Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Awesomeness

Whilst I would agree that an intangible thought process or emotion expressed as a singular praise word might be a fairer comparison for the "rolling thunder, force of nature deus" that is the SS1PU...I would like to see a mortal at least attempt to compare it to something more tangible and preferably metallic.

Whilst I would agree that an intangible thought process or emotion expressed as a singular praise word might be a fairer comparison for the "rolling thunder, force of nature deus" that is the SS1PU...I would like to see a mortal at least attempt to compare it to something more tangible and preferably metallic.

My balls.

Of steel.

What would you say the SS1PU is equivalent to?

custom spec 71mm compressor, which should spool as good as a 52 trim but make more power than a 56.

turbine is similar to a GT28 but slightly enlarged. Combats choke and surge experienced on an actual 2871/GTRS.

in essence our cries were heard that we wanted a GTRS competitor. Stao went one better :)

an SS2 is the same compressor on an enlarged GT30 style rear wheel. So a hyper 3071.

I hope I was allowed to share this data :O

an SS2 is the same compressor on an enlarged GT30 style rear wheel. So a hyper 3071.

Had to read this a few times...prob due to just waking up.

So bigger turbine but same spec compressor as 3071. Correct?

Although prob lighter comp wheel I guess

Its more of the wheel sizes are similar, the actual trim and blade profiles are very different.

Here is a ATR43G4 (big turbo) that's been recently installed on a R33 stock Auto and shift kit with 98. I think thats the most I've seen out of a auto so far and its only on 16.5 psi of boost.

20121108_155021.jpg

Might have found most of my mid range low power issue this morning.

Exhaust cam was 3.5 crank degrees retarded. Adjusted to 0 (115 btdc)

Inlet was 6 crank degrees retarded. Have maxed the adjustment getting it to 2.5 degrees. Waiting for my son to have a nap so I can jump the belt a tooth and adjust it to 0 (120 atdc)

Also waiting for a quote on a new cat-back system to be made at a mates business. Need to get the bell mouth off and open that up before it goes on.

Hopefully will catch up to everyone down low

Edited by t_revz

Good work Trev! I knew cams would be out!

Can u please share the secret to dialing these? Ive just finished assembling my SR and need to do some dialeroo

*leans in closer*

Hey Martin I've bought a degree wheel to go on the crank and made a piston stopper using an old spark plug and threading a bolt through it so you'd welcome to borrow.

Set to TDC visually. Install degree wheel with TDC about where pointer will be. Wind clockwise 30-40 degrees. Fit piston stopper. Wind backwards and record number. Wind forward til it touches and record number. Average of these is true TDC. Adjust pointer to zero at that position. Remove piston stopper

Set dial indicator on lifter bucket of no1. Rotate to ensure it doesn't get caught as there is stuff all room. Wind til at max lift and zero dial gauge. Rotate around til .050" before max lift and record number. Rotate past max lift back to .050" and record number. Quick calculation to find the average will give you max lift degrees. Compare to manufacturers spec to see if its correct. Adjust as necessary.

Very quick explanation as I'm busy ATM.

You need a degree wheel, dial indicator, piston stopper and tooling to remove balancer at least.

Finally got my car tuned today with the SS3-eg.... pretty disappointed in the result... only made 287.5 kw.

Something must be going on because I think it should be making a bit more, I was def hoping for something over 300.

I was trying to run it on 20psi, but it was only getting to 18-19 and then dropping off to 17ish.. Ive only got the 7psi spring in the gate and the boost controller is maxed out.

Im going to try and put the bigger spring in and hopefully get it steady at 20psi and see what happens.

It was heaps weird, when we had it on the dyno the first run made 285, then we ended up throwing 7deg more timing into it and leaning it out more and it made absolutely no difference.

Setup is:

- SS3-eg

- 6boost manifold

- 50mm turbosmart gate running screamer

- 3" exhaust with only 1 rear cannon

- Greddy inlet manifold

- E85

What do yas think?

got a venom hi flow metalic cat, the cooler seemed to be doing its job, on the dyno it was hot on one side and cold on the other, but I suppose it could be a restriction.

I didnt want to spend heaps on a cooler as they just get fked up so quickly, and I end up just changing them out

that doesnt sound right.. you describe it at really simple which should work in theory.

Whats done to the motor itself? Whats changed (other than turbo side) since the last time it made decent power? I dont think the turbo side could be slowing it down, other than exhaust but that sounds pretty sweet.. If its all 3" straight anyway.

So that leaves a crappy intercooler, intake restrictions or possible mechanical issues with the motor.

Need to consider changes the most, like I said..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...