Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sounds nice.Throw some pics up if you have any! :)  

But I have to say,what's with all these RB's in DR30s????? :confused:

now now boys just because we thought of it first don't get pissed :cheers: .

remember my car had no engine when i bought it 2 years ago, so all i had as a referance was the 6 cylinder mr30 hatch i was driving at the time. then i found that web site kev's r30 or something which was the only info site i'd found back then.... anyone read it? that test drive section was what gave me the idea of putting in the rb20det and the rb20 just looks good when i lift the bonnet now thats its painted... :ghost:

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guys, I have a dumped DR30 white with an RB20DET.  It has a Link computer and WAW zenner wheels 16" with 225/50 tyres.  It has a big selby sway bar on the front and the lower control arms extended by 7/8" as told to do by datsun performance centre.  Handles like a champ.

I have 2 probs though and I'll ask for help in the other sections.

Great to see some others that share the ecstacy of the DR30.

just a quick question dude. was your car for sale on ebay at all? welcome to the old school... :cheers:

Hey, I don't want to over estimate power and look like a tool. I'll give you the specs and you tell me what you think it is

RB20DET ECCS (silver top ) standard power was 162KW running 8psi

Standard R32 GTS intercooler (just picked up a supra one for $84)

K&N ram pod (sucking hot air)

3" mandrel bent exhaust

Link engine management (no lamda sensor)

14.5 psi max boost from 3200 to 7000 rpm (unless it screws up like it has been)

GTR sticker (only joking)

Dont know if anything else has been done to it but I assumed these mods would give at least 25kw therefore giving me 250 hp. Once I have the supra IC it should run to 15psi easily and tuned with cold air should apparently give me 300hp.

If I am wrong let me know

Hey,  I don't want to over estimate power and look like a tool.  I'll give you the specs and you tell me what you think it is

RB20DET ECCS (silver top ) standard power was 162KW running 8psi

Standard R32 GTS intercooler (just picked up a supra one for $84)

K&N ram pod (sucking hot air)

3" mandrel bent exhaust

Link engine management (no lamda sensor)

14.5 psi max boost from 3200 to 7000 rpm (unless it screws up like it has been)

GTR sticker (only joking)

Dont know if anything else has been done to it but I assumed these mods would give at least 25kw therefore giving me 250 hp.  Once I have the supra IC it should run to 15psi easily and tuned with cold air should apparently give me 300hp.

If I am wrong let me know

going by what i know on the rb20det and power upgrades, with the standard fmic your using at the moment thats what will be keeping the power down, the supra cooler may not be any more help than the standard r32 one?

now the power output of a standard rb20det is 205hp at the fly wheel about 160rwhp. with the intercooler done and everything else you've got the most you can expect would be around the 160rwkw/215rwhp sort of mark as thats the limit of the turbo, try a rb25 turbo and that should get the 250rwhp figure you want.... :)

What page is it on?  

I was hoping for 300 fly wheel horse power with the Supra FMIC, Jaustech use to have the same set up but a modified computer rather than the link was the only thing different.

found it on page 11 post #275 bottom of the page

yeah they claimed 250hp don't know if that was at the fly or rw? at the fly 215rwhp/160rwkw would be close to 300hp, i've got a mate running a supra cooler in a rb20 powered r31 and its just not cutting it cooling wise. LOL

That's mine!! I sodded off the original wheels. I haggled the guy down to about 6k for it.

I thought it was a DR30 although I don't know what the difference is between and HR30 is (I thought the MR30 was the sedan HR30 was the Hatch) but yeah now looking at it you can tell it is a HR30 with bumpers, bonnet etc of a DR30 (you can tell by the tail lights.

They are only 250hp but they are only running 8psi, I am running 14.5 psi. So how much is a PSI worth in HP.

doesnt work like that ... depends on many other factors mainly effeciency range of the turbo and the heat generated by the turbo.

basically after a certain point (for ur turbo, 250hp flywheel) more boost simply overspins the turbo and generates heat. thus the inlet air is just too hot and no more power is made. this happens alot on stock turbos.

14.5 is pretty much 1bar isnt it. thats probably as much as you'd want to put through that turbo before u blow it haha and even if u ran about 13-13.5psi itd probably make very much the same power but with less stress on the turbo.

the rating for the turbo such as 250hp for ur rb20 one is the maximum power that the turbo can support when at maximum efficiency. ur probably right on that with 1bar boost, if not a touch over coz it is ceramic wheel and doesnt like too much boost/heat.

now now boys just because we thought of it first don't get pissed  :P .

remember my car had no engine when i bought it 2 years ago, so all i had as a referance was the 6 cylinder mr30 hatch i was driving at the time. then i found that web site kev's r30 or something which was the only info site i'd found back then.... anyone read it? that test drive section was what gave me the idea of putting in the rb20det and the rb20 just looks good when i lift the bonnet now thats its painted... :ghost:

:Oops: Oh no,we've been sprung! Not!! :D haha.I'm actually chucking out my RB20 and replacing it with an FJ!

