Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You are actually moving an engine from the wrecker in the trunk of a Skyline??

;):thumbsup:

ons only, so Power vs Boost generated from it would be identical to any other healthy standard RB25dets.

Engine:

96 model RB25det engine bought from local wrecker.

1.jpg

The compressor map with the standard high flow would be identical as:

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...60-15comp_e.jpg

Since its running the same size wheel in same size housing.

Further updates:

The ARP bolts, Bearings and full Gasket set cost $691.

gaskets.jpg

Engine come back horned and cleaned ($535). The job was abit rough thou, I spent hours buffing out the left over residuals from previous head gasket, Which I paid to get it cleaned. Any way:

Engine block with pistons back in and head assembled:

engine.jpg

engine2.jpg

piston.jpg

engine2-1.jpg

engine3.jpg

engine4.jpg

engine5.jpg

head.jpg

Well original goal of building this engine is not for that wow factor, I just need a very solid standard engine to evaluate max power out put on 98 fuel for all high flow profiles and bolton ATR43s. So Power vs Boost vs RPM would be identical with the same turbo on any standard RB25dets. This is also a None Neo motor, Neo engines would pickup better power and response.

Results with fully moded head, cams, and manifold would be deceptive as no one else has the same mod. But I will get them to run with race fuel and Nos after the evaluation for abit of fun :whistling: .

Link G4 Ecu

hiflowed turbo

550cc injectors

3" dump/exhaust gutted cat

intercooler

bosch 040 fuel pump

5puk exceedy clutch

and wind that up to 20psi and watch the figures climb haha

Hi Guys, I'v just bought a fully stock R33 of JSA 2 weeks ago. I'm looking to get me turbo high flowed and make some power. Can you give me a list of recommended mods? Cheers.

If its just been complianced there are few of things to be done:

1. Install a front mount cooler (we can supply).

2. Install a strong clutch (recommend Xtreme clutch kits at Ace Brakes ) if your is stock.

3. Install a full 3inch turbo back exhaust with a honeycomb cat. (JSA are Xforce dealers they should have plenty).

4. Get a set of 550cc / 700cc injectors (Try Cjmotors).

5. Get a Z32 AFM. Try Japart or see if JSA's got one.

6. Get a 3inch metal induction pipe made up (Try Glenroy exhaust) and get your self a good pod filter.

7. Get a PFC or Z32 ECU with Nistune chip (You can get that done at my recommended tuners).

8. Bring pass your stock turbo and have a chat, we have few different profiles and turbine housings to choice from.

9. With few hours of Dyno time at Dr.drift or Status your car would be pretty sweet to drive.

Another update:

This is a OP6 high flow that we did for a customer's R33 (none Neo engine) earlier using our updated turbine wheel. It made 241rwkws at 15psi full boost by 3450RPMs with 98 fuel. I'm pretty happy with it, Dyno sheet showing results of tuned maps before and after high flow. It made more power every where without more lag.

The other thing that I'm pleased with is the power curve which sits lot more gradual instead of linear. So the wheels will be able to convert lot more of those energy onto acceleration momentum.

op6highflow241rwkw.jpg

Hi mate, am interested in a Hi Flow Turbo..

looking at running around 230rwkw..

How much does it cost to Hi-flow my current turbo I got a gT-t r34.

& do i take it to my mechanic for a straight bolt on?

I have a new front mount intercooler,

Clutch.

Do i need an ECU?

Whats the cheapest ECU I Can get?

The cost to high flow is $960 inc GST and braided oil feeding line. Every thing bolt back on. The cheapest ECU option would be getting a Nistune ECU installed and you need a set of at least 550cc injectors and a Z32 AFM. Will get you 230rwkws with 14psi of boost.

With The Nistune ECU you can order direct from Matt on: [email protected] its $350 installed. Some of your local tuners can also install it as a package with the tune.

Also some update with my engine build:

The engine build has been complete and it is now back into the car. How ever it floods it self every time I crank. I guess I have to toll it to Sam to play with the map. Not having much luck with it this time.

Hi Stao,

i been thinking to Hiflow my turbo for a while now, just wondering once u guys Hiflow it do i need to upgrade my ECU straight away

or car i still drive on it till i get around to buy my new ecu

thanks

I would assume you shouldn't have any problems driving it around on low boost with standard ECU for a while.

Though having said that, it comes with a high pressure actuator, so you will have a lot of trouble driving it around without overboosting.

I will be receiving mine soon, and will need to drive it on stock ECU to the tuner after fitting. I'm not looking forward to that part lol.

I'd recommend (as I'm sure others will too) to just save up some more, and get it done at the same time as other necessary supporting mods (injectors, fuel pump and ECU)

Hi Stao,

i been thinking to Hiflow my turbo for a while now, just wondering once u guys Hiflow it do i need to upgrade my ECU straight away

or car i still drive on it till i get around to buy my new ecu

thanks

Once turbo is high flowed you can still run about 10psi with stock ECU and 98 fuel. There will still be a very noticeable difference in power and torque. It is recommended to go for a aftermarket ecu some injectors and etc to get the full potential of your car.

Some updates from yesterday:

Engine's build has been completed.

enginewbelt.jpg

enginenew3.jpg.JPG

enginenew2.jpg.JPG

Taking the old engine out with respect to its 6 month service.

engineold.jpg.JPG

turboold.jpg.JPG

engineout.jpg.JPG

New engine is dumped in, alone with a evaluation subject: OP6 high flow

enginein.jpg.JPG

turbonew.jpg.JPG

How ever the engine fouls plug on crank. Tolled it to Dr.drift today and hopping for the best

Stao/anyone who may know:

I am intending on at the very least running this as my temp setup until I can get a hard intake setup made, will this flow 18psi through an ATR43G2 without causing restriction?

3" turbo inlet > 3" to 2.5" silicon adapter > standard R33 intake piping with 3" steel pipe mod to stop sucking closed > pod filter

the 2.5" silicon after the turbo is my concern, but I've heard that it won't cause an airflow problem as long as the intake piping doesn't suck itself closed.

Confirm/deny? Thanks :ermm:

Here are 3x dyno sheets for your reference as stock intake system, stock intake pipe with metal insert didn't work. I also believe your friend Pat experienced very difference result before and after upgrading to 3inch metal intake with pod. His comments are in page 39.

Results:

1. ATR43G2 Stock intake pipe with air box no filter. Intake pipe sucking shut.

atr43g3badrun.jpg

2. ATR45 running stock intake pipe with metal sleeve stopping it from shutting with pod filter. (left)

ATR45 running 3inch metal intake pipe with pod filter. (right)

The sleeve insert run ended early as it not only restricting power, it did some thing strange (knocking?) and inconsistency in AFM reading. This run ended early.

atr45intakecompare.JPG

So please use a 3 inch or better 4 inch intake pipe with a good flow pod filter. Or at least use that for tuning.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...