Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its a good number. But I cant spoil it for the owner :)

Ive heard very good things, as expected!

Cough *cut price GTRS upgrade*

You too hey? Thought I was the only one special enough to know :(

It's nothing huge, but an expected figure and there's probably room for a few more killerwasps with a couple more mods. Definitely a worthwhile street car upgrade, given how early it comes on.

Were you guys breaking traction in the vid?

easily more then 240kw? not hating but it doesnt really even look that quick.. maybe the video is miss leading.. and lol at breaking traction .. are you listening with your ears blocked n eyes shut.

easily more then 240kw? not hating but it doesnt really even look that quick.. maybe the video is miss leading.. and lol at breaking traction .. are you listening with your ears blocked n eyes shut.

I'm on a laptop in an office, what do you want me to do, put on some fucking Sennheisers? Speed looked to be going up inconsistently with the RPM, was curious if there was any break in the drivetrain, be it clutch or wheelspin.

On that note, I bet I can film a video of me breaking traction in a car with the camera looking at a blurry view of the dash and you wouldn't know it.

You too hey? Thought I was the only one special enough to know :(

It's nothing huge, but an expected figure and there's probably room for a few more killerwasps with a couple more mods. Definitely a worthwhile street car upgrade, given how early it comes on.

Were you guys breaking traction in the vid?

To me the SS1PU is a GTRS replacement with a little more scope for a well sought setup.

That being said, the GTRS is a 240-250kw item with ballistic response. So far the SS1PU is living up to my expectations, and Stao has shown it definitely has the scope for more (which I dont think the GTRS can do 'as easily').

If I owned an SS1PU on a fairly simple setup I would want around 240 and id be happy with its outcome. If I had spent lots of time making sure my cooler and exhaust and stuff were all good, and no valve float etc, then I would want 270 from it. Remember that Stao runs a fresh motor and upgraded valve springs. While it still is a 'stock' RB25 it is pretty much the best a stock RB25 can be.

As Birds has noted previously, the guy has spent countless hours perfecting his test car and knows how to get the best out of it. Dont buy an SS1PU expecting 280kw without LOTS of effort.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...