Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i guess i do. im just going by that chart, that says the G2 is rated for 450hp (not sure if its @crank or @wheels)

The chart say 450hp - that is not 450rwhp.

450hp is @ the motor... ALL turbos are rated in such a manner

You can check for a OP6 rear. We will have the the bigger rears soon. The engineering place just take their time doing it. Hopefully be available in Mid May.

Hello Stao!

I have a vg30det turbo 4V54 front with OP6 rear sitting in the shed. I would like to no how much for a high flow? it is for for my RB25DET Cefiro street car so i'm trying to keep resonse in mind while still achieving as much power as possible. Having said that, wats gonna be better ball or bush bearing?

The high flow will cost $800 plus $80 oil feeding line. We will be using ATR28G3's profile which should get you around 260~270rwkws (OP6 rear) with supporting mods at peak and not too bad down low either.

Edited by hypergear
With R33 stock housing its very close to its limit, maybe another 5~10 kws once leak fixed.

With RB20 turbo's high flow I'm not too sure as I haven't had one dynoed yet. I guess its probably archive close to 230rwkws.

Wheel size wise this is using the a 71mm comp with 65mm turbine. With Garrett GT2871Rs its running the same size comp wheel but 53mm turbine.

I'm guessing you mean 71mm comp with 56.5mm turbine. I guess you use this on the larger rear housings as the stock R33 rear housing isn't large enough?

Would the larger rear housing turbo be suitable for a remapped ECU R33 car if only running 9psi? (currently runs fine on 10psi stock turbo)

As a replacement for stock turbo until I get off my arse and get injectors, AFM and powerFC?

We do use 65mm Turbine. Need some thing to flow as possible in a small turbine housing. If you can get a OP6 turbine housing we can use ATR28G3 CHRA with 76mm comp wheel. That will be able to get you over 250rwkws. You can drive it on low boost no problem, as for the best results get it dyno tunned with Power FC and supporting mods.

As for RB20 using ATR28G2 hi flow you can probably get some where between 200 to 230rwkws.

Edited by hypergear

Any way adding some photos of the OP6 reared hi flows.

This is a complete ATR28G3 high flowed into a OP6 Rear housing (note the mark on the housing)

atr28g3.JPG

atr28g3rear.JPG

GT2871RS CHRA high flowed into R34 OP6 Rear with stock comp housing:

gt2871.JPG

gt2971rear.JPG

This is a Custom made GT3076RS in a .63 Rear internally gated setup bolton to stock Manifold

gt3076.JPG

gt2076rear.JPG

Edited by hypergear

Will the larger rear be 0.7 A/R with skyline bolt pattern? I want 230rwkw at about 1 bar or less, I'm thinking a 2871 would get there easier with the slightly larger housing.

Is R33 rear housing 0.58 A/R?

And where did these 0.7 A/R housings come from? Couldn't they have made them 0.82 or something to flow a bit more?

Edited by simpletool

The larger rear would be a .63 rear with RB25's bolton pattern. If you perfer 230rwkws BB GT2871 CHRA should do it fine. You can get that with stock turbo's rear housing. Stock R33's rear is only .48

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To back this up, I'm always looking on the outside, seeing the level, and then opening it up anyway, as I'm worried the level I've looked at, is more so a scunge line. Then you end up dipping your damn finger in it too depending on the type of tank you're looking at just to make sure I'm not going insane.   PS, Mark, polish up the none moroso one a bit and then give it a clear coat. The Moroso one looks to be way shiner (not mirror polished, just shinier) and it'll still look weird with the two different alloys beside each other. Either that, or Id probably paint them a flat black...
    • Good old Orange Park hey... 😛   f**k I miss that race track
    • lo, it was a death trap. Good times. Got any Fatz Drift Day DVDs still available?
    • Yes, overthinking. Many PS reserviors are completely opaque. Our Skyline ones, for example. Have to remove lid, peak inside, swirl the dipstick, try to remember how to read it, etc etc. Normal. Radiator overflows are often sufficiently opaque and scunged up that you can't see the true level inside anyway, and have to open and have a peak. Besides which, I replaced the (massively expensive, even back then) plastic overflow in my Alfa GTV, back in the '90s with a stainless one that I had a good fabricator make up to be dimensionally same-same, that looks remarkably similar to the Bogan's Moroso one above, and I never suffered any particular paranoia that I didn't know how much coolant was in it.
    • Looks great, but I'm always concerned that it makes it difficult to see what level the fluids are at. Am I overthinking this?
×
×
  • Create New...