Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ash did the GoPro have the full back on it or the one with holes, was the rubber seal in there?

There is a firmware update for the GoPro which allows you to record automatically once the camera is turned on, which is great for getting around the double press and moving into photo mode which was a pain.

Contour will sync with iPhone as well now.

GoPro has an expansion pack for LCD screen, can use on the HD and HD:2 and an extended battery. I've used the LCD pack it's great. Though does increase the weight of the camera...Though I did use it on the back of the car around Winton as it was find.

It was Simon's... There was a rubber seal around the internals of the case itself. So it was the waterproof one.

Was a HD2 IIRC. Not sure about holes on the back or not, didn't take notice.

The Contour might sync with a iPhone, but they didn't sync with Android like Contours very own App claims it does :)

GoPro

and POV

Damn you Ash, posting between my two posts. I was just trying to show 3 vids of the same car using different cameras in pretty difficult situations

AND , what is it with SAU not liking youtubes one day, but fine the next? I am missing something?

You're dead right about YouTube dumbing-down HD footage Roy.

I watch RadCam or GoPro HD footage on my 50" TV beautifully, but when I watch the same footage via YouTube (uploaded in HD), on the very same TV, it's rotten.

New update fixes the youtube problem... its a forum code issue.

Also you have to upload to YouTube in hd in a certain format or they compress it to the shit and even 'hd' fails miserably

I've just googled up a bit of a discussion in a forum concerning the external mic ability that the Gopro 2 HD Hero has (since i'm strongly considering purchasing one).

http://forums.corvet...o-hd-hero2.html

They get a bit in depth with the whole mono/stereo thing but one individual provides an interesting solution and results, the external mic he used is the Audio Technica Pro24CM which with a long enough extension cable can be run just about anywhere in your vehicle and provides a considerable upgrade in audio quality when compared to the previously posted videos.

The last video he post's at the bottom of the first page is the money video.

Here's some tips for best format for the tube.

Codec: H.264 or quicktime MOV

Bitrate: at least the same rate as the original, typically around 10,000 Kb/sec for 1080P and 8,000 Kb/sec for 720P

Framerate: 25 or 30 FPS to match the original framerate. If recorded at 50 or 60 frames per sec, then convert to 25 or 30 respectively as youtube only plays in 30fps maximum.

Use MPEG streamclip to quickly trim video with no quality loss or AVS Video Editor or Avid Studio for more complex editing.

Here's some video using these settings. Set to 1080P for best results

If you put the GoPro inside the car and have the correct back on it, no problems. If you use the water proof back you will hear sweet FA! If you don't have the back with holes with you, just take the seal off the back and it helps a little.

As for video quality, the GoPro is much better than the Contour in every way.

If you want too youtube, pay for an editor. I use Premier Elements.

This is a 1080p clip taken from the back of the car, with the water proof back on.

[/url]

This is on the side in the wind, with the audio tweaked a little, with the water proof back on.

http://www.youtube.c...BGONkbnOEY&hd=1

Same position with the Contour

http://www.youtube.c...Pyy6oO0leM&hd=1

I've watched some of that YouTube footage on a 60" 1080p TV and it was better IQ than most of the stuff you see in TV here in Aus.

  • 2 months later...



Just to add another brand in the mix - The AIM Smartycam is not a bad piece of kit.

Upsides are:
1. If you have a digital dash - especially an AIM one but will interface with most types - it will pick up data (both from dash and ECU connected to dash) in real time and overlay it for you over your video. No messy software work when you get home. Use their easy to use SmartyManager software to configure your display. Can also get loom to connect to most ECU's and can display a vast amount of data on-screen if you wish. (I had upgraded firmware in this video and neglected to set the brake parameter correctly so this is why it's not showing on this video)
2. Has in-built GPS and 3-axis accelerometer so picks up speed and G's (I don't have speed sensing in my car so I use the Smartycam to feed road speed to the dash) This allows you to create GPS track map but unfortunately only if have a logging dash. Will however do lap timing in stand-alone mode via setting GPS beacon position.
3. Will auto turn on and off (via programmable speed sensing) so no effort is needed in this department. Important in a race situation as there's enough to do without remembering to turn your camera on, especially if it's hard to reach from your seat.
4. Cable that connects to dash also provides power so no battery to worry about.
5. Can be used in stand-alone mode or interfacing with dash/ecu. If in stand-alone mode uses in built rechargeable battery which seems to last well 3hrs is claimed). Is reasonably compact considering how powerful it's functions and simply mounts via rollbar mount or suction cup mount or various other mounts.
6. Reasonable sound quality - newer versions do allow for use of external microphone which may help further or give option of intercom pickup.
7. Picture quality is pretty good. (Though not HD)
8. Records onto MicroSD that slots into back of unit. As you can get 32GB cards now, one card will easily do a day's racing (especially with it's auto on/off feature)

Downsides:
1. Probably mainly cost. (I've had it now for a few years and can't remember exact price locallly but is $999 on Ebay from US). For this reason I'd be reluctant to hang it outside the car.
2. GPS feature won't allow stand-alone track mapping which is a shame. May appear in future updates?

I have a ChaseCam system fitted in the car as well (pointing rearwards) and this is OK but is not as functional or does it provide as good quality video as the SmartyCam. Edited by Nissanmania

there is a full HD camera in this weeks Big W catalog for $78, can't find it on the web site but with the price of a half decent camera around $300 now with all the bells and whistles if you are putting a camera in the car why not just buy something like this?

Did a search and this seems to be some video from the $78 one from Big W

really unimpressed with the Radcam I have - if you lose power without turning off the video, the resulting file is corrupted. I lost 2/3 of the runs on the weekend, including the quickest ones.

Radcam fail, buy something else.

really unimpressed with the Radcam I have - if you lose power without turning off the video, the resulting file is corrupted. I lost 2/3 of the runs on the weekend, including the quickest ones.

Radcam fail, buy something else.

I had the same issue with my first Radcam. It died on me and the replacement has worked fine...inc not saving files when power/battery drops out. The batteries seem to take forever to charge and no time to die. I have two batteries, one works far better then the others. I know your frustration. I have lost laps at Spa, drive through Stelvio Pass in the Cossie...worst thing is battery says full, then 10mins later is dead and file corrupted. If the battery indicator was 1/3 then i would understand...but meh...my replacement unit works miles better than my original radcam

It's funny you guys mention that issue.

Mine used to be fine, but last time I used it, I had the EXACT same issue of the battery all of a sudden dying and losing the file that was being recorded.

Super shameful as it was footage I'd been chasing all day of a 70ft racing Trimaran flying two of it's hulls in the Brisbane to Gladstone yacht race.

To say I was pissed is an understatement!

hmmm saved some of both files with this. http://grauonline.de/cmsimple2_6/en/?Solutions:HD_Video_Repair_Utility Still pretty damn annoying.

Interesting that some people are having no trouble with their units....I paid more and bought locally, so I might see if the seller can help resolve the issue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...