Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive tried searching, but i cant really find the answer. can someone tell me roughly how much a standard r33 gtr incooler can support up to??

Im going in for a tune and im hoping to see around 360kws. should i upgrade before the tune or should it be fine?

Thanks

well i was thinking if anyone would know if itll be fine for 360 it would be people who have seen 360 and shot way past it :P

If it was so good he wouldnt have replaced it for a Greddy one in his 360kw 33 that his selling, the cooler wasnt designed for those power levels and you cant argue that it is 100% efficient. It might do the job but its not going to do it as good as a bigger unit.

Anyways not going to stir the pot, 400kw you will be hearing from me soon :P

Edited by nomnomv8

lol - I didn't replace it, it came with the car. I wouldn't waste my money on one.

We actually thought it was stock until 6 months after when I had it on a hoist/front bar off etc - given results/performance were no different to stock cooler equipped examples.

I could give you a list of cars making 380-400rwkw on stock coolers if you like? no issues at all.

lol - I didn't replace it, it came with the car. I wouldn't waste my money on one.

We actually thought it was stock until 6 months after when I had it on a hoist/front bar off etc - given results/performance were no different to stock cooler equipped examples.

I could give you a list of cars making 380-400rwkw on stock coolers if you like? no issues at all.

Yes please

lol - I didn't replace it, it came with the car. I wouldn't waste my money on one.

We actually thought it was stock until 6 months after when I had it on a hoist/front bar off etc - given results/performance were no different to stock cooler equipped examples.

I could give you a list of cars making 380-400rwkw on stock coolers if you like? no issues at all.

So it's proven that a standard cooler can support big power, but would a big dollar brand name one be more efficient and help to make more/earlier power?

Personal choice at the end of the day.

I wouldn't run that much power with a stock cooler and nor would I run aftermarket bov's.

Ive always based my choice on what the majority have done with their cars.

This will turn into a heated debate so let's leave it at that :)

So it's proven that a standard cooler can support big power, but would a big dollar brand name one be more efficient and help to make more/earlier power?

We actually thought it was stock until 6 months after when I had it on a hoist/front bar off etc - given results/performance were no different to stock cooler equipped examples.

My power, temps are no different with a GReddy core (that I didn't know I had). Guess you missed that post.

But spend big if you want on the 'big mark up' Jap items that are coming outta China at the end of the day anyway. Look forward to reading your testing and if you see any temp differences at the circuit, i didn't.

I mean I know for a fact a few local Aus 'brands' have been ex-China for over 4 years. That's another argument entirely however :)

I mean I know for a fact a few local Aus 'brands' have been ex-China for over 4 years. That's another argument entirely however :)

yup i like the "brands" vs china debates they always make me giggle.

I have a spare plasmaman cooler which is a real work of art.

Has to be better than the HDI cooler which was fitted to my gtr when.I bought it back?

Ash, have u heard much about plasma man? They charge a bomb but very nice quality and they do make them onsite :)

My power, temps are no different with a GReddy core (that I didn't know I had). Guess you missed that post.

But spend big if you want on the 'big mark up' Jap items that are coming outta China at the end of the day anyway. Look forward to reading your testing and if you see any temp differences at the circuit, i didn't.

I mean I know for a fact a few local Aus 'brands' have been ex-China for over 4 years. That's another argument entirely however :)

Its not China its worse..Thailand !! Well at least one major Japanese manufacturer has gear made there.

My power, temps are no different with a GReddy core (that I didn't know I had).

What where the dimensions of your GReddy cooler?

Personal choice at the end of the day.

I wouldn't run that much power with a stock cooler and nor would I run aftermarket bov's.

Ive always based my choice on what the majority have done with their cars.

This will turn into a heated debate so let's leave it at that :)

This.

People are forgetting that coolers are basically a heat sink, a heat sink that's in this case 20 years old and was designed to cater for "206kw" at the fly... not almost double that at the wheels!

Common sense, a cooler thats 600 x 300 with a depth of 60mm does not have more volume than a cooler thats the same dimensions and 100mm thick and at those power levels mentioned you have to have rocks in your brain not to realise that. Look at the Nismo coolers for example I guess that their engineers are dumwits and idiots not knowing that their 100mm thick coolers are useless because some nobody from a workshop in Australia said so.

The point im trying to make is when you have already spent $10,000+ to get your 360kw+ car you think that you would do it right and invest that couple of hundred more after selling your uber cool OEM GTR cooler to a GTS-T owner..

Each to their own I guess, il do things the way they work for me, everyone is entitled to an opinion and while my opinion might be seen as "worthless spending" so be it, rather that than do what i believe is stupid and goes behind any engineering principle

I got my results with 2/3 of a standard 76mm Greddy cooler. A full one would be fine for 400kw, so would a stock GTR one as proven already. Why change what doesn't need changing is most peoples opinion.

As with stock/aftermarket radiators, thick coolers aren't as efficient at cooling as the back of it is always seeing warm air, plus you pay the lag penalty most cant afford at this power.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map".
    • What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought.  
    • For me there is a massive difference in manufacturer or big brand crippled android (Sony, Kenwood etc) vs the sort of thing I've installed here, which is basically just a tablet in DIN form factor with open Android, and the other model of course is mirroring - Android Auto/Carplay. I hate the locked down manufacturer and AA options where they decide what apps I'm allowed to install, including the Launcher but also importantly things like Ecutek (for this car) or Real Dash (Stagea) are not supported. Plus those crippled versions tend to be slower due to both overheads and lower spec hardware. On the other hand, when this breaks I'll likely be in trouble for support....but how is that different to owning an Infiniti anyway
    • Yeah, Duncan is helping sell me back to Android devices. I've hated the whole Android head units due to their speed issues. Even in my old Hyundai Kona (2022 model), it behind the scenes was Android, and slow and shitty to start up. Once running wasn't bad, but still a good 15 to 30 seconds.
    • My roof rails are off atm on the E39 until the rust is fixed. I did find another little bit of surface rust under the rails when I took them off. As @soviet_merlin said I'd just leave them alone unless you're planning on ensuring they're properly sealed. I was on the fence about leaving them off as the delete is still a thing in BMW E39's but I feel like the car is missing something (er, it is, der) with them off and I'm looking forward to putting them back on.
×
×
  • Create New...