Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gtsboy youre from sa yeah? I may know of one of those guys you are talking about.

He will most likely be doing my heads

I'm guessing TK. If so, good choice. He and I have fought like cats and dogs over minor technical points because we speak completely different languages for the exact same stuff. But there is no arguing about his capability.

Was some interesting conversation in there, look forward to seeing what "way forward" is chosen for the choked-on-SS2 car ends up with... assuming it has decent cams etc too?

Add some pretty interesting update. This is a Kando TD05 16G that was sent in for a high flow job. Using our SS1.5 compressor wheel:

This is machined kando housing with original 16G comp wheel

IMAG1944.jpg

With our SS1.5 compressor wheel:

IMAG1948.jpg

I don't like the anti surge slots in this housing. how ever the owner wish to keep them for the looks. lol. it should pump up the original TD05's peek efficiency by roughly 10%.

Nice - very keen to see the results on that, we are using the same turbo on a couple of SR20s. Is there likely to be comparison results from that setup?

Been asked about running a ATR43G4 on that car which is a 3582 equivalent. Sure it won't be chocking on it any more, don't know what lag it will be at. Its on stock cams with head porting. Been told a turboed Volvo they worked on earlier have done the same thing, which is all tidied up with a larger turbocharger.

With that high flow, I'm not very happy with the anti surge holes thats on there, I'm sure Kando just did that to look pretty without knowing the physical impact of what it does. Run this comp wheel with SS1PU's turbine end, you will beat you current TD05 result in both response and power.

Been asked about running a ATR43G4 on that car which is a 3582 equivalent. Sure it won't be chocking on it any more, don't know what lag it will be at. Its on stock cams with head porting. Been told a turboed Volvo they worked on earlier have done the same thing, which is all tidied up with a larger turbocharger.

Way to find more area under the curve. I hope it ends up faster around the track than it was stock... Lets have a guess, 20psi by 5k? :P

Better VNT that sucker Stao...

With that high flow, I'm not very happy with the anti surge holes thats on there, I'm sure Kando just did that to look pretty without knowing the physical impact of what it does. Run this comp wheel with SS1PU's turbine end, you will beat you current TD05 result in both response and power.

Its different to the full SS1 PU? From memory GTScoTT runs a billet SS1 PU (I could be mistaken, I'm still getting used to names and conventions) on his SR20 and it is laggier than the Kinugawa TD05 (same as you pictured above with antisurge) - we are seeing 18psi under 3500rpm in 3rd gear, or by 3500rpm on the dyno on a stock engine. Antisurge hasn't appeared to cost any performance, but it would be interesting to see what the spool and power difference is with your high flow as the engine will not stay stock forever and I hae no doubt that your highflow is capable of more power

Lith the compressor he mentioned is his SS1.5 item which is 64mm od :) My SS1PU is 71mm od comp (similar in physical size to a 2871).

SS1PU is the largest out of all.

Some thing similar to the TD05 is the ATR28G2 which HY_RPM is using:

cnf7.jpg

Better response and more power already. SS1.5 is better then that.

I'm not sure the G2 is that much more responsive Stao.. On the day I picked up my car it felt a lot laggier than it does now. The motor has really loosened up since the tune day...

Attached is my graph which I have posted before. You will see that the G2 is at full boost between the 3750 and 4000 markers, meaning at best it would be 200rpm more responsive than my SS1PU. Remember also the conditions under which my car was tuned, and that it is only running pump 98.

post-43588-0-78925100-1375329100_thumb.jpg

Cheers for clarifying, as I mentioned I am not sure on the specs - you can surely see how I'd assume an SS1 would be smaller or more responsive than an SS1.5?

Instead of speculating (there are too many claims of these HG turbos doing everything infinitely better than all of its competition without back to back proof) can you confirm the question I asked, is there going to be a comparison between the original TD05 and the new HG hybrid version? It would be very interesting to see

Just did an overlay of mine and another members SS1PU's
Running similar setups except his is a return flow intercooler.

Mine is running the 20psi actuator with greddy profec bspec 2

His is running off his 15psi or 14psi actuator.

Same dyno as well and same tuner.

What do you guys think about the results?

7Z17Nvc.jpg

Yours is the red lines yeah? That's a bit ghey. Your boost drop off is costing you a lot of power at the top end. Your 2 psi of extra boost over the last 15km/h only buys you ~10rwkW. 6 psi extra in the midrange is buying you 30rwkW. If you had that extra 4 psi all the way to the top you'd maintain 30rwkW all the way to the top. And that would probably make sense.

So I will have to look at preloading my wastegate.

Can you purchase better aftermarket actuators?

From what I remember it was pinging at the 250 mark so was backed off slightly. Would it have the same limitation if I was to get it to hold the 20psi throughout the rev range?

Not much of a difference for 5 psi eh? I'm also running SS1PU, 20psi, garret 18 psi actuator, 238rwkw.

I'll have to put my graph up, full boost around 4500 -5000, i'm really keen to bring it down a bit with the vnt housing.

Turbo comes on nice though.

Post it up so I can compare all 3 results :)

I get full boost by easily 4000 rpm if not earlier

Might take a video and get you an exact rpm

I think there is a fair bit of difference in the mid range. Seems to be about 20kw until my boost drops off.

I'm not sure the G2 is that much more responsive Stao.. On the day I picked up my car it felt a lot laggier than it does now. The motor has really loosened up since the tune day...

Attached is my graph which I have posted before. You will see that the G2 is at full boost between the 3750 and 4000 markers, meaning at best it would be 200rpm more responsive than my SS1PU. Remember also the conditions under which my car was tuned, and that it is only running pump 98.

mySS1PUnonVCTponcams.jpg

Remember mine is peaking at 25psi so it usually takes alil longer the higher the boost if you want to compare to yours at 20psi it gets there by 3600rpm

Only bad thing about it is it noses off abit after 6000rpm but might be sorted now due to the 4psi drop before now I got a 20psi actuator which seemed to fix it

Post it up so I can compare all 3 results :)

I get full boost by easily 4000 rpm if not earlier

Might take a video and get you an exact rpm

I think there is a fair bit of difference in the mid range. Seems to be about 20kw until my boost drops off.

Yeah will do as soon as i get home, offshore atm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah i found that alot of parts can be wrong or "very" hard to get the real right one. I already bought some brakes years ago on me "old" GT calipers and they were wrong too 😄  I told them too. Even send them pictures...but they said "EBC catalogue has them on my car... So i dont know what their answer will be. I call monday them and let them know that they are really not on my car. If they were they would be already on a car...
    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
×
×
  • Create New...