Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is there any truth to the fact that the HKS turbos use a steel bearing race vs the Garrets using plastic?

I'm modding up a pair of -5 garrett's at the moment, bought a lathe and measured up the stock nylon bearing cages.

Made some new cages from brass rod (there are different grades) and after a few attempts finally got 4 ready to go.

In the process of pulling the turbo's I'm going to use apart, fit the cages and fit to my car :)

Quite a fiddly and precise job!

post-12712-0-23731200-1389777273_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

If your talking about the car I think you are, it went in another dyno and made 312kw

if this is in reference to my car's run at unigroup dyno day, there are a few factors that contributed to the low reading

1. it was boiling hot! the 370ish that was made was in winter on a cold night compared to a 38 degree day. Even Yavuz mentioned that the car's he tuned were making 10-15kw less

2. the aftermarket BOVs were stuffed and were causing a boost leak, which Yavuz could hear as well.

I ran 11.7 @ 118mph with leaking bovs too actually so there was def a drop in power

I took it back to powertune a few days later and it made 330kw with the same problem

the BOVs have now been fixed (currently has no BOVs actually)

last dyno run was around 355kw mark which as mentioned above seems to be the limit of -9s

I want to put new BOVs back on soon and see if i I can get back to that magical 370kw it once made... will need perfect conditions i would have thought

if this is in reference to my car's run at unigroup dyno day, there are a few factors that contributed to the low reading

1. it was boiling hot! the 370ish that was made was in winter on a cold night compared to a 38 degree day. Even Yavuz mentioned that the car's he tuned were making 10-15kw less

2. the aftermarket BOVs were stuffed and were causing a boost leak, which Yavuz could hear as well.

I ran 11.7 @ 118mph with leaking bovs too actually so there was def a drop in power

I took it back to powertune a few days later and it made 330kw with the same problem

the BOVs have now been fixed (currently has no BOVs actually)

last dyno run was around 355kw mark which as mentioned above seems to be the limit of -9s

I want to put new BOVs back on soon and see if i I can get back to that magical 370kw it once made... will need perfect conditions i would have thought

Very nice power figures for -9s. Do you have a build thread?

if this is in reference to my car's run at unigroup dyno day, there are a few factors that contributed to the low reading

1. it was boiling hot! the 370ish that was made was in winter on a cold night compared to a 38 degree day. Even Yavuz mentioned that the car's he tuned were making 10-15kw less

2. the aftermarket BOVs were stuffed and were causing a boost leak, which Yavuz could hear as well.

I ran 11.7 @ 118mph with leaking bovs too actually so there was def a drop in power

I took it back to powertune a few days later and it made 330kw with the same problem

the BOVs have now been fixed (currently has no BOVs actually)

last dyno run was around 355kw mark which as mentioned above seems to be the limit of -9s

I want to put new BOVs back on soon and see if i I can get back to that magical 370kw it once made... will need perfect conditions i would have thought

Is that E85??

I'm making 350kw -9s on 98 I maybe going to e85 this year and see what they can push

Probably find you won't make anymore Nick, guessing yours are falling over above 7000-7500rpm like everyone else in the boost/airflow department?

What you will get though is midrange. You can jam more boost in the mid range... That said I was running 23-24psi @ about 4000rpm on 98 that then fell back to 17-18psi (as turbos ran outta flow) over 7000rpm.

Probably find you won't make anymore Nick, guessing yours are falling over above 7000-7500rpm like everyone else in the boost/airflow department?

What you will get though is midrange. You can jam more boost in the mid range... That said I was running 23-24psi @ about 4000rpm on 98 that then fell back to 17-18psi (as turbos ran outta flow) over 7000rpm.

Thats what i was thinking Ash, Thats right they do start to fall over there, half the time on track im shifting at 7000-7500 as they do run out of puff in the higher rpms

A fatter midrange on track would be good and all the cooling benefits of e85 blah blah lol

Hi there has anyone had any experience with using water methanol injection setup.

I have heard some great power gains with these kits but I'm after hard evidence before I consider installing one to my GTR.

I'm running -9s on 98 Ron making 340RWKW.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Dave.

Hi there has anyone had any experience with using water methanol injection setup.

I have heard some great power gains with these kits but I'm after hard evidence before I consider installing one to my GTR.

I'm running -9s on 98 Ron making 340RWKW.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Dave.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/396164-lets-talk-water-meth-injection/

  • Like 1

Is that E85??

I'm making 350kw -9s on 98 I maybe going to e85 this year and see what they can push

yes, mine is on e85, however my motor is stock.... only work apart from injectors is a metal headgasket, stock cams and head are probably holding back some power.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

having read this thread in its entirety over the last 24 hours.. i have a few comments.

firstly: people need to fking read a thread if they are going to post on it.. there must have been 30 times the question is asked "are GT-SS the same as -9's" when it was answered 8 pages earlier..

secondly: its close minded to beleive that just because all you want is instant response in a car and that someone else is dumb for not agreeing with you, or will regret not going that option down the track. people are different. peoples tastes are different. and its their right to decide what they like.. maybe it hasnt occured some that there are people who own a fast car who enjoy the rush when boost kicks in hard at 4.5-5k and they want that in their daily, because thats what they like. And they're prepared to put up with a bit of unresponsiveness. Its their prerogative to do so.

further; by saying "that setup is just going to get you to lose your license" is not exaclty a valid argument. so will doing 60 in a 50 zone, if you get caught enough times. pretty well every car on the road has the capacity to have you lose your license if you drive like a tool. Maybe the owner takes the freeway home from work and hauls ass up to 100 in second on the on ramp, and thats how he deals with the stress of life. who knows.

rant over.

im still undecided between -9s and -5s for my turbo replacement, after my tune with r32 N1s which are very lazy (max boost around 5k) they need to go! and i figure since im used to them taking their sweet ass time to come on perhaps -5s are the go for future upgradability higher top end and bearable lag. it just seems to me that there needs to be a set to bridge the -5/-9 gap..

on a side note has anyone ever used twin 2860rs's? their flow map looks like it has a more usable spread then the -5's with slightly lower peak flow.

Dan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...