Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


Recommended Posts

You get full boost by 4300RPMs with RB25det using .82. It pulls lot harder.

If your purposes of buying this turbo is for mild power street use the .63 is fine, But it does get really hot under high boost if you use it for drifting or tracking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another small update:

Still remember this ATR43G3 unit with .82 turbine and .70 comp?

atr437082.jpg

Got it dyno tuned today, car mad 298.5rwkws on 21psi with miss-fire. Only done 2 runs, car miss-fired very bad after, we changed plugs cleaned coils and nothing helped. I will give another try with splitfire coils in few weeks. I didn't grab the dynosheet this time. But dyno footage with 3 people in the boot is worth to look at:

(click on photo below to watch that video footage)

Also my engine comp shown:

130, 125, 125, 120, 125, 119

Next run will be with a new forged engine :miner:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another small update:

Still remember this ATR43G3 unit with .82 turbine and .70 comp?

atr437082.jpg

Got it dyno tuned today, car mad 298.5rwkws on 21psi with miss-fire. Only done 2 runs, car miss-fired very bad after, we changed plugs cleaned coils and nothing helped. I will give another try with splitfire coils in few weeks. I didn't grab the dynosheet this time. But dyno footage with 3 people in the boot is worth to look at:

(click on photo below to watch that video footage)

Also my engine comp shown:

130, 125, 125, 120, 125, 119

Next run will be with a new forged engine :miner:

nice power how much for the turbo? and what mods does it require to bolt up

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Peak power was around 7000RPM. Check the 2nd run with people in the boot.

Power rise till red line, the curve is very similar to the 268rwkws run with restrictive intake and the 316rwkws run on with the sil180.

car was not strapped with wheel spin, Reved to 7000RPM as usual.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another small update:

Still remember this ATR43G3 unit with .82 turbine and .70 comp?

atr437082.jpg

Next run will be with a new forged engine :)

These are the ones i wanna see more of :) 0.82 has a better power torque balance than 0.63.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think this turbo is the same as my ATR28g4. Getting slightly better spool now with my alternator changed. Hitting 1 bar just after 4000rpm with no boost controller. 10psi Actuator with heap of preload

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Further updates:

Apart from turbochargers our engineers are also dedicated in to engine building, how ever I'll not provide this service to the public. I will show every one how it’s done and costs involved. Any useful advise is welcomed.

Primary goal:

This engine will be used for our turbocharger evaluation pusposes, My goal is 350rwkws.

This engine will be built with stock cams using forged pistons only, so Power vs Boost generated from it would be identical to any other healthy standard RB25dets.

Engine:

96 model RB25det engine bought from local wrecker.

1.jpg

2.jpg

An hour later its in bits:

3.jpg

4.jpg

Cracked piston in cyc 6. But bore seems to be in ok condition

6.jpg

5.jpg

I’ll be using forged CP 20 thou over sized RB25det pistons with rings and pins. The piston set cost $1150 AUD.

7.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Engine block's been sent away to Reflex engine services. Its going to cost $260 to re-bore all 6 cyc with block thermo bathed. Engine head cost $250 to trim and bath.

Also for people whom owns a pair of CT12a Powered 1JZ Soarers. We can high flow them to 2860rs Disco CHRA specifications in sleeve bearing:

ct12acomp.jpg

ct12aturbine.jpg

ct12aside.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure, bromance with common shit box interests.
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Aren't we already on one? SAU unforgettable bromance.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...