Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sounds like your pretty sure of that, what have I done wrong.

lilcrash - I haven't done a long search, but reading through this thread shows you have problems with your car that you keep bringing up in here.

Have you created a seperate thread about the problems you're having to see if the greater SAU mob that don't visit the HG thread might be able to help with?

All I've gained in the last 10 pages or so is that

- you have a HG turbo.

- your car runs like shit.

- your car makes no power

- your car is very laggy compared to others with the same turbo

- it loses all power after 5 minutes.

Just because this all started happening after the turbo install doesn't mean that the turbo is the fault.

start a new thread.

list all the problems.

list everything you have tried so far.

post dyno graphs or a dump of your tune etc.

I have been reading all your posts going back a while, when you have been doing the inlet pressure test have you had the throttle open or closed? If you havent it might be an idea to try that, on that idea I am not sure whether that would blow through the motor and you lose pressure out of the exhaust, if it does I would get a blanking plate at the cat and bolt it on, then you can check everything.

Another thing what boost control are you using? Can you borrow a turbotech and check to make sure it can be ruled out, I know you had a turbo smart boost tee, I have found them to be terribly unreliable for consistant numbers and runs on the dyno.

In the first post in the thread stao said he had valve float which caused boost leak and sloppy response it might be something else to consider.

I guess you also did the other basic checks like static ignition timing, leakdown and compression tests?

Edited by Stevoss

Be nice to other members after all we are trying to solve his issues. I've just got my order of the super high strength actuators I will send you one this afternoon. Strap that on and see if that changes boost behavior. If not then you are welcome to send it back for exchange for a G3 unit which are welly proven, If it still has strange boost behavior then its going to be abit out of my hands.

so whats new with the new highflows?

i think thats the route i will take when i finally get my act together/i stop getting hassle from my other half

The std high flow profile was updated late last year and been used since. They should produce abit more power then the earlier profile, how ever I've only got one dyno sheet from Toshi's customer whom's made 260rwkws out of 21U rear housing, which is little bit more then what I originally expected.

I think the current 21U high flow profile should do around 240rwkws while the OP6 should be around 260rwkws.

Be interesting to see what the lastest PU .82 hi-flows now make with the updated FNT etc, seeing as they are the same as the latest G3's (330rwkw) except

for comp cover?, be interesting to see how much the standard comp cover chokes it

cheers'

darren

so what would be the cheapest setup to max out the stock setup? (run injectors and afm to a safe max)

op6 highflow?

Std high flow with a ECU will do fine with stock setup. Also Toshi got that guy 260rwks with std high flow and factory setup. I've noticed you can do closed loop injections with some ecus but unsure about remaps. if so then you might be able to get to that power level.

cool cool, might have to get mine highflowed soon then

rough price for that? including lines?

and whats closed loop injections?

Std high flow with a ECU will do fine with stock setup. Also Toshi got that guy 260rwks with std high flow and factory setup. I've noticed you can do closed loop injections with some ecus but unsure about remaps. if so then you might be able to get to that power level.

With stock injectors?

Std high flow with a ECU will do fine with stock setup. Also Toshi got that guy 260rwks with std high flow and factory setup. I've noticed you can do closed loop injections with some ecus but unsure about remaps. if so then you might be able to get to that power level.

What is 'close loop' injections? As in different type of batch fire or something that means the injectors pulse more often?

Edited by Rolls

Yes. this guy. apparantly thats on a 21U R33 turbo high flow running toshi's mail order ecu on stock injectors, you might want to ask toshi to see what he's done on the injection duty cycles. Not too sure if the dyno's accurate but thats only result I've got from the updated profiled high flow units this year.

21u260rwkwboost.jpg

I wouldnt do it...but some guy made 260 something on a standard ECU!! (thread on here somewhere)

Was done by making it laggy so it missed the R&R point.

But yeah, Closed loop at cruise would make it not run mega rich, But I dare say it would be quite rich coming onto boost though.

I guess if you could get the injectors to pulse more often or you modified the pulsewidth it could be possible, that or using an aftermarket fuel regulator.

At 100% there is no pulsing. The injectors stay open

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so will run the piping over that radiator and no plenum it is. Put that money towards a Haltech and see what suits. Any ideas something like an elite 2000 or 2500 right? My long term goal is 300kw e85 and manual swap and that’s a dream come true. For now will be 200kw and auto the stock rb25det neo intake isn’t too expensive with throttle body. If I was to have the port matching done, Would that be better than the stock de intake as the det has bigger holes plus has the spots for sensors etc? And suit more long term?  appreciate the advice?   
    • You understand AFR is not the only thing that contributes to it pinging yeah? Funnily, what the AFR gauge will tell you when it likely is pinging, is going to make you think things are really safe and good.
    • Run the piping how we all have for decades. Also the duel runners with the +T setup dramatically helps it gets on boost quicker. Yes, chase huge power it'll become a problem, but you're a long way off when you're already saying an aftermarket ECU is out of the budget. You also say NisTune as it's simple, and then immediately say it'll be painful, meaning... It won't be simple. It will likely cost you a lot more stuffing around with a Nistune, than just putting a Haltech or similar in.
    • I’ll order an afr gauge to keep an eye on it.  Then will get a haltech soon 
    • TD05 or maybe pulsar PSR2867r Gen 2?  id love a garret but it’s quite out the budget for now and I’m not chasing crazy power.    yeh fuel pump haven’t looked into but whatever works, kind of last on my list.    Nistune because it’s simple but Ik it’s a lot of pain especially as I’m auto +t with the whole seperate TCM etc still investigating that. Haltech id love but once budget tight for now atleast.    finally the reason I’m trying for a plenum instead of the stock intake is I already have a standard Intercooler mounted etc. so the ports are on both sides so trying to not have to go over the clutch fan radiator etc. trying to find a good deal return flow if I don’t than this will do for now I guess. btw any ideas with that, apparently some people have to cut blades to reduce it from hitting the Intercooler piping over the radiator ? Thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...