Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i'm guessing tin can or pipe the size of the intake pipe (to the turbo) with an air hose fitting and a bottle of soapy water (old school bicycle inner tube leak style) and go over all the joints

Have to ask Trent, he did some process to tune it. Dont know much more about it.

I just know the car feels a lot laggier and less power. Dont even really need a dyno but the dyno backs it up how it feels.

we were comparing different cars so the folder thats opened last will be shown.

Ahh k..yeah it was unlikely it would cause a 20kw difference anyway, just found it odd..

Could it be your WG isnt closing properly??

Stao, just a quick one I think would be valuable to your thread;

Are you able to back cut exhaust wheels?

I want to do this to make 2835 from 3071 or 3240 from 3540, thanks.

Stao, just a quick one I think would be valuable to your thread;

Are you able to back cut exhaust wheels?

I want to do this to make 2835 from 3071 or 3240 from 3540, thanks.

To trim or back cut wheels. yes we can do that. you need to give me the specs thou. or a set of 2835 housings.

i'm guessing tin can or pipe the size of the intake pipe (to the turbo) with an air hose fitting and a bottle of soapy water (old school bicycle inner tube leak style) and go over all the joints

Yup exactly, I bought some pvc caps from bunnings and use a silicone joiner and clamp to block off both the intake and the throttlebody. Then put an air hose fitting into the intake cap and insert air pressure. Any leaks I have had on previous cars have been quite loud and very easy to locate.

Just need to find my damn pump!

Interesting plot of the same turbo on Tao's car (yellow and green) and my car (red):

This is with the car running as it was previously making 279rwkw. Both yellow and red are running just off the actuator (no boost controller) but on Tao's car he is able to hold the boost flatter and get more boost up top.

post-29432-1288229088_thumb.jpg

Did you reinstall the bov afterwards? I cant see how a bov restrictor plate could reduce power? Affect driveability sure.

No i threw that plate in the bin it had cost me alot of money trying to find the problem! well it was messing around with the cars afrs, and at 10% throttle it would open the bov and hiss, could only hear it on the dyno and then the car would dump in petrol making it run really rich. I was there when my tuner did it, i couldnt believe it too but taking it out worked, u could hear the car was running so much better!

Interesting plot of the same turbo on Tao's car (yellow and green) and my car (red):

This is with the car running as it was previously making 279rwkw. Both yellow and red are running just off the actuator (no boost controller) but on Tao's car he is able to hold the boost flatter and get more boost up top.

could it be possibly different parts such as exhaust, dump pipe, cat, air intake, intercooler brand, piping and design? better sealing of cylinders as tao has just rebuilt to stock spec with cp forgies. Maybe try another actuator? maybe a leak in a small pipe such as the ones going to the stock boost controller?

hopefully its just a leak somewhere which is nice an easy to fix :)

Edited by DJSimmo
could it be possibly different parts such as exhaust, dump pipe, cat, air intake, intercooler brand, piping and design? better sealing of cylinders as tao has just rebuilt to stock spec with cp forgies. Maybe try another actuator? maybe a leak in a small pipe such as the ones going to the stock boost controller?

hopefully its just a leak somewhere which is nice an easy to fix :)

Just to clear it up that red plot was when the car was running right. I am happy with my dyno being 5rwkw of so less for most of the curve and a bit less at the top cause the boost isnt holding. When you look at the peak power figure mine is quite a bit behind Tao's but if you look at the curve its only right up top that there is much of a difference.

I just want to get back to the red curve. Yup I am hoping its a leak somewhere too! I am not running any boost controller, not even the standard one. I am using the same actuator as what Tao used in those green and yellow plots. I will look into getting boost to hold flat later on, at the moment I am just focussed on finding this issue.

Ok, so got home last night and pulled out my boost leak tester. Found a big leak on the joiner on the outlet of the intercooler! It was quite late so I didnt get a chance to try and fix it. But I am very happy to have found it! Cant wait to get home to fix it.

post-29432-1288307121_thumb.jpg

post-29432-1288307125_thumb.jpg

post-29432-1288307129_thumb.jpg

Ok, so got home last night and pulled out my boost leak tester. Found a big leak on the joiner on the outlet of the intercooler! It was quite late so I didnt get a chance to try and fix it. But I am very happy to have found it! Cant wait to get home to fix it.

nice... and you didnt need to pull the front bar :P

Don't assume that's the only leak though, still go over everything else to be sure. Otherwise, congrats! Hope it goes better now :P

Once I have replaced that hose and clamps I will retest for leaks until I am happy.

nice... and you didnt need to pull the front bar :P

hahaha yup I was dreading taking off the front bar and driving across melbourne. I get enough cop attention already, without a front bar would be suicide!

Ok, so got home last night and pulled out my boost leak tester. Found a big leak on the joiner on the outlet of the intercooler! It was quite late so I didnt get a chance to try and fix it. But I am very happy to have found it! Cant wait to get home to fix it.

LOL at that leak tester! Good work

Hahaha I know it looks ghetto, but it works really well. Because there is no other noise its really easy to hear the leak.

Exactly, may be a bit ghetto but cheap and gets the job done! Thumbs up :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
    • I do this, I also don't get the joke  
    • Return flow cooler will be killing you I reckon. You can certainly push more through a low mount setup but they're good numbers for a stock looking engine bay.  Mine made 345rwkw (hub) at 22psi on 98 with a "highflow" on a stock manifold but it's a long way from a normal high flow or standard engine. I used one of those Turbosmart