Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is a SS1 none PU version. It maxes around 250rwkws with same response as a factory turbo, it never worked on this stegea. So I'm happy to have it upgraded to other series at no additional cost.

This is a SS1 none PU version. It maxes around 250rwkws with same response as a factory turbo, it never worked on this stegea. So I'm happy to have it upgraded to other series at no additional cost.

30rwkw isn't far short, especially considering not many of your customers turbos equal what your test car makes. If you could figure out why it isn't holding boost then I think it would come a lot closer.

30rwkw isn't far short, especially considering not many of your customers turbos equal what your test car makes. If you could figure out why it isn't holding boost then I think it would come a lot closer.

No the average of 250rwkws was taken from 3x different cars. they all run up to about 17.5PSI top end, they were 253, 247 and 245. The final afr is all about 12. The best run of 260rwkws was on 23psi.

I couldn't figure out why its not holding boost on his car. I guess its better to exchange for a SS1PU or G2 a G3 which results are well proven by many people.

Or I can exchange with some thing that comes straight out of my car like the G2 I've done for your self and we ended up with same power.

No the average of 250rwkws was taken from 3x different cars. they all run up to about 17.5PSI top end, they were 253, 247 and 245. But the afr is all about 12. The best run of 260rwkws was on 23psi.

I couldn't figure out why its not holding boost on his car. I guess its better to exchange for a SS1PU or G2 a G3 which results are well proven by many people.

I see, but still not far off.

Thing is, what if the turbo isn't the issue? What happens if whatever replacement turbo you send him then doesn't make power? Doesn't look good.

The turbo it self is bit on the small side as it was only made to do a maximum of 250rwkws with factory response, and it was more responsive then a stock turbo. During that time the FNT housings and billet wheels wasn't developed.

Since he's got forged engine, so its no differ to mine, it doesn't hurt to go bigger and bigger is more consistent with power and boost control.

The strangest thing I noticed is we couldn't get it up to 20psi, the higher reading was at 16psi down to 14psi, he said there was a massive heat soak and the timing was just going ridiculous. On e85 he thinks it could make 250.

For the time being I can't afford another tune, my rego is due, so I can't really change the turbo right now. As much as I would love to.

here is my dyno graph from yesterday. The car is a 96 r33 gtst and has the op6 standard hi flow, nismo 555cc injectors, nismo fuel pump, blitz turnflow cooler (heat wrapped pipes), full 3" exhaust and a metal intake. Real happy with the result, thanks Jez!

dynograph.jpg

Edited by Mitcho_7

Looks like a good clean tune, should run really smooth. Can definitely see the difference between the standard highflow and the SS1PU.

Yeh the ss turbo's build boost faster but can't seem to hold it as well uptop. I had one of staos wastegate mods on initially but the boost wouldn't go below 20+ psi...

Edited by Mitcho_7

Glad ur happy Mitch. If i go to shop later i will overlay ur graph with Kasko's and post it up.

Would love to see this as the ss is $700 more expensive.

Question Jez even if mine could hold the 20 psi through the whole rev range it would still be limited by the detonation above 250kw?

Yes it should make more power. Fuel octane is always an issue when trying to push bigger numbers from a smallish turbo, Say if u had a G3 u can run more power with more boost before u hit the knock limit.

I think due to the turbo design being for as best response as possible the top end has to suffer as it chokes up in the rear housing.

That's cool I'm really happy with the response so I don't want to lower that just for a gain in power.

Maybe once I get bored of the power bit I doubt that would happen any time soon.

Even with the clutch still not replaced I managed to break traction all the way to 3rd gear last night.

Let's just say I won

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done your thinking backwards? 3 bar, 43.5 psi pressure drop being the presumed specification for an injector, means you need 3 bar upstream when they are firing into atmospheric pressure, and more upstream pressure than that when on boost (you add your boost to your rail pressure to maintain 3 bar across the injector) and you need..... less pressure upstream when you have vacuum in the manifold. So, presuming that you're idling at -10 psi, then you only need ~23 psi in the rail. I realise that I did not need to say all of that to you specifically Matt, once you'd realised your mistake. It's mostly there for complete clarity for others.
    • Have you reached out to the guys at Spool Imports? They are a Ross dealer, I can imagine they would have the rings just sitting on the shelf (I could be wrong).  
    • There's one for sale at Grand Auto Wreckers in Lonsdale (SA), for .... let's suggest the sum they're asking for will make you cry. You may have to embrace the idea of modifying the rear subframe to accept some other diff. You could probably find a way to wangle a shortnose into there, with a custom rear adapter and some sort of shenanigans to relocate the front mounts. This has probably already been done by others, so there might be some guidance available as to how easy/impossible it is, out there in the googles. But you possibly needn't restrict yourself to Nissan diffs if you're going to contemplate that. There are similarish Toyota diffs, possibly some Euro ones, possibly some Seppo ones.
    • The ball joint taper and arm taper have to match angle and diameter, but just doing the bushes is a much better option.....seems like the industry moved to "it is cheaper to replace the whole arm than take on the labour for changing this bushes", glad the aftermarket supports it
    • Gee she looks a bit rear heavy in that first pic! Sounds like a great project with the kids, but as I guess you know R series stuff is getting hard to find and pre that is pretty much impossible these days
×
×
  • Create New...