Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here are few more Photos of Powered Up high flowed R33 turbo with 2IU turbine housing:

Note the difference in volume of modifed turbine housing on the right:

housings.jpg

pufront.jpg

purear.jpg

Thats some cool modifications and porting to the housing.

Hi

Whats the response difference or lag difference between the G2 and the GT3040?

I have a R34 GTT Auto, a brought a GT3040(GT3082) with a .82 rear housing a while ago to put on. Now i think it might lag to much with the auto.

Am thinking of selling, to get the ATR43 G2 or get the original Skyline turbo high flowed.

PS. Only just found this forum topic and have just joined SAU

Hi there. If you are looks to make around 230rwkws with excellent street driving ability I can high flow your stock turbo to same spec as a 2530.

Hi

Whats the response difference or lag difference between the G2 and the GT3040?

I have a R34 GTT Auto, a brought a GT3040(GT3082) with a .82 rear housing a while ago to put on. Now i think it might lag to much with the auto.

Am thinking of selling, to get the ATR43 G2 or get the original Skyline turbo high flowed.

PS. Only just found this forum topic and have just joined SAU

On GT3040, boost wouldnt come on at all under 3500 (which when driving normally is annoying) with G2 turbo comes on about 2700 (only couple of pounds which count when your trying to over take). Full boost 3500 rpm.

LAG:

On gt3040 i would have full boost at around 4500

G2 1st gear 4000, 2nd gear 3500, 3rd gear 3400 5th 3200 rpm.

My opinion:

I was supposed to go for G2 from the start, and mates talked me into getting 3040 instead (M I S T A K E). Unwanted attention, got put off the road. canary.

G2 is better or as good up to 5000RPM, after that not as good but very close to GT3040 IMO. Fully legal, i recommend G2.

do you guys do replacment for standard turbos on a r33 gtr? what specs are they and how much power would the rebuilt turbos make? also how much would they cost? sorry couldnt find anythin reading through the pages only found rb25 upgrades nothing for the rb26.

On GT3040, boost wouldnt come on at all under 3500 (which when driving normally is annoying) with G2 turbo comes on about 2700 (only couple of pounds which count when your trying to over take). Full boost 3500 rpm.

LAG:

On gt3040 i would have full boost at around 4500

G2 1st gear 4000, 2nd gear 3500, 3rd gear 3400 5th 3200 rpm.

My opinion:

I was supposed to go for G2 from the start, and mates talked me into getting 3040 instead (M I S T A K E). Unwanted attention, got put off the road. canary.

G2 is better or as good up to 5000RPM, after that not as good but very close to GT3040 IMO. Fully legal, i recommend G2.

Hi

Thanks for the info. I will look at selling the GT3082

do you guys do replacment for standard turbos on a r33 gtr? what specs are they and how much power would the rebuilt turbos make? also how much would they cost? sorry couldnt find anythin reading through the pages only found rb25 upgrades nothing for the rb26.

With RB26 we normally high flow them to 2860RS spec. which works out to be the -9 configurations in your stock turbine and comp housings. they would be ok for up to 320rwkws before you need bigger turbine housings. Response wise they feels like the N1 steel wheel turbos. Not as responsive as the stock cermaic wheels.

Photos at:

http://www.digi-hardware.com/gtrturbos.htm

We can build custom .60 A/R comp and .64 / .86 turbine with OEM boltup pattern for those if required.

Hi there. If you are looks to make around 230rwkws with excellent street driving ability I can high flow your stock turbo to same spec as a 2530.

Hi

I will be looking at getting one in the future

What is the latest prices on the

Skyline ATR43 G2 0.63 turbo?

and

High Flow R34 G3 OP6?

thanks

Hi

I will be looking at getting one in the future

What is the latest prices on the

Skyline ATR43 G2 0.63 turbo?

and

High Flow R34 G3 OP6?

thanks

ATR43G2 .63 with high pressure actautor and braided oil feeding line we can do for $1530.

To high flow your stock R34 turbo cost $960 including braided oil feeding line. high pressure actautor is additional at $150 each.

With RB26 we normally high flow them to 2860RS spec. which works out to be the -9 configurations in your stock turbine and comp housings. they would be ok for up to 320rwkws before you need bigger turbine housings. Response wise they feels like the N1 steel wheel turbos. Not as responsive as the stock cermaic wheels.

Photos at:

http://www.digi-hardware.com/gtrturbos.htm

We can build custom .60 A/R comp and .64 / .86 turbine with OEM boltup pattern for those if required.

I'm curious as to whether you have done one of these custom turbo's for a GTR yet and if so any dyno graphs or similar or info :D

I'm curious as to whether you have done one of these custom turbo's for a GTR yet and if so any dyno graphs or similar or info :D

Have done few. Not as many as other turbos thou. Have also driven one. Un-tuned, car pulled hard after 4500RPM but have lost fairbit of response to stock ceramic turbos. its about 300RPM laggier then stock N1 turbos.

Hi there. If you are looks to make around 230rwkws with excellent street driving ability I can high flow your stock turbo to same spec as a 2530.

Sounds very interesting, what is the price on this for an R34 OP6 turbo?

Sounds very interesting, what is the price on this for an R34 OP6 turbo?

Convert that into OP6 R34 turbo cost $1000 including braided oil feeding line and oil drain adaptor.

To do this we have to modify T28 bearing housing to suit a T3x pring turbine housing.

Have done few. Not as many as other turbos thou. Have also driven one. Un-tuned, car pulled hard after 4500RPM but have lost fairbit of response to stock ceramic turbos. its about 300RPM laggier then stock N1 turbos.

I was thinking if you could use the new VARA turbo's that your making in a GTR...maybe not :D

I was thinking if you could use the new VARA turbo's that your making in a GTR...maybe not :D

Probably not at this stage. They are too small to work with.

Standard from $800 + GST + oil line $80 = $960

Powered up high flow from $1100 + Oil line $80 + $150 High pressure actautor = $1310

Standard from $800 + GST + oil line $80 = $960

Powered up high flow from $1100 + Oil line $80 + $150 High pressure actautor = $1310

This might be a silly question but is it possible to just replace the standard ceramic turbo wheel with a steel turbo wheel so that boost can be raised safely above 12psi? Do you offer a price for that? Would it still require a different oil line?

We actually build a brand new turbo core with bigger wheels, then machine your stock housings to suit it. We only use steel turbine wheels. So are you actually getting back a brand new turbo inside your factory housings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...