Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


Recommended Posts

I think its not a bad result for a auto considering its usually 20kws behind a manual box. What does a locked convert do? I'm thinking of working out my Kia's auto.

its not a bad result, before we used wmi, it made 258rwkw, and at that time they said they have done 5 3076 56T .82 setups

on stageas and that the good ones got into the 250's on same boost and all 5 where out of puff the same, even the ones they owned personally... i woudn't run that timing though, id pull 2 degrees out if it was a 98 tune, and it was on the knife edge

In all truth, the wmi let me run 12 degrees more timing when you take that into account...lol

..theres a few thing i can check, and a few things that happened that i'll keep to myself and see if the theorys workout,I'll revisit the dyno in a month or so one night.

Im happy with the turbo and everything, just want to make sure its all working as well as it can

cheers

darren

Link to comment
Share on other sites

converter locked, not letting cool down really, 2 massive transcoolers, one has a thermo, total overkill..lol

yeh its fast,it would be deceptively quick but even my mates vl that runs 10.3@133 doesn't feel quick to me either, thats linear to in its delivery

my mates brother has a car that we use for a guidepost..R34 270rwkw on 17-18psi, 12.00@117mph. ill see how it goes against that, my mates 338rwkw stagea flogs it

cheers

darren

Hey Daz was actually looking at that r34s dyno sheet when we got back from the dynoing your stag, it has a very progressive curve makes 281rwkw on 21 psi . It's also more sluggish in spool than yours .
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes the atr28g4 is a of a .64 ended t25 turbine housing and that makes 300rwkws on a ca18det. Just abit laggy.

haha..my bad, thats a huge bitch. And i wasn't thinking. I meant to say a Ca18 T25 housing, the .48 ones

Something that would fit in that housing, but give greater flow than standard turbo and good response still

for a 1.5L non crossflow motor on 20-25psi..talking 150-170rwkw. i guess.

Be good if it could still bolt in a .64 housing later for testing purposes

Something that would make 210rwkw ish on a sr20 on 98 with best response may be in the ballpark ish

even a standard Sr20 T28 would be decent, just wondered if you had something better..

cheers

darren

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just installed my hiflow atr28g2 with new .64 rear housing and fnt mod on my sr20det

Feels more responsive already untuned than my td05h18g and its only on 1bar for now till I get it tuned in a few weeks

Giving it 3/4 throttle comes on quite smoothly from 3500rpm on where as my previous turbo had nothing till after 4000rpm also has a slight whistle to it as it boosting up from 2000rpm on.

Is this normal as it has fnt ?

Sound very similar to the semi trailer trucks

Hoping its makes similar power that I had before but better response previously had 264rwkw with a td05g18g 24psi dropping to 21psi by 4000rpm on eflex

I'm going to run 22psi response wise I can feel its definately going to be better just hoping it makes the power

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could be induction sound?Just make sure it has plenty of clean oil supply and none restrictive oil feeding line, it should be fine. Make sure it has 3inch free flow induction and exhaust before going to the dyno. Preload actuator as you go if more boost is required.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

or hks 2530 type sizing , but fitted in .48 housing..

cheers

darren

Darren just buy my HKS 2535.no more lag than a 2530. And on a ca18det would be crazy fun alround. Comes with dump oil water lines. $950ono. .64 rear. I had one on my s13 ca18det 8-9 years ago and was mental fun. Done 15,000km in 5-6yrs, bought néw from created in Melbourne. Just a thought. Perfect condition. Come off my r33. It's still on there matter a fact. Could even put it in the .48 housing as you mentioned above and sell the HKS rear. ???

But I'd leave .64 cos.48 would choke it wouldn't it Darren ?? Anyway just a offer mate. Sorry to pinch the thread. ;)

Cheers Josh.

Edited by Joshbigt62r
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Darren just buy my HKS 2535.no more lag than a 2530. And on a ca18det would be crazy fun alround. Comes with dump oil water lines. $950ono. .64 rear. I had one on my s13 ca18det 8-9 years ago and was mental fun. Done 15,000km in 5-6yrs, bought néw from created in Melbourne. Just a thought. Perfect condition. Come off my r33. It's still on there matter a fact. Could even put it in the .48 housing as you mentioned above and sell the HKS rear. ???

But I'd leave .64 cos.48 would choke it wouldn't it Darren ?? Anyway just a offer mate. Sorry to pinch the thread. ;)

Cheers Josh.

lol, its not for a ca18, and i have used a hks 2530 on these motors 12ish yrs ago..was just wondering what stao had. its not for me, i just sold a mint 2530 for $600 last month as i had it sitting in a box for 7 yrs

cheers

'darren

Edited by jet_r31
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also depending on the compression ratio of the motor its going to fit. For a modern 10.5 : 1 motor, a slightly larger turbine end is helpful on stopping it from pining on higher boost level. Like a 1.5L engine on that sort of compression ratio should be pretty responsive with a .64 turbine end with a 68mm compressor if the goal is about 24psi.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

no stao, 8.5.1 comp, 2 valve , non crossflow, poor flowing head toyota k motor head.

can you fit a larger turbine than standard T28 spec stuff in the .48 T25 housing out of interest?

cheers

darren

yes I have made couple of turbine wheels that goes into the T28's bearing housings. This is mine personal CA18det turbocharger out of my Sil180 few years ago. I've made this after been defected to pass EPA with (it worked). lol

It has a small 52 76mm comp wheel with a massive 65mm turbine.

cahiflow1.JPG

cahiflow2.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.  The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals: Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment? The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.  R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
    • Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
×
×
  • Create New...