Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


Recommended Posts

few bits to check on:

3inches or bigger Metal induction pipe with Pod filter.

Check pressure drop across intercooler

3inches or larger turbo back exhaust, all flanges has to be in 3inches, Cat has to be in 100 cell, no cat gives the best result.

Tension up the actuator rod.

Further update. This is the ATR45 SAT version for RB26, I've trailed the ball bearing version, and it have made a very slight increase in response. I'm hitting the MAP limit for the Haltech ecu, will be installing an 3 bars maps sensor shortly.

Result against Standard Bush bearing model:

power.jpg

boost.jpg

Also running against my factory twins:

powervsstock2.JPG

powervsstock.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

post-101240-14243421761029_thumb.jpg

He sure did drop the exhaust.

The catco 3" metal high flow cat was brand new and installed by dvs. Hence why he dropped the muffler only. Jjr dump front pipe also 3" bell mouth brand new installed by him.

Unigroup reckons even new cats can cause restrictions.

We will see tomorrow

I'll keep you all updated

Edited by Therealsandybang
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I seem to remember 2 threads where there was a low power output, one was the GTX3067 thread and other Hanaldo's thread, correct me if im wrong but I think both had return flow intercoolers and JJR dump pipes..

Edited by AngryRB
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I seem to remember 2 threads where there was a low power output, one was the GTX3067 thread and other Hanaldo's thread, correct me if im wrong but I think both had return flow intercoolers and JJR dump pipes..

GTX3067 results were with return flow cooler, but dump is custom 3". That was thought to be an issue, but changed with zero difference.

I'm interested to see results of this investigation here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also how good does the adaptronic go compared to the likes of Vi-Pec/Link/Haltech ect in plug/play versions ofc. What can you do the Adaptronic for $$$'s wise with the sensors ill need and everything to just plug it in and set it up to go haha

I personally have not used Vi-Pec but I can comment on the Haltech & Adaptronic.

Haltech is more refined, has enough drivers to run full sequential injection & ignition where as the adaptronic is semi-sequential due to the lack of output, but Adaptronic has native serial input for most widebands and also direct flex sensor connection where as Haltech you will need to use an analog 0-5v input and if you want more inputs you'll need a pricy IO expansion box where as the adaptronic just pull off the cover and hook up additional sensors. Also adaptronic has a built-in 4 bar (43.5 max factoring in 1 bar atmospheric pressure) map sensor where as a Haltech has a 3bar (29psi max factoring in 1 bar atmospheric pressure).

If it boils down to features and price, Adatropnic hands down. If it boils down to software refinement and out of the box driveability from day one I would go Haltech.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You dont need a Dyno to check for an intercooler restriction, its cheaper to but another boost gauge or just move the boost gauge pickup to ore intercooler and see what pressure reads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gentlemen,

Did decat test. Ran 235kw at 13psi with no det on Unigroup dyno which apparently reads a bit lower (that's another argument).

Still losing boost from 17-->13psi.

Tao recommended pre loading actuator. Checked bov for leaks and did a run with it blocked off. Bov is fine.

They don't seem to think it's cooler yet.

Still some sort of restriction which is opening gate and preventing boost from being held.

Edited by Therealsandybang
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hoping mine doesn't get same issues with the .63 rear, however should be easier to hold 20psi externally gated yeah?

My cooler is 510x250x70 , tube and fin, which is worrying me a bit, however can't go any wider due to auto spoiler motors for the flip down lip on the 31. Could go to a 510x300x100 probably max.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
    • Yes that sounds right. Cars currently in the shop for the engine work. Will need to remeasure .. but yes I think I must be targeting 45cm from fender. 
×
×
  • Create New...