Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


Recommended Posts

And let the holdups begin:

4 of the Nismo 555s I supplied to Racepace, aren't actually Nismo injectors...they just look exactly the same...except for a different spray pattern. I bought these second hand from a seller advertising them as Nismo 555s out of an SR20, then got them reconditioned / flow tested...so I've been ripped off :(

Racepace are reluctant to use them with the 2 x brand new Nismo 555s I bought from Nengun, due to different spray pattern, so I have to source 4 more Nismo 555s before they can get to tuning :(

A little useless telling you this now but had I known a month a go I would have sorted you out... I ended up using my 555s 'for the sake of future scope'.. Cars all done now :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BOOYAH just found 4 x Nismo 555cc in my shipping container of race car parts. They must have been in our S15 tracker before we put 740cc in to run E85. Just dropped them down to Racepace and Chris said my car could be on the dyno by the end of the day or he might come in tomorrow to work on it...worst case scenario I should get it back Monday, pending any tuning issues.

Still reeling about paying good money for copies though...hopefully I can get a few hundred for them on eBay.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bummer thats a pain though teething issues are to be expected..

Do they have the same looking nozzles ?

Edit..lol, I paid 100$ each for stock sr20 NA injectors advertised as 740 nismos..best mistake I ever made ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bit of a cross post, from RB25 turbo upgrade thread, but I did promise Stao to post results a while back.

98 R34 GTT - Auto

Blitz return flow

Trust PE II

HKS pod + z32

3" Hard metal intake pipe

Hypergear ATR34 G3 0.82 rear

TurboSmart Eboost 2

TurboSmart FPR800

Walbro intank

Bosch ID 1000cc Inj

NGK BKR7ES copper spark plugs, gapped 0.8mm

MV Automatics Stage 2 kit - valve body + welsh plugs

Nistune

Running KU31 255/30/19 on the rears

A little box slip, which is why the rpm is out - redline set to 7k.

Cooler was a little heat soaked after 30 something runs, and tuner wanted to play with extra load points at the bottom to fix idling.

med_gallery_70938_4838_61190.jpg

med_gallery_70938_4838_21512.jpg

med_gallery_70938_4838_897.jpg

Could have pushed for 300@20psi, but it was overall too laggy to be my daily and tuner had concerns over bend shaft causing rear wheel to touch the housing.

Decided to ask Stao to resize from an ATR34G3 to an ATR34SS2 to improve response.

Since then there's been some box troubles, so have replaced the solenoids and upgraded 2nd gear to a billet servo.

New tune *hopefully* next week, will post results then.

Edit: Images fixed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bummer thats a pain though teething issues are to be expected..

Do they have the same looking nozzles ?

Edit..lol, I paid 100$ each for stock sr20 NA injectors advertised as 740 nismos..best mistake I ever made ;)

Farrrrrrk :(

f**king scumbags man, it'd be so easy to con people too because side feed injectors all look the same! I bought these nearly 2 years ago so no hope of getting money back, the seller probably didn't even know they weren't genuine as he was selling them second hand himself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those reading is based on a half opened waste gate, the tuner must've unloaded too much tesion from the actuator extender, causing it stick open. If would be a very different end result if the actuator was adjusted correctly. Is the ss2 installed and running? Had a test drive on it yet?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just went for a slow cruise in the car

Ran into some more trouble this afternoon

Started it and the water line opposite side to the manifold started spitting out water

Ended up being the washers I used were to big

The side closest to the manifold may or may not be leaking.

Pretty worried about it but I guess only time will tell

Way to hard to get to the washer now as everything is back together

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those reading is based on a half opened waste gate, the tuner must've unloaded too much tesion from the actuator extender, causing it stick open. If would be a very different end result if the actuator was adjusted correctly. Is the ss2 installed and running? Had a test drive on it yet?

Yeah I thought so, which is really annoying because the G3 may have been a better choice... Anyways it is installed and running, not tuned because 2nd gear locks into limp mode, solenoids should be here on Monday or Tuesday, then couple of hours for tune, will post up results.

Even in third with the bit of lag it's nice and boosty!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Question guys.

Can I chuck some gasket goop around this bolt

To stop it for leaking just in case

Or will that just do nothing

The engine side is a pain. You can put a very thin layer of silicon glue around the washers that are going in there. which works well.

Yeah I thought so, which is really annoying because the G3 may have been a better choice... Anyways it is installed and running, not tuned because 2nd gear locks into limp mode, solenoids should be here on Monday or Tuesday, then couple of hours for tune, will post up results.

Even in third with the bit of lag it's nice and boosty!

Also the AFR in previous tune is all over the places, its leaning straight up after 6200RPMs. is it pinning up top? DVS should be able to touched it up or I guess he would erase it for a completely new tune.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you will end up making a bigger mess. I would just try to find the right size washer and do it properly. Mine eventually sealed without a washer, the coolant forms it's own seal, but I leaked a lot of coolant and made quite a mess before that happened. Take it from me, do it right the first time. The water lines are a bit easier to get back in once they have had time to get used to their new shape. It's not too bad a job.

Edited by Hanaldo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are my result of the G3 FNT

Havent seen any car that can match Stao's results on the same turbo so far, no matter how much everyone tries, I wonder why- they all read 10-30rwkw lower on average

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Havent seen any car that can match Stao's results on the same turbo so far, no matter how much everyone tries, I wonder why- they all read 10-30rwkw lower on average

Thats is because Stao's running lot more boost most of the time which really shows the advantage of a built motor plus the all the expansive supporting mods and he's only uses one of the top tuner in Australia.

He usually post result of a maxed out turbo, no one's crazy enough to run 24~28psi on a stock engine plus their tuners won't let. I hope he can post some results on 15~18psi based.

Edited by GeorgesR34
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.  The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals: Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment? The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.  R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
    • Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
×
×
  • Create New...