Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can you put this into one of those stainless Tial housings??

If so sort out the actuation mechanism and I will put one on the car ASAP.

Another customer's result from the latest ATR43G3 high mounted (ebay manifold), 38mm externally gated on a R33 Rb25det running 327rwkws @ 21psi on pump 98 fuel.

This sheet doesn't have boost reading, been told its making full boost around 3800rpms.

RPM scale = (SPEED / 28) * 1000

atr43ss2rajab.jpg

IIRC Rajab racing do a few good RB30 things. Don't think their dyno would be over inflated, so thats a decent result.

The spool seems close too, the run ends at 180kmh which I assume is 7000rpm. So.. 7000/180 x 100 = 3888 (3900). Normally tuners dont rev a normal 25 to 7, the runs end at 6600 or so which would mean the spool is even better than that.

Nice result. I am guessing this is with your new T3 architecture?

No, no. I know its not VNT.

I thought you said in the last couple of pages that something had been changed to increase flow? It helped another customers IWG result from memory.

One of the goal in the latest development was aerodynamic efficiency at reasonable shaft speed, which helps with boost control in higher rpm range, and I mentioned earlier that it required very little wastegate duty to stabilize boost.

This is what I meant sorry. I must have confused myself because this appears to be related to the compressor design, which is unrelated to a G3 entirely lol

IRC Rajab racing do a few good RB30 things. Don't think their dyno would be over inflated, so thats a decent result.

The spool seems close too, the run ends at 180kmh which I assume is 7000rpm. So.. 7000/180 x 100 = 3888 (3900). Normally tuners dont rev a normal 25 to 7, the runs end at 6600 or so which would mean the spool is even better than that.

Nice result. I am guessing this is with your new T3 architecture?

I got 330rwkws on 24psi at Status with the older version, So there isn't that much of variances between those dynos.

Jay-Jod: Was the video taken with a Gopro camera?

My First ever track day with my trusty hypergear :)

In 2 weeks is my next one, in the day, and i wont be going easy like this video :P :P

Nice mate, it looks like you are really enjoying that car. I envy you!

After months and months of being off the road i finally got my R33 driving! It now has the BB ATR43G3 type B rear housing (internal gate) making 336rwhp on 24psi, fullboost by 4000rpm. Previous tune by the same tuner was 346rwhp on 17 psi, fullboost by 4200-4300rpm.

I know the power figures are low but it could be because of various things to do with my setup or the motor i chose to rebuild, also the dyno reads low from what they tell me.

Anyway some things i've noticed, its hitting 24psi by pretty much bang on 4000rpm which is a nice improvement. Before i couldnt remember it losing traction in 2nd gear (265 wide federal RSR's), now it likes to wiggle and step out even if im dead straight, not sure if thats because of the temperature change or what.

The best thing about it though is the almost instant boost recovery when changing gears, its like night and day compared to the previous ATR43G3. I dont think i even count half a second until i hear it back on song again, so nice job Stao. :)

Good stuff jay-rod! Smashed my 65 second short track pb lol, my 1st time on Barbagello also. Are you gonna enter the jacks hill hill climb event on the 16th?

Edited by LANDSCRIBBLE

After months and months of being off the road i finally got my R33 driving! It now has the BB ATR43G3 type B rear housing (internal gate) making 336rwhp on 24psi, fullboost by 4000rpm. Previous tune by the same tuner was 346rwhp on 17 psi, fullboost by 4200-4300rpm.

I know the power figures are low but it could be because of various things to do with my setup or the motor i chose to rebuild, also the dyno reads low from what they tell me.

Anyway some things i've noticed, its hitting 24psi by pretty much bang on 4000rpm which is a nice improvement. Before i couldnt remember it losing traction in 2nd gear (265 wide federal RSR's), now it likes to wiggle and step out even if im dead straight, not sure if thats because of the temperature change or what.

The best thing about it though is the almost instant boost recovery when changing gears, its like night and day compared to the previous ATR43G3. I dont think i even count half a second until i hear it back on song again, so nice job Stao. :)

Good stuff jay-rod! Smashed my 65 second short track pb lol, my 1st time on Barbagello also. Are you gonna enter the jacks hill hill climb event on the 16th?

Kilowatts or Horsepower? there are RB20's making 200Kw with hypergear hiflows

Good to know the BB core with the new compressor setup is making a difference. It shouldn't be stepping back in power on more boost, might want to go over again making sure engine side is correctly assembled.

They are the ATR43SS4 models, They are rarely built for a Skyline, but I've done a few for Forx XR6 customers, They are a mild high flow for the BAs. One customer reported 398rwkws With auto on 98 but I haven't seen the sheet yet.

I'm building one with the VNT turbine, hopefully I can get 450rwkws with stock cams and E85 while making full boost before 4000RPMs.

I'm building one with the VNT turbine, hopefully I can get 450rwkws with stock cams and E85 while making full boost before 4000RPMs.

Wow that would make for an interesting dyno plot, what kind of boost are you aiming at shoving into it to make make that power on stock cams? I imagine most of it!

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2

It became harder to gain kws after 390rwkws. Well just need more boost. You don't need cams lol. I think I will be running towards 25~30psi for that sort of power on stock cams.

I'll be getting a set of pon cams for some thing like this.

Dynoed my car tonight..it made 258rwkw on 17psi with 20 degrees of timing, thats all it would take without pinging, on a mainline dyno, The tuner told me the dyno reads 20rwkw lower than most DD at that level., thats on 98 octane.

car won't make any power after 19psi dropping to 17psi..tried 21psi to 19psi and it nosed over and made less..

next pull made 220, then 190....

I am not sure whats going on, but the guys said every stagea they every had does it, as the auto gets hotter, let it cool and it goes back up.

said only auto stageas do it..f**k knows i have never seen this before...

Anyway hooked up water meth and straight away and over next 5 runs added 10 degrees of timing over whole map(17psi..30 degrees up top)....stopped there as i felt that was enough, ended up with a E85 timing map..

268rwkw on 17psi..

600cc of water/meth at 50/50 weight, car has 1.1 plug gap(7's) and 18V volt spark amplier(like hks twin power), no misses at all

On the road, it spools quick, definitly no lag builds boost by 2500rpm, and pulls and pulls and pulls all the way to 7000rpm..but its very linear, gets stronger as you rev it, like

a plane going down a runway..more like a large capacity motor.its deceptively fast, but not what im used to, im used to .a more brutal delivery i guess

have to get wife to take me for a spin

ill put up the timing maps in the next few days

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...