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Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


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Ive now got the ART43SS(the original one) fitted onto my car. Currently untuned but this thing sounds so nice, and deep not like the standard turbo. You can definitely feel the low down difference but thats not to say its bad. By about 2900rpmish I was already making about 10psi on the 17psi actuator and held that for about a few more thou rpm. Felt nice, sounds VERY different. Even the exhaust note is different. The flutter when backing off throttle is awesome. Cant wait for this f**king rain to piss off so I can get it tuned! Will report back with my dyno and my review! EXCITEMENT!

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Thanks for the feed back on the SS-2. Please run a BOV (just in case you are not) and reduce the “surge dose” to minimum as it could damage the comp wheel and shaft on high boost.

While tuning please make sure it has at least 3inch hard intake pipe with pod, unrestrictive cooler and exhaust.

I've posted the timing and fuel map of it on my car in page 75. Please print those and take them to your tuner as reference. Should be able to replicate my result with those data.

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We have a 3" hard pipe all the way to the connector to the AFM and then an Apexi power intake filter. Running a genuine hybrid intercooler with a HKS exhaust. Just need to sort out my cat as it is currently standard.

Did you use the standard r33 blow off valve and did it hold boost well? I just need a pipe to connect my BOV back to my return.

Also my boost controller(profec B spec 2) is playing up now. The lo icon in the top of the screen is flashing and this only started since I installed the turbo. I don't know whats going on there....

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with the exhaust if its got a stock cat you would likely to have a 2.5 flange on the ends of the pipes, Please make sure all exhaust plumbing are in 3 inches.

Mine held boost pretty well, I didn't had issues. I don't know much about th EBCs, I think manual boost controller worked best.

As for the BOV please check this page:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=261613&view=findpost&p=5190870

thats how its setup on mine

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I will probably get a new EBC if this one is not working. I will try the standard setup and Ive got another BOV to fit on if I need to.

Ive got a 3" bellmouth dump pipe with 3" flanges and 3" to 3.5" HKS exhaust. I will get the tuner to gut my cat or fit a high flow cat during tuning.

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Its all talk till I see the graphs. :P

I havent heard of anything other than shipping the ecu over to Japan for a guess-flash. I was hoping there would be a better option by now, considering im about to push for 350+

HPF 100% do it i saw some 350z graphs, saw some gains so i presume its legit.

I have a turbo vq35 coming in 2 months so i need a solution before then :P

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I really wish he did. unfortunately he did not get back to me ever since. He also stuffed my 300ZX during a turbo change last year for the ATR25 development that coasted me $6G to get it back to working order, he tried to make up for it back then. How ever he did do few good less complex jobs as most people I referred him on turbo changes are satisfied with his work.

I believe there are two types of business/trades people:

1. People whom are using his/her skills doing their best to benefit the broad society.

2. People whom are using his/her skills doing what they could to benefit him/her self.

As the manager I feel I must have the knowledge and responsibility to ensure our customers receive the full benefit of our produces, be responsible and supportive to customer's needs regardless if the deal resulted in profit or lose. Same rule applies to my engineering team, and my tuners. Every job must be done properly to suit its purposes.

people whom are irresponsibility for their work / products cares only for their own benefits are not the type of people that we want to deal or work with.

Graph is on the dynosheet section:

http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__5847954

I believe Toshi have done great jobs and well proven by his results. Personally I would still prefer to get my tune done on a dyno by an experienced tuner. I have meet a ford engineer, been told that all XR6 / 8 ECUs are individually adjusted to suit specific engines as data sent from individual sensors varies.

hey Stao we are talking vq motors not rb25 :P

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At moment not. Only done 2 sets this year with stock actuators and the owners all seemed to be the install and drive it type. I've been told they feels nice but not sure how much power they are making with all the stock gears. No one has made any complaints. In theory both of those should be maxing towards 500HP as a simultaneous twin.

I'm building ATR43SS-1 for the DIY project will have it finished with some photos soon.

