Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you hold down the mode button on mode 1 2 3 & 4 is the gain 20 all the way through them? you can set it differently for each mode by holding down the mode button for three seconds then adjusting with the select button.

Yes, Gain is 20 all the way through channels 1 to 4.

If you are using a Mac solenoid for boost control. I'm not if this EBC allow different gain settings at different RPMS which some ECU support. You can can use perhaps 50% gain down low and 100% gain after 5000. But either way the SS2 should have a slight creeping behavior working with a EBC, I think the drop could be related to insufficient supply of air or discharge of hot air inside the exhaust. See if boost level changes after 5000RPMs without air box lid and mesh filter first, then try a hollow cat ( I can lend u one if you need ).

This is a newer high flow profile available for Rb20det owners. It is very specifically aimed at response. The profile configuration works out very close to a 2871 in 52T. Maximum power wise would be expected around the 230rwkws mark depending on supporting mods and amount of boost given.

comp.jpg

turbine.jpg

Yes, Gain is 20 all the way through channels 1 to 4.

Just to correct some mis-information i gave...the gain is the same all the way through because you can't set it individually for each mode. each setup is different but i've found a gain of 30 and setting of 60 to work well to 1.18bar or if i want a different response i set gain to 7 and setting to 71 which gives me 1.18-1.2 bar.

Just to correct some mis-information i gave...the gain is the same all the way through because you can't set it individually for each mode. each setup is different but i've found a gain of 30 and setting of 60 to work well to 1.18bar or if i want a different response i set gain to 7 and setting to 71 which gives me 1.18-1.2 bar.

Thanks man. Yes I thought it might be the case that there's only one global gain setting. So mine is currently at setting 55 and gain 20 and peaks at around 1.35 bar.

I feel that the tuner has a good job given the constraints of the EBC. The next thing I'll investigate is the possible restriction in the exhaust (cat) or intake (airbox, IC).

Best to upgrade induction and exhaust first then play with the EBC as the end result will vary.

I'm posting up an promotion on our new ATR43SS-2 internally gated bolton turbochargers so more people can enjoy our latest development. The Retail price on this item is currently $1450, you can have own them now for $999 including braided oil feeding line. The Special offer is for 20 units only. That is currently the best performing RB25det bolton turbocharger.

comp.JPG

Product details and Dyno results are:

http://www.hypergearturbos.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=72&product_id=81

  • Like 3

This is the larger version of the 2nd generation SS2. It is 1.5mm bigger on compressor side and 3mms larger on turbine side. More power. :woot:

On the less complicated to build turbochargers. Since we have found good uses of a CNC machine that we can rent, we will be making TD06L2 based turbochargers are a very cheap price. that will be the SLSS2 and Sl20.5G turbochargers. Will update new pricing and details shortly.

This is the larger version of the 2nd generation SS2. It is 1.5mm bigger on compressor side and 3mms larger on turbine side. More power. :woot:

On the less complicated to build turbochargers. Since we have found good uses of a CNC machine that we can rent, we will be making TD06L2 based turbochargers are a very cheap price. that will be the SLSS2 and Sl20.5G turbochargers. Will update new pricing and details shortly.

I thought you had your own CNC machine? I thought that was how you make the billet compressors?

For the quantity that I'm currently doing its not worth to own. Also its only worth while using CNC making a number of identical housings at once, which in my case its different combinations for different customers. So most of the housings are still hand made on lathe on milling machine.

The SS wheels are originally just a machined version of the cast wheel, trailed and modified through time by my self. The CNC programming was done by an engineer that I hire, I also hire and work with many other engineers for different purposes on the development and manufacturing of a turbocharger.

Other thing worth mention is the CNC machine that does the profiling and machining of the comp and turbine housings are not the 5 axis machine that does the billet wheels. Those are CNC lathe and mills. One does all the machining of the horizontal profile and groves, and the other one does all the drilling and tapping of the holes. In which the Greedy comp and turbine housings that are made to run on C clip and V clamps are cheaper and quicker to produce as all aspects of machinery was done on one horizontal CNC lathe.

Can't machine a cast wheel, material is too soft. it starts as a copy of the cast wheel, which is a Billet comp wheel that is identical to a normal cast wheel, I then took it for a dyno run for a base output.

From there I modify the wheel blade shapes, tips, height, hub sizes and etc then evaluate each and single modification done to see what sort of differences it has made compare to base output on a dyno. Drawing of the better performing wheel where sent to produce in a batch. Like I've mentioned, my Skyline have done 1807 dyno runs since the start of this project, and probably made this thread containing more dyno readings then the dynosheet section plus a lot more that wasn't posted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...