Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here are few more Photos of Powered Up high flowed R33 turbo with 2IU turbine housing:

Note the difference in volume of modifed turbine housing on the right:

housings.jpg

pufront.jpg

purear.jpg

Thats some cool modifications and porting to the housing.

Hi

Whats the response difference or lag difference between the G2 and the GT3040?

I have a R34 GTT Auto, a brought a GT3040(GT3082) with a .82 rear housing a while ago to put on. Now i think it might lag to much with the auto.

Am thinking of selling, to get the ATR43 G2 or get the original Skyline turbo high flowed.

PS. Only just found this forum topic and have just joined SAU

Hi there. If you are looks to make around 230rwkws with excellent street driving ability I can high flow your stock turbo to same spec as a 2530.

Hi

Whats the response difference or lag difference between the G2 and the GT3040?

I have a R34 GTT Auto, a brought a GT3040(GT3082) with a .82 rear housing a while ago to put on. Now i think it might lag to much with the auto.

Am thinking of selling, to get the ATR43 G2 or get the original Skyline turbo high flowed.

PS. Only just found this forum topic and have just joined SAU

On GT3040, boost wouldnt come on at all under 3500 (which when driving normally is annoying) with G2 turbo comes on about 2700 (only couple of pounds which count when your trying to over take). Full boost 3500 rpm.

LAG:

On gt3040 i would have full boost at around 4500

G2 1st gear 4000, 2nd gear 3500, 3rd gear 3400 5th 3200 rpm.

My opinion:

I was supposed to go for G2 from the start, and mates talked me into getting 3040 instead (M I S T A K E). Unwanted attention, got put off the road. canary.

G2 is better or as good up to 5000RPM, after that not as good but very close to GT3040 IMO. Fully legal, i recommend G2.

do you guys do replacment for standard turbos on a r33 gtr? what specs are they and how much power would the rebuilt turbos make? also how much would they cost? sorry couldnt find anythin reading through the pages only found rb25 upgrades nothing for the rb26.

On GT3040, boost wouldnt come on at all under 3500 (which when driving normally is annoying) with G2 turbo comes on about 2700 (only couple of pounds which count when your trying to over take). Full boost 3500 rpm.

LAG:

On gt3040 i would have full boost at around 4500

G2 1st gear 4000, 2nd gear 3500, 3rd gear 3400 5th 3200 rpm.

My opinion:

I was supposed to go for G2 from the start, and mates talked me into getting 3040 instead (M I S T A K E). Unwanted attention, got put off the road. canary.

G2 is better or as good up to 5000RPM, after that not as good but very close to GT3040 IMO. Fully legal, i recommend G2.

Hi

Thanks for the info. I will look at selling the GT3082

do you guys do replacment for standard turbos on a r33 gtr? what specs are they and how much power would the rebuilt turbos make? also how much would they cost? sorry couldnt find anythin reading through the pages only found rb25 upgrades nothing for the rb26.

With RB26 we normally high flow them to 2860RS spec. which works out to be the -9 configurations in your stock turbine and comp housings. they would be ok for up to 320rwkws before you need bigger turbine housings. Response wise they feels like the N1 steel wheel turbos. Not as responsive as the stock cermaic wheels.

Photos at:

http://www.digi-hardware.com/gtrturbos.htm

We can build custom .60 A/R comp and .64 / .86 turbine with OEM boltup pattern for those if required.

Hi there. If you are looks to make around 230rwkws with excellent street driving ability I can high flow your stock turbo to same spec as a 2530.

Hi

I will be looking at getting one in the future

What is the latest prices on the

Skyline ATR43 G2 0.63 turbo?

and

High Flow R34 G3 OP6?

thanks

Hi

I will be looking at getting one in the future

What is the latest prices on the

Skyline ATR43 G2 0.63 turbo?

and

High Flow R34 G3 OP6?

thanks

ATR43G2 .63 with high pressure actautor and braided oil feeding line we can do for $1530.

To high flow your stock R34 turbo cost $960 including braided oil feeding line. high pressure actautor is additional at $150 each.

With RB26 we normally high flow them to 2860RS spec. which works out to be the -9 configurations in your stock turbine and comp housings. they would be ok for up to 320rwkws before you need bigger turbine housings. Response wise they feels like the N1 steel wheel turbos. Not as responsive as the stock cermaic wheels.

Photos at:

http://www.digi-hardware.com/gtrturbos.htm

We can build custom .60 A/R comp and .64 / .86 turbine with OEM boltup pattern for those if required.

I'm curious as to whether you have done one of these custom turbo's for a GTR yet and if so any dyno graphs or similar or info :D

I'm curious as to whether you have done one of these custom turbo's for a GTR yet and if so any dyno graphs or similar or info :D

Have done few. Not as many as other turbos thou. Have also driven one. Un-tuned, car pulled hard after 4500RPM but have lost fairbit of response to stock ceramic turbos. its about 300RPM laggier then stock N1 turbos.

Hi there. If you are looks to make around 230rwkws with excellent street driving ability I can high flow your stock turbo to same spec as a 2530.

Sounds very interesting, what is the price on this for an R34 OP6 turbo?

Sounds very interesting, what is the price on this for an R34 OP6 turbo?

Convert that into OP6 R34 turbo cost $1000 including braided oil feeding line and oil drain adaptor.

To do this we have to modify T28 bearing housing to suit a T3x pring turbine housing.

Have done few. Not as many as other turbos thou. Have also driven one. Un-tuned, car pulled hard after 4500RPM but have lost fairbit of response to stock ceramic turbos. its about 300RPM laggier then stock N1 turbos.

I was thinking if you could use the new VARA turbo's that your making in a GTR...maybe not :D

I was thinking if you could use the new VARA turbo's that your making in a GTR...maybe not :D

Probably not at this stage. They are too small to work with.

Standard from $800 + GST + oil line $80 = $960

Powered up high flow from $1100 + Oil line $80 + $150 High pressure actautor = $1310

Standard from $800 + GST + oil line $80 = $960

Powered up high flow from $1100 + Oil line $80 + $150 High pressure actautor = $1310

This might be a silly question but is it possible to just replace the standard ceramic turbo wheel with a steel turbo wheel so that boost can be raised safely above 12psi? Do you offer a price for that? Would it still require a different oil line?

We actually build a brand new turbo core with bigger wheels, then machine your stock housings to suit it. We only use steel turbine wheels. So are you actually getting back a brand new turbo inside your factory housings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...