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At moment not. Only done 2 sets this year with stock actuators and the owners all seemed to be the install and drive it type. I've been told they feels nice but not sure how much power they are making with all the stock gears. No one has made any complaints. In theory both of those should be maxing towards 500HP as a simultaneous twin.

I'm building ATR43SS-1 for the DIY project will have it finished with some photos soon.

Cool

Are you able to do anything with the stock CHRA's? or is there no choice but to use the GT28s?

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Where would I get one of these oil-lines you are using for the feed?

FEED

Those are braided hose half meter long with straight hose tail on one end and a 90 degrees hose tail on the other. You can generally buy from any hyduralic hose places. The engine fitting is M12x1.25 and the turbo fitting depending on the thread that the builder has drill.

Cool

Are you able to do anything with the stock CHRA's? or is there no choice but to use the GT28s?

We use ATR28G1 CHRAs which is equivalent to a 2860RS-5. Need different bearings, different sized shafts and etc, probably cost more to fit them all into factory bearing housing. New lines are required fitting them back into the car.

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Fair enough, was trying to get away with the factory lines because they are a huge pain to get to even as factory, cant imagine what it would be like trying to tighten water feeds on the sides that face the block.

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Those are braided hose half meter long with straight hose tail on one end and a 90 degrees hose tail on the other. You can generally buy from any hyduralic hose places. The engine fitting is M12x1.25 and the turbo fitting depending on the thread that the builder has drill.

Thank you, much appreciated - really!

I noticed from your 'fit yourself guide' that the water lines do not fit straight on.

Is loosening the brackets enough to make them fit, or would one need new water lines for this?

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You find the water lines are about 5mms behind. The chassis side is pretty easy to reach, For the long one comming behind the engine, There are 2x brackets holding it on to the head, you see it if you trace it back, once they've been released that line would move pretty freely. and that will fit.

Add: Took few photos of the high flowed M35 Stega turbos. They are off a smaller combination then the usual 21U and OP6 units for better on road response working with factory Auto.

front.jpg

rear.jpg

Thank you, much appreciated - really!

I noticed from your 'fit yourself guide' that the water lines do not fit straight on.

Is loosening the brackets enough to make them fit, or would one need new water lines for this?

This mainly applies to the SS-1 units as they bearing housing setup is very different. High flowed units using generic T3 bearing housings are lot easier to fit factory water lines with.

But either there are no issues using factory water lines.

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Continuing with the SS-1 Installation. I've got all the parts for the SS-1 machined and made today. Took 7 hours labor to have all the bits machined, welded and touched to spec. For some people the outer appearance might be considered "rough", from engineering point of view I think its a work of art. All pressures are carried out suiting their building purpose.

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SS-1's CHRA is in:

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I'm sitting it up on a dummy manifold first to ensure the comp housing clears:

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Comp housing is now fitted with actuator angle adjusted

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Fitting on the stock dump pipe:

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The L pipe that goes from the out let of the turbo to factory cooler piping is a 90 degrees 2 to 2.5 inch reducer, I would prefer if you can get the long leg reducers. Mine is a short leg which needes a small piece of 2.5inch metal extender.

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I would like to run a 4inch metal intake pipe, To fit that on to the 3inch inlet you can either run a 45 degrees 3 to 4 inch reducer or install a hard rubber sleeve. My intake pipe is made out from a 45 degrees 4inches hose, with a 40cm long 4inches metal pipe and a $10 pod filter from Auto baron.

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PMs replied. Cheers.

Since the illustration car is going to be a daily driver I would prefer every thing to have the factory appearance. I remember mentioning the SS-1 high flows couple of pages back and here it is:

This is the machined and modified comp housing, as mentioned earlier the stock surge slot has been taken care of: (can you notice how that was removed?)

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Before I have all the bits for tuning, I would like to stick with stock actuator. I've modified it and made it adjustable (to certain extent only).

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Turbo is on the manifold:

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Actuator is adjusted and fitted:

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And Factory turbo outlet is installed.

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I've arranged a mobile mechanic to install it tomorrow afternoon. Will post more photos as he work through.

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