Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is there no way to build a new exhaust housing without having the turbo with you?

Pretty hard to have my car of the road ATM, gearbox in my ute went kaput a month back.

Ok I believe most people have seen of how this interesting turbo performed.

atr43ss2250rwkws.jpg

Youtube video:

I've had some play with the wastegate controller and boost controller. The result is some thing like this:

wastegatecontroller.JPG

So basically the end result is you can use this device to hold boost to certain extend. But can not emulate the full extend of an external wastegate. It is pretty sensitive to adjustment.

Other thing to try is the twin entry actuator:

twinentryactuator.JPG

Apparently you can use inlet manifold pressure force shutting the wastegate and adjust it with 2x boost controllers or supporting EBCs. I will check to see what Garret has in this range and do few more tests later in the week.

got around to installing (or half installing) the turbo ATR43G3 0.63 rear on my R32 RB20det last night!

bolted fine onto the manifold, but the compressor cover was just fouling on the heat shield. was very easy to fix with a few taps of the hammer to bend it back a few mm and now there is just enough clearance. The braided oil line was a very easy install and the water line on the block side of the turbo lined up very well. The oil drain also seems to line up well and shouldn't be a problem to bolt up tonight. The water line on the chassis side seems to be low by about 15mm but is held on by a solid metal bracket which im pretty sure i can bend and line up well.

overall it has been fairly basic to install :D

ps. my JJR dump was hitting on the wastegate controller by a few mm, but used a angle grinder to take a little metal off the flange and it fits fine now

Stao - the 3.5mms...i guess thats millimeters...if so that I still think the comp is out of flow and not the wastegate blowing open.....3.5mm is stuff all and might as well not be open.

No. Wastegate was forced open by pressure. It run off scale fully shut and popped a cooler hose. Not really possible to get bottom and range power in one hit. Should be possible to certain extent with the VIRA turbine housing setup. So work in progress.

3.5mm is from the center of the wastegate flap to the turbine housing.

Stao I have checked my oil return, there was slight kinking but nothing major and i don't think it would have caused any oil flow issues. I have replaced it and there is now no kinking and it has not helped with the extreme lag at all. Still not getting 10psi till after 5000rpm.

I have sprayed carby cleaner on all joints and hoses in the engine bay and there was no change in idle meaning there is probably not any air leaks.

Exhaust is straight through 3" with no mufflers or cat(In the process of buying a metal cat).

Any more ideas?

Haven't seen that before. I have no idea why you are getting the lag. The only thing I can do for you is by swapping with a smaller .63 turbine housing, and We've got the wastegating mechanism to hold steady boost to redline now.

Also updating with the PU .63 high flowed result.

This is running an internal wastegate with updated gate controller. Hold 18psi all the way to red line.

Full boost @ 4100RPM, made 294.8 RWKWs with wheel spin hitting rev limiter at 7200RPM.

The RPM is Derived from Roller speed. The wheel spin makes it looks short, and had some affect on the upper power curve. I'm trying to organize another run with a hub dyno, which should give me abit more accurate data up top.

atr43G363295rwkw.jpg

Haven't seen that before. I have no idea why you are getting the lag. The only thing I can do for you is by swapping with a smaller .63 turbine housing, and We've got the wastegating mechanism to hold steady boost to redline now.

And for this i have to send the turbo back to you. I guess i will have to deal with the lag until july when im on holidays and can live with out my car for a week

Sorry I won't be able to profile it to exact unless I have the original CHRA. But I haven't seen any one else with this type of lag issue running .82 turbines. The only way I can reduce that is by install a small housing.

You can send it in when you are ready.

  • 3 weeks later...

Few local tuners advised smaller CHRAs in larger housings enables them with better efficiency while maintain similar response.

For a weekend project, I've decided to modify and install one of my current ATR43G3s to run on .70 comp and .82 turbine. I've taken some photos for people who's interested to see how things were done.

First stage is casting. This is the stage of a comp / turbine housing when it was first delivered to our factory.

casting1.jpg

casting2.jpg

Surface profile to suit back plate and comp wheel:

machined1.jpg

machined2.jpg

Test fit:

trailfit.jpg

Clean up:

machining.jpg

Drill pressure plate pattern:

whole.jpg

Fitted to turbo:

atr437082.jpg

Big thanks to a member who came and gave me a hand on installation.

gatr43.jpg

It was difficult to fit using stock manifold due to limited engine bay room, and the first problem was the actuator bracket not been able to fit into the engine bay.

atr43g3oncar1.jpg

After making custom actuator bracket we've managed to fit the turbo in, a 12mm spacer was required to space out the comp housing from exhaust manifold. There are 2x brackets holding factory water lines, they must be released before bending them to reach the CHRA (mainly due to the spacer)

atr43g3oncar2.jpg

Dump pipe was easy.

atr43g3oncar3.jpg

Braided oil feeding line goes to engine block:

atr43g3oncar5.jpg

Looking all good:

atr43g3oncar7.jpg

For cooler piping plumbing, I've used a 2.5inch 90 degrees bend and a 3inch long 2.5 metal pipe. The Power steering fluid bottle had to be re-located:

atr43g3oncar6.jpg

Pod filter goes on:

atr43g3oncar4.jpg

and job is done.

After going for a quick spin, I've noticed the turbo made louder suction noise (lol). and power delivery was lot more smoother compare to smaller .60 / .63 housings. Full boost of 24psi is at about 4200RPMs, very noticeable amount of pull sensation after 4500RPMs. Will get it tuned shortly with results, If better then standard I will update this combination into the current G3 profiles. I’m expecting around 310rwkws.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...