Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

guys FYI the following is 400 bucks delivered:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261045441228?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1390wt_1397

that is a GTR item which will work on any 240mm push type nissan clutch, RB25/SR20 included.

the clamp load is 1100kg so 300kw shouldnt be an issue. drivability will be as close to stock as possible.

hope that helps, NPC are good but you will be stunned @ the price.

guys FYI the following is 400 bucks delivered:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261045441228?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1390wt_1397

that is a GTR item which will work on any 240mm push type nissan clutch, RB25/SR20 included.

the clamp load is 1100kg so 300kw shouldnt be an issue. drivability will be as close to stock as possible.

hope that helps, NPC are good but you will be stunned @ the price.

Hey Scott,

I think those are the Exedy HD (re-manufactured pink cover ones). The Exedy Sports (silver cover) are the ones you want, the pink ones are terrible, I have had one before uneven wear on the friction plate not to mention you often hear people complain about them on various forums. And pedal feel of Exedy vs. NPC, Exedy pedal is super heavy not to mention people end up breaking pivots as well.

Hey Scott,

I think those are the Exedy HD (re-manufactured pink cover ones). The Exedy Sports (silver cover) are the ones you want, the pink ones are terrible, I have had one before uneven wear on the friction plate not to mention you often hear people complain about them on various forums. And pedal feel of Exedy vs. NPC, Exedy pedal is super heavy not to mention people end up breaking pivots as well.

The re mfg pink cover is made in Australia, the rest of the world gets the japanese MFG silver cover item. That clutch is coming from the UK.

You can also tell by the box where it says 'exedy racing clutch' with Daiken logos. Where as the said pink cover clutch will come with the ghey 'sports tuff' box.

Excuse my ignorance, but is clamping load all that determines if a clutch can handle a particular power level? I would have thought power delivery, torque, driving usage type etc all affects it also??

The friction material itself obviously affects the amount of torque that the clutch can transmit. If you have a higher coefficient of friction, you get more grip out of the same clamping force. The detailed design of the clutch affects the way that the raw clamping force is distributed across the plate(s), which will also affect how good the clutch is. Simply think of that as the clutch being 95% efficient, or 85% efficient, depending on how well it uses the total clamping force available.

Clutches can be (and usually are) generally "rated" at a certain power level on a given engine because the diameter is essentially fixed across most clutches for that engine and the torque/power delivery variables are almost fixed. Move the exact same clutch over to some different engine and the rating might have to be tweaked. If you take driving style into consideration, then the "power rating" of the clutch assumes a perfect driving style and you would sensibly de-rate the clutch for any non-perfect driving (whether that be the usage model or the clumsiness of the driver, etc).

Yeh start doesn't affect mph much.

Well. Guess that explains our runs at Powercruise. Either we are both hugely down on power, or our turbos are extremely laggy between gear changes.

I say laggy between gear changes.
Im pretty sure if i got a good run i would most likely do around 14.1

Am i changing gears wrong? should i be flat footing the whole way and riding the clutch in gear changes lol???

101mph? That'd have to be a HELL of a launch etc to do low 13s or 12s off that, with slicks at least. 101mph is reasonably typical for high 13s/low 14s on a clean run. What power and type of car are we talking? With reasonable spool I'd be expecting under 200kw from an R33 - if it is much over 200kw then its not a driver issue, it is something to do with how the power is delivered (which could include how much power there is).

I will take mine to the drags after i get my turbo back from Stao and retuned. See how it likes ~6000rpm clutch dumps on MT's

thats it, teach that c*nt a lesson

hopefully i can borrow a go pro and can video me trying to rip the gearstick out the back window (as said by Jez himself on a prior test drive)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...