Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had the FNT .82 type B turbine housing in last night along with the modified 6 bolt plate, stao is very helpful. Took it for a quick spin, its lot faster then what it was. the low gear response is very noticeable. It doesn't feels like the car's lazy down low any more. it pulls like a train from start all the way to red burning plenty of tires behind it.

I'll get it to a dyno for a quick check up and compare both results. Definitely worth the time, get it done while its free :yes: .

ps. Ask stao take you for a drive in his 350rwkws Hyperwagon, that thing's gooooooooooooooood.

I think some of yous might be able to help me here instead of starting a new thread. I've got the SS1PU installed, it runs fine and last tuned 262rwkws with miss firing. Since then I've got a set of Yellow jackets, changed CAS, spark plugs and the miss fire is still there. Its fine as daily but on full throttle it would miss and pop. Car is a 95 model R33 with Z32 ECU + Nistune and Z32 AFM with usual supporting mods.

  • Like 1

what plugs/what gap? What fuel pump? what does your dyno graph look like?

need to provide some more info so we can work out what the problem actually is

It has the propery plugs (some thing 7ES) at 0.8mm gap. Its sort of wavey uptop and tuner stopped at around 6000RPMs. We originally throught it was just spark plugs and planed to change them and set it back on the dyno again next day, how ever it didn't fix it. since then I've changed all the other bits and no luck. Can't think of any thing else.

Edited by petero'nell

Miss firing could only be in the ignition setup. whats in it is your coil packs, spark plugs, perhaps looms to the coil packs, if its a S1 then the distributor, and CAS unless few of your injectors are not operating properly. Will be good if you can ask your mate with the same car for a favor to swap mentioned parts to see if a difference is made.

Also this was a billet SS1.5 prototype running off SS1PU's comp with SS2's turbine in a .63 rear housing, that I've tested earlier, this is also an preferably externally gated only turbocharger, now available to any one whom's interested in a fast responding 280rwkws on a high mount external setup.

power.jpg

booost.jpg

My mechanic was saying this can happen when the harmonic balancer is slightly warped. He also said most people chase there tail replacing everything else. Worth a look anyway especially if everything else is in good order...

Do u have another set of coilpacks u can try

Turned out to be coil packs. Tried mate's stock ones and the miss fire went away and far out my car pulls crazy. Ordering a set of split fires, and finishing off the tune. Thanks guys.

This is a OP6 high flow job that we've done back in 2010, just got result sent in recently using factory actuator. I believe this is a pretty decent outcome for such boost level. Turbo is coming back for billet SS1.5 CHRA upgrade, it will be a good base for some comparison of effects from the 1.5's Billet wheel and FNT turbine setup.

257rwkw.JPG

img20120517221144.jpg

What do you guys think of this? Highflowed RB20 turbo on an rb25det neo, it used to make 230-240kw on an r33 motor and fall over at 6500, now it keeps on pulling all the way to 7500 hence the higher power output, dyno reads average/high compared to others in SA so could be closer to 250kw

GCG job with garret BB core and I'm pretty sure GT2871 spec turbine/compressor

Does this seem like a legitimate result with an rb20 turbo housing? it feels like 260kw with 2nd never hooking up on the street, even half throttle it wants to spin up.

boost - ran it up on 19psi but i would still taper down to 17psi with the controller and only made 5kw more in the midrange

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/9011/img20120517221202.jpg

afr - detuned to 11.5:1 and made 254kw for safety.

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/959/img20120517221116.jpg

Edited by Rolls

It is a respectable result. I don't have results from high flowed R32 turbos to R33 yet, however to me the R33 turbine and R32 turbine housings are identical. I've had 2x GCG's R33 high flowed turbos came in for service in the past years and the turbine that they've had was a cropped TA34 Siera wheel, which is fine for that sort of housings.

Power wise 250rwkws seems to be the limit of what I call a good drivability configuration for the R33 high flows. I haven't trailed it person but customer's result revealed similar output.

263rwkws.jpg

253rwkwsop6highflow.JPG

There are other prototype profiles that I've trailed in the 21U rear housings, due to limitation of size, extracting power requires a large frame turbine, by doing so I've managed 293rwkws however the drivability is not desirable.

3576297.jpg

The power delivery of a massive turbine wheel in a tinny housing felt more linear (don't get me wrong, lots of people are chasing it). While a larger turbine housing with a smaller turbine wheel felt more dynamic (SS1PU's core design).

The SS1.5's CHRA in a OP6 high flow should produce aggressive power delivery, with better response to standard standard high flow profile. I'll be looking forward the trail when Trent's dyno is back on duty.

Thats a nice results Rolls, something I would want in a lightweight RB powered car. Maybe a RB S13 or similar, which I might recommend to a mate who has exactly that.

Personally I would say something more aggressive would be better in an R33 and up, for the weight/pull factor.

It appears the preferred out come for a GTT skyline would be linear and torquey down low with lots of power to burn tyres up top. That is when I engage acceleration the car produces a smooth and consistent pull that leads to a massive wheel spin. The SS and Type B rear housings were designed to encourage that behavior, that is obviously in combination of working with suitable supporting mods and an excellent tune map.

Flat spot with a sudden wheel spin means the combination is oversized for the engine, not preferred unless it is engineered for massive top end suitable for drag strips, We certainly don't use that in a bolton or high flow application unless been requested.

It appears the preferred out come for a GTT skyline would be linear and torquey down low with lots of power to burn tyres up top. That is when I engage acceleration the car produces a smooth and consistent pull that leads to a massive wheel spin. The SS and Type B rear housings were designed to encourage that behavior, that is obviously in combination of working with suitable supporting mods and an excellent tune map.

Flat spot with a sudden wheel spin is not preferred unless it is engineered for a huge amount of top end power on drag strips.

Doesn't help with track times though :(

But having said that it also depending on how much power is needed and purpose of setup such as types of suspension, wheels tyres and driver's skills. The combination of turbo can be altered significantly to suit the purpose of the upgrade. Ie, I don't think my 350rwkws setup can out run John with 247rwkws setup in a tight track, how ever in a big and open track would be otherwise.

I used to run a larger turbo for Winton, and a smaller one for Calder.

The 350rwkws was made by a G2.5 in a type B rear housing on E85 internally gated. The G3 on type A internally gated housing made 358rwkws with 7 degrees regarded timing in fear of bending con-roads. It should be sitting around the 390rwkws mark with time added.

This is the G3 we just pulled off the neo motor. Looking at the rear weld on adaptor it looks very restrictive. It has a big lip inside and as u can see by the soot marks the 3inch dump pipe ismuch bigger that the actual outlet

flangeold2.JPG

Now it is:

flangeold.jpg

With all broken studs removed of course.

2ndly before installation I found the actuator had been short lengthen to lower boost. Doing so leaves the wastegate unsealed causing massive amount of lag. And that is a lag caused by negligence. It must be held shut and loaded as photo shown on the right, do contact me for a lower psi actuator if lower boost is preferred for what ever reason, but don't unload the supplied actuator, it does not mean the same thing.

actuator.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...