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That is a cropped version of the TD06 turbine, that would shift power band to mid high range.

Not what what I meant. Different people call teh different wheels different things.

What is the difference between the Greddy T67-25G and the Greddy TD06H-25G ?

TD06H

gallery_462_50_231537.jpg

A T67-25G (on the left)

med_gallery_462_50_153163.jpg

Its not simply a cropped wheel. Its 11 blade vs 12 blade and the 12 blade TD06H isd actually a bigger diameter turbine. Thats why the T67-25G exhaust housing doesnt bolt on to the TD06H-20G

Or soem better photos I have taken

TD06H

med_gallery_462_50_131724.jpg

L2 Turbine

med_gallery_462_50_127727.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_218678.jpg

Side by side

med_gallery_462_50_113969.jpg

25G Compressor

med_gallery_462_50_76394.jpg

73HTA Compressor

med_gallery_462_50_177446.jpg

And this is what happens when you put the TD06H housing on the L2

med_gallery_462_50_47822.jpg

There has always been confusion surrounding the T67 25G.

Per the kando variant it is a TD06SL2 25G, which I believe is the correct item.

Some people think its a TD06H 25G.

Roy you have a genuine item on shelf, why not just clarify with the calipers?

Yeh wheel spin in 1st when I launched, otherwise I was bogging down.

Let me know when you're thinking of going down again, would be good to compare on the night. Trev, you get up here too! :P

My water meth kit is done, just waiting to change exhaust and cold air intake then retune

Need more overtime shifts to pay for it all :(

Could be turbo design, boost leak, some kind of restriction - is it ball bearing? What was the temperature like on the day by the way? Also, what kind of dyno was it tuned on? One of the reasons I said anything is mine was trapping higher and running quicker times (14.0 @ 110mph even with a TOTAL bogged launch - ~3s 60ft, then missed second gear completely etc when a mate who has a stock turbo R33 had a go) with ~260-270kw @ hubs on 15psi and going by most people here's comments etc that power should be about equivalent to 240kw "Oz dyno" type numbers.

Regardless, I remember when I was running 108-109mph in my car - doesn't make for a slow car by any means, no doubt well worth being happy with but in one way or another it potentially could be a bit quicker with that power.

Turbo is bush bearing I believe. Ambient temperature was 28 degrees, 59% humidity and 7 knot head winds. Dunno how much of a difference that makes. Was tuned on a Dyno Dynamics roller dyno.

The car definitely doesn't feel slow, and over the last half of the track I was catching most of my opponents, I think it was only that silver ute in that vid that started pulling away from me. It's just disappointing that the car always seems to make decent numbers on any dyno it goes on and the tuners don't have anything to say about it, then something happens that undermines that result and tells me it isn't actually making that power. Frustrating with the amount of money that has gone into it, I'd just like to know where to start looking to get it running to it's full potential.

Quick question I might chuck in here.

How do you miss a gear?!

Especially going from 1st to 2nd

How do you go first to 3rd?

Yeh as Lithium said, for me it was slight retardation and too much excitement :P I missed 3rd by trying to change too fast and trying to jam it somewhere between 1st and 3rd. Missed second by hitting the gate and not getting it into gear. Calmed down on my third run and managed to get things smooth, but I like to rev too much :P

Thought some of the guys in here might be interested in this. Video I took earlier today of me in my R34 with ATR43 G3 (350rwhp) vs Jay-rod in his R34 with ATR43 G2.5 (340rwhp):

This is another interesting point. J-Rod made 340rwhp with his G2.5, and I beat him in all the runs we had.

J-Rod. Get your car to Kwinana, I want a comparison! :P

There has always been confusion surrounding the T67 25G.

Per the kando variant it is a TD06SL2 25G, which I believe is the correct item.

Some people think its a TD06H 25G.

Roy you have a genuine item on shelf, why not just clarify with the calipers?

I know the difference in Trust/Greddy speak :) Others are the ones getting confused :) You are right. In Greddy /Trust speak the T67-25G is in Kando speak a TD06SL2 25G

I mentioned TD06H turbine on the bigger FP HTA compressors as they need the bigger turbines for the added torque to spin the compressor . Stao commented.

That is a cropped version of the TD06 turbine, that would shift power band to mid high range. It increases the total dispatching area of a turbine wheel. I used to crop the Sierra S3 turbine wheels ....

I was pointing out we are talking about different things. My TD06H was the bigger diameter turbine with different diam shaft and different number of blades TD06H. I am not sure what back cut wheel he is thinking about .

I have a bigger than 73HTA "Roy Spec" TD06H thing for my stroker to go on in after i cut laps around Albert Park at the Aus GP. :) That will scare 400rwkws on E85 without any lame ass need for lame ass RB25 :) But first lets see tyres blazing from the 73HTA :)

muahaha sounds nice.

i am starting concepts for development of my next stage too, the motor will remain the same but once funds permit and i have had my fun with the HG bolt on i will aim for 500whp myself.

Ok, Lets make a TD06H, probably a good base trailing the billet 90mm 750HP comp wheel that I'm making for the Ford XR6 BA, might need 12 Cm turbine.

I can engineer the comp wheel to suit any sort of shaft, back plate and bearing housing. not a big issue. I will probably do few runs with it after I get proper cams done. By the looks of the TD06H turbine that size should be good for internal gating on a Rb25det also.

Putting the BB SS2 back on dyno next week on high mount setup as well as the SS1PU. Up to this stage the BB SS2 steel felt the best on road in terms of overall drivability. video footage of it with the latest oil delivery setup.

Will post results against the other two once finished.

You can try and blocking up the BOV. that do help with boost lose between gear shift.

i think alternately run that on a external high mount setup and crank 24psi.

The G3 turbocharger was making 370rwkws on a high mount external gate setup which is definitely a big end turbocharger. I have few tricks that I'll be trailing next week and hopefully that helps with turbo's response and down low torque.

There was a covering up sleeve that Garrett made for their Lemans track car's turbocharger back in the days. I can't remember what that turbo was called, it was very similar to a 2860RS with a billet comp wheel.

I had a chat about it with a Garrett engineer which we do some work with, he did mention the purpose of doing was by reducing induction and exducing area of the compressor housing would accelerate the velocity of air dispatched from turbocharger's compressor. There for gain response while trade off top end power. I will do a trail on that with the G3 and see if that gain any noticable differences. will post photos as I go.

Putting the BB SS2 back on dyno next week on high mount setup as well as the SS1PU. Up to this stage the BB SS2 steel felt the best on road in terms of overall drivability. video footage of it with the latest oil delivery setup.

Will post results against the other two once finished.

Run your ball bearing cores with your new billet TD06s, I'm sure that will turn plenty of eye balls.

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