Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

guys FYI the following is 400 bucks delivered:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261045441228?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1390wt_1397

that is a GTR item which will work on any 240mm push type nissan clutch, RB25/SR20 included.

the clamp load is 1100kg so 300kw shouldnt be an issue. drivability will be as close to stock as possible.

hope that helps, NPC are good but you will be stunned @ the price.

guys FYI the following is 400 bucks delivered:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261045441228?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1390wt_1397

that is a GTR item which will work on any 240mm push type nissan clutch, RB25/SR20 included.

the clamp load is 1100kg so 300kw shouldnt be an issue. drivability will be as close to stock as possible.

hope that helps, NPC are good but you will be stunned @ the price.

Hey Scott,

I think those are the Exedy HD (re-manufactured pink cover ones). The Exedy Sports (silver cover) are the ones you want, the pink ones are terrible, I have had one before uneven wear on the friction plate not to mention you often hear people complain about them on various forums. And pedal feel of Exedy vs. NPC, Exedy pedal is super heavy not to mention people end up breaking pivots as well.

Hey Scott,

I think those are the Exedy HD (re-manufactured pink cover ones). The Exedy Sports (silver cover) are the ones you want, the pink ones are terrible, I have had one before uneven wear on the friction plate not to mention you often hear people complain about them on various forums. And pedal feel of Exedy vs. NPC, Exedy pedal is super heavy not to mention people end up breaking pivots as well.

The re mfg pink cover is made in Australia, the rest of the world gets the japanese MFG silver cover item. That clutch is coming from the UK.

You can also tell by the box where it says 'exedy racing clutch' with Daiken logos. Where as the said pink cover clutch will come with the ghey 'sports tuff' box.

Excuse my ignorance, but is clamping load all that determines if a clutch can handle a particular power level? I would have thought power delivery, torque, driving usage type etc all affects it also??

The friction material itself obviously affects the amount of torque that the clutch can transmit. If you have a higher coefficient of friction, you get more grip out of the same clamping force. The detailed design of the clutch affects the way that the raw clamping force is distributed across the plate(s), which will also affect how good the clutch is. Simply think of that as the clutch being 95% efficient, or 85% efficient, depending on how well it uses the total clamping force available.

Clutches can be (and usually are) generally "rated" at a certain power level on a given engine because the diameter is essentially fixed across most clutches for that engine and the torque/power delivery variables are almost fixed. Move the exact same clutch over to some different engine and the rating might have to be tweaked. If you take driving style into consideration, then the "power rating" of the clutch assumes a perfect driving style and you would sensibly de-rate the clutch for any non-perfect driving (whether that be the usage model or the clumsiness of the driver, etc).

Yeh start doesn't affect mph much.

Well. Guess that explains our runs at Powercruise. Either we are both hugely down on power, or our turbos are extremely laggy between gear changes.

I say laggy between gear changes.
Im pretty sure if i got a good run i would most likely do around 14.1

Am i changing gears wrong? should i be flat footing the whole way and riding the clutch in gear changes lol???

101mph? That'd have to be a HELL of a launch etc to do low 13s or 12s off that, with slicks at least. 101mph is reasonably typical for high 13s/low 14s on a clean run. What power and type of car are we talking? With reasonable spool I'd be expecting under 200kw from an R33 - if it is much over 200kw then its not a driver issue, it is something to do with how the power is delivered (which could include how much power there is).

I will take mine to the drags after i get my turbo back from Stao and retuned. See how it likes ~6000rpm clutch dumps on MT's

thats it, teach that c*nt a lesson

hopefully i can borrow a go pro and can video me trying to rip the gearstick out the back window (as said by Jez himself on a prior test drive)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...