Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's being built to circiut, 3deg camber on front and 2.5 rear

Nice im building mine for same application and ocasional strip run . I want to look more into setting upnfor camber I am putting the gk teck camber arms in rear any particular adivice on the way to set it up ? I know its prob wrong thread pm me if you want :)

Went to the drags tonight

Car weighed in at 1661kgs plus 108kgs for me

And with a less then Ideal run it ran 10.88 @ 132.23mph on 24psi and was politely asked to GTFO :)

Congrats Mick :) What was the 60'? And what tyres + size?

My R33 weighed 1760 with me in it (102kg) Didn't think they were that heavy!

Mine weighed in at 1580 kg. Only weight oust of it was wheel, jack and boot interior. Where is the extra weight coming from? 80 odd Kgs doesn't exactly hide under a seat.

Must be that fuel pump, Mick ;).

Congrats Mick :) What was the 60'? And what tyres + size?

My R33 weighed 1760 with me in it (102kg) Didn't think they were that heavy!

Thanks mate, Toyo TQs in 255/?/16s, haha I forgot the profile

1760 is about the same, mine is 1770 with my fat arse in it

Mine weighed in at 1580 kg. Only weight oust of it was wheel, jack and boot interior. Where is the extra weight coming from? 80 odd Kgs doesn't exactly hide under a seat.

Must be that fuel pump, Mick ;).

9ltr surge tank and a 7kg pump, all new line with original ones still there, two amps and the woofers for the front splits are 5kgs each, RB30 half grout filled plus a heap of other, it all adds up :(

The R32 is either 1408 or 1480, can't remember

I too can't do without a good sound system, must be the wog coming out of me

Thanks mate, Toyo TQs in 255/?/16s, haha I forgot the profile

1760 is about the same, mine is 1770 with my fat arse in it

9ltr surge tank and a 7kg pump, all new line with original ones still there, two amps and the woofers for the front splits are 5kgs each, RB30 half grout filled plus a heap of other, it all adds up :(

The R32 is either 1408 or 1480, can't remember

  • Like 1

It's being built to circiut, 3deg camber on front and 2.5 rear

Have you tracked it with these settings yet? I'm at about 4deg front and 1.5deg rear. I think I need more at the front but have not really looked into the rear as much.

Mine is full interior but no stereo, hicas, air con or spare wheel/boot lining and weighs 1430ish kg without driver and 1/4 of a tank of fuel so there is a lot of scope for your car to lose some weight

I wouldn't think you'd want more than 1.5 degrees out back with over 400kw would you? It'd just be bake city every time you put your foot down.

It's a balance between grip in a straight line and grip in a corner, if you grip more in a corner you get on the straight going faster which means less chance of wheelspin.

In saying that, warm r-comps don't really spin at all in a straight line

Thanks Zebra

I too can't do without a good sound system, must be the wog coming out of me

I'm a Kiwi and buggered if I'm going drive around with no tunes, so its not just a wog thing :)

Have you tracked it with these settings yet? I'm at about 4deg front and 1.5deg rear. I think I need more at the front but have not really looked into the rear as much.

Mine is full interior but no stereo, hicas, air con or spare wheel/boot lining and weighs 1430ish kg without driver and 1/4 of a tank of fuel so there is a lot of scope for your car to lose some weight

I have but the tyres I had on it where crap, Faulken semi craps lol, these setting working pretty good with them, when I change the rear lower control arms I will knock it back to 2deg

The R34 is heavier then the 32 from the get go, and given it is suppose to be a street car I'm not to worried about weight, when I first bough it the old owner had completely striped it out and it weighed 1480kgs, I raced it the day after I brought it and weighed it then before putting it back together

Michael, I agree with what Simon said :)

I got a couple of kiwi mates, they think they're rappers when on the piss haha, top blokes though

Haha yeah that sounds about right, I'm from Irish heritage, so no rapping from me :D

Cheers Pete, load of fun getting it off the line :D, can't wait to try and get it out of a corner

Thanks mate, Toyo TQs in 255/?/16s, haha I forgot the profile

1760 is about the same, mine is 1770 with my fat arse in it

9ltr surge tank and a 7kg pump, all new line with original ones still there, two amps and the woofers for the front splits are 5kgs each, RB30 half grout filled plus a heap of other, it all adds up :(

The R32 is either 1408 or 1480, can't remember

What wheels were on the R34? I thought 16's wouldn't fit over the brakes on 33's and 34s?

I went 11.5@126 with a 1.81 sixty foot. Only mods were -5's and fuel + ECU upgrade making 327rwkw and 19" tyres.

How were you launching yours?

What wheels were on the R34? I thought 16's wouldn't fit over the brakes on 33's and 34s?

I went 11.5@126 with a 1.81 sixty foot. Only mods were -5's and fuel + ECU upgrade making 327rwkw and 19" tyres.

How were you launching yours?

Factory R32 16s, with 20mm spacers and a quick grind off the ridge of the caliper and they fit with like .5mm clearance :D

I ran last week with 275/35/19s and couldn't get more then 128mph, the Toyos stand 1" lower in OD the the 19s I have, I have 265/35/18 hankook semis I have to get rims for and they are smaller in diameter again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...