Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Picked up this bad boy today after reading all 530 pages of this thread

10523565_856078507785625_194948415913983

Going onto an RB25det NEO in my R31 Ti

- Sard 650cc injectors (pretty rubbish)

- 2.5" cooler piping from turbo to t/b, 510x250x65 intercooler tube and fin (may be a restriction)

- 3" dump pipe, highflow 4" bodied metal cat, 3" exhaust with 2 straight through mufflers

- Aeromotive 340 stealth pump

- Nistune ER34 board

- Hypergear ATR43SS2 with op6 rear end to suit

- IWG welded up

- Turbosmart 40mm comp gate welded onto housing

- Screamer slash cut at passanger foot well

- 3" metal intake

- Z32 AFM

- Stock R31 airbox with highflow 'drift' filter and rear of lid chopped out (loses ALOT of power with unmodified lid, tbh most likely going to fabricate a custom airbox with panel filter.)

Hoping for 300 on P98 but will be more than satisfied with 280ish.

This should be easily possible, I'm back on the dyno today after changing the intercooler to see if i can hit 300kw mark on a rolling road, currently 284kw. Will update this evening.

Hey ben, keen to see how the nistune flex fuel for the neo goes been trying to find out about it. Let us know how you go mate. Other wise great setup (i wouldnt mind doing an op6 rear on my ss2 as well

This should be easily possible, I'm back on the dyno today after changing the intercooler to see if i can hit 300kw mark on a rolling road, currently 284kw. Will update this evening.

When back on the dyno, try a run with external gate screamer un-pluged from the dump pipe or let it externally gated. It will pickup more power on less boost that way.

Will you fit, balance and machine a comp housing to fit a gtx billet 71mm in a hks gt2535 tao? Or fit, balance machine a comp housing and fit a billet wheel of your own you u think would work with gt28 rear? The standard 2535 cast gt wheel is 69mm 56 trim and thecomp housing is .50 non surge slotted housing.

can be done. I can supply a SS-2 comp wheel , that is in 74mm. fitted, balanced with comp housing machined for $450. Alternatively:

Balancing $100, Comp housing machining is $150.

What sort of power should that be capable of with the gt28 rear wheel ans ss-2 billet on e85 wih the .64 hks rear. Id like to whack a exrternal gate off the housing to get rid of excess heat or wouls it be wirth porting the internal gate out as far as it can go? Thanks staoyour customer service is2nd to none.

on rb25 all supporting mods and 256 vtc cams. Yet to decide on a ecu yet. Want flex fuel and launch control. Lol

Edited by Joshbigt62r

GT28 rear is no good for RB25det engine, I don't recommend of fitting a much efficient compressor as it chocks the engine even worse. Since it is still working, sale it and get our standard 21U high flowed unit (we can supply donor turbo if you don't have one). it will make more power with same or better response.

10295196_10152932108354924_1802155133729

this makes me think you spent waaaay too much on a 31. Either way it's going to be a monster

more than you can imagine for a 31. lol.

had the car for 5 years though, and was my first car so doesn't really bother me.

*i do everything myself so dont think about fab or labour costs*

Edited by AUSBen31T

didn't try the wastegate vent to atmosphere...but here are the results anyway...which to be honest i'm pretty stoked with.

290rwkw @ 1.3bar on P98.

this is on a rolling road dyno. When i can i'd like to see what it does on a hub dyno.

only problem of the day was the Greedy type RS Bov started to leak quite badly.

post-95424-0-45186200-1423977765_thumb.jpg

Pulling the highflow off right now after i saw that lol , i love how consistant yours sits at 20psi with the same gate as me, hopefully i don't have issues with the op6 rear housing for control.

I have a pair of -7s, one of them has slight damage to the comp wheel, the edges of the fins are rounded off, do you have a billet comp wheel that can replace these of the same size, I also want to have the factory .48 rear housings I have fitted to them

I am lookng to track only my 32 next year and want to replace the factory turbos while only losing as little response as possible while being able to run 19-22psi on the track without them blowing up

Alternatively I have complete stockers if you have CHRAs that can be fitted to the factory housings

GT28 rear is no good for RB25det engine, I don't recommend of fitting a much efficient compressor as it chocks the engine even worse. Since it is still working, sale it and get our standard 21U high flowed unit (we can supply donor turbo if you don't have one). it will make more power with same or better response.

I can vouch for the 21U highflow. Guilt toy was impressed with it too. 273 rwkw on 17psi with P98 and full boost at 3300rpm in 4th

I have a pair of -7s, one of them has slight damage to the comp wheel, the edges of the fins are rounded off, do you have a billet comp wheel that can replace these of the same size, I also want to have the factory .48 rear housings I have fitted to them

I am lookng to track only my 32 next year and want to replace the factory turbos while only losing as little response as possible while being able to run 19-22psi on the track without them blowing up

Alternatively I have complete stockers if you have CHRAs that can be fitted to the factory housings

We can high flow them to -5 or -9 depending on the HP chasing for.

With the damaged -7s I need to have a look at the turbo, the smallest billet wheel that I currently make is in 60mm that made 250rwkws on P98 on my SR20det.

Hey tao, how much to health check and possibly rebuild a mid 2013 SS2?

Blows a bit of white smoke on decel so not sure if it's turbo or valve stem seals. Turbo seals are easier to replace so will try that first :)

Free of charge.

Before taking it off. have a feel of its shaft play. There should be about 1mm side to side and nothing in and out. If that is the case, check your engine breathers. if you do have a catch can, remove it and let breathers breath into atmosphere and see if the problem goes away.

What sort of power should that be capable of with the gt28 rear wheel ans ss-2 billet on e85 wih the .64 hks rear. Id like to whack a exrternal gate off the housing to get rid of excess heat or wouls it be wirth porting the internal gate out as far as it can go? Thanks staoyour customer service is2nd to none.

on rb25 all supporting mods and 256 vtc cams. Yet to decide on a ecu yet. Want flex fuel and launch control. Lol

Appears that you looking for results for this type of application. and I actually found one from few years back. This is during the evaluation and development of ATR43SS1PU. Dyno result shown 2535's 53mm turbine in .64 rear working with a older version of SS'2 billet compressor wheel, heat soaks with timing deducted avoiding detonation:

power.jpg

for your power level externally gated, you can use our ATR43SS-2 that boltup to most of your factory bits, or the SAT version of ATR45 (result appeared on Rb26) can be made as a bolton for RB25det or a SL2.05 in 10cm turbine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...