In the end,it doesn't really matter,as long as our cars go hard!! Personally,I'd prefer to keep a DR30 FJ powered....HR30's are a bit different though :)

Doctor 30,the DR30's and HR30's are basicly the same car,but the DR's came out with the FJ20,whereas the HR's had an L series straight 6.(L20ET)

Yeah I figure that but now I look a bit of a dick with the doctor 30 user name driving an HR. :P

Looks like I'm going to be buying another turbo. What is a good CHEAP upgrade turbo that will bolt straight up and give me 300 horses (I know I am dreaming, I'll probably have to replace a heap of stuff)

But at least I am not full of crap about the estimated power.

Haha,don't worry about it! Check out my user name,and I drive an HR31.... :P

As for CHEAP turbo's for 300HP that bolt straight up......I think you'll have to modify oil/water lines at least.If you mean 300flywheel,maybe an RB25 unit? 2nd hand hi-flow T3,or maybe an old school T3/4.....

Yeah I figure that but now I look a bit of a dick with the doctor 30 user name driving an HR. :P

Looks like I'm going to be buying another turbo.  What is a good CHEAP upgrade turbo that will bolt straight up and give me 300 horses (I know I am dreaming, I'll probably have to replace a heap of stuff)

But at least I am not full of crap about the estimated power.

its all good mate you've got the best of both worlds there with your car, for starters the hr is around 100kg lighter than the dr, your car has the updated dr front so its got the look, you should be very close to the flywheel 300hp your looking for, the ecu, boost level, 3" zorst and fmic should be good for 30rwkw/40rwhp lets say 65-70 fly hp so that and the 215hp you started with. who knows maybe new plugs and a rutune might just get you there.

As the car is engineered it was put on the weighbridge and was 1100kg . I am only looking for 300hp at the flywheel. That is enough bragging rights against most cars on the road

Once I've fitted the supra IC I'll get it dyno tuned and see what happens. (Oh yeah and when I fix my drive shafts which are very rooted)

ive heard DR30's have a mechanical LSD standard? is this true? mine sorta feels abit like that but its quite worn out and goes 1 wheel alot so it needs a rebuild ... but if its already mechanical i can just get my current diff rebuilt wen i find the money.

anyone shed some light on if it is definately mechanical or viscous type? and im guessing it'd be 1.5way LSD correct?

i guess thier not adj camber tops with yours then?? thats what i was getting at as ghostrider was saying that to fit them to the r30 the front tops have to be revericed to fit the r30 towers which then means you get +chamber rather than -  :cheers:

yeh theyre adjustable, the stud pattern is just reversed, but they still work, i can dial in -8 degrees, it looks ridiculous!! :)

']ive heard DR30's have a mechanical LSD standard? is this true? mine sorta feels abit like that but its quite worn out and goes 1 wheel alot so it needs a rebuild ... but if its already mechanical i can just get my current diff rebuilt wen i find the money.

anyone shed some light on if it is definately mechanical or viscous type? and im guessing it'd be 1.5way LSD correct?

Yes they are a mechanical diff.I've heard the HR31 is a 2 way mech stock,but can't confirm that.I guess the '30s would be the same...?

thats cool. 2 way stock hey thats some hardcore drift action straight out of the factory haha :) have to look into rebuilding mine some time then. sweet. =]

rsx84 - yahoo japan has cars for auction. im not sure of exact address however if you search with Google and put Yahoo Auctions, im pretty sure the first or 2nd result on the list is Yahoo Japan auctions. it has a search box in the top left, and you just enter whatever into there. and it brings your results up. i was looking thru it at dr30's the other day :rofl: all in japanese though :cheers:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
    • Thanks for that, hadn’t used my brain enough to think about that. 
    • Also playing with fire if they start to flow more air down low than what the stock twins can. It's not even up top you need to worry, it can be at 3000rpm and part throttle and it's getting way more flow than it should.
    • Any G40/1000 or G40/1250 results out there?  
    • You still want a proper tune on the stock ECU though. Stock tune + stock ECU with GT-SS/-9s is probably playing with fire if you're running more than stock airflow/power.
×
×
  • Create New...