Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

TR43 G2 is running a .63 rear which is what the OP6 Rears are. But with a Vband rear. If you have a OP6 rear already then we can just high flow that. Less headaces when putting every thing back. Response wise I would say its touch bit laggier then before high flow.

TR43 G2 is running a .58 rear which is what the OP6 Rears are. But with a Vband rear. If you have a OP6 rear already then we can just high flow that. Less headaces when putting every thing back. Response wise I would say its touch bit laggier then before high flow.

TR43 G1 trims seem to be making around 240rwkw on 20ish psi on RB20's

so i'm assuming that since a G2 is meant to be 30hp larger your should see around 255-260rwkw on similar boost?

how would this compare with the gt2076r 0.63 internal gate custom tubro you posted a few pages ago?!?

TR43 G2 is running a .58 rear which is what the OP6 Rears are. But with a Vband rear. If you have a OP6 rear already then we can just high flow that. Less headaces when putting every thing back. Response wise I would say its touch bit laggier then before high flow.
TR43 G1 trims seem to be making around 240rwkw on 20ish psi on RB20's

so i'm assuming that since a G2 is meant to be 30hp larger your should see around 255-260rwkw on similar boost?

how would this compare with the gt2076r 0.63 internal gate custom tubro you posted a few pages ago?!?

ok now, so now that is stated.

my theory is IF you are chasing 250 RWKW in a R34 with a OP6 housing the best choice is to HIGHFLOW it.

IF you do NOT have a OP6 your better off going a TR43G2.

when i googled Hypergear i cam across a supra forum and i believe you were making a TR43G3. If so will that bring around 270Rwkw?

regards

Chris

TR43G3 is later on called a TR43i. Yes we've maxed that on a CA at 300rwkws with 24psi of boost. For standard build RB25det engine with 19psi of boost internal gate. it should get some where around 250~270rwkws.

We also managed to high flow GT15 turbo off a single soarer with ATR28G3 spec. The GT15's got lot bigger turbine housings. So in case you got a Soarer with a blown turbo we can also make it work.

machine.JPG

housings.JPG

chra.JPG

turbo.JPG

TR43G3 is later on called a TR43i. Yes we've maxed that on a CA at 300rwkws with 24psi of boost. For standard build RB25det engine with 19psi of boost internal gate. it should get some where around 250~270rwkws.

We also managed to high flow GT15 turbo off a single soarer with ATR28G3 spec. The GT15's got lot bigger turbine housings. So in case you got a Soarer with a blown turbo we can also make it work.

interesting as we do a lot of jzx100's here. Got 2 in car park now :dry:

TR43G3 is later on called a TR43i. Yes we've maxed that on a CA at 300rwkws with 24psi of boost. For standard build RB25det engine with 19psi of boost internal gate. it should get some where around 250~270rwkws.

so what turbo would you suggest to run on a stock rb20 trying to make 260rwkw on 20-24psi of boost?!?

has to be low mount to bolt onto the stock manifold and internal gate with the best response possible...

im thinking the TR43G2 but maybe its not big enough and should go a TR43G3 (aka TR43i???)

Edited by Cerbera

Guy on here used to have one he said 18psi at 3800 (that what he set his PSI too) so for something that could make 300kw thats pritty good, and that was with no cams just injectors afm and ecu and a light tune was 245kw.

So with cams better ecu and right tune sould see some good power.

Oh and it was a GTS-4 so RWD should read higher power.

Edited by raZ1911

Hoo yea. thats that Black R32 guy. Its abit of sad funny as I rang him for a copy of dyno sheet and he was asking me if any one found his car any where.

So is 250-270rwkw your highest rated hi flow for an rb25, i currently have a hi flow with a vg30 rear and core with an rb25 hi flowed front and bigger wheel (specs are HERE ) and i have a blown standard turbo, what are the chances of making something that will get around 300rwkw with an auto?

Assume you have a strong enough Auto box, you need some thing at least in .63 rear housing to do that. We can make a .63 Vband reared ATR28G4 which will get you about 300rwkws at 20~24PSI depends on mods. The OP6 Rears won't do it. But the VL's RB30 .63 rear housing can do it.

Assume you have a strong enough Auto box, you need some thing at least in .63 rear housing to do that. We can make a .63 Vband reared ATR28G4 which will get you about 300rwkws at 20~24PSI depends on mods. The OP6 Rears won't do it. But the VL's RB30 .63 rear housing can do it.

What what the price be on one of those and will the oil and water lines be a direct bolt on or will they have to be custom as well?

The price is $1060 including 14psi internal wastegate and Braided oil feeding line. Your Stock water lines fits. The rear end of the turbo is a 2.75 inch Vband, We supply the O ring for dump pipe making, and most of your local exhaust shops can make the dump made for roughly $200.

The price is $1060 including 14psi internal wastegate and Braided oil feeding line. Your Stock water lines fits. The rear end of the turbo is a 2.75 inch Vband, We supply the O ring for dump pipe making, and most of your local exhaust shops can make the dump made for roughly $200.

Would the hks adjustable wastegate i already have fit?

If its made to suit a T3 turbo It should. It depends on how long your actuator's extender is.

I have it on the hi flow thats on my car atm, dont know how long the rod is ive never screwed it all the way out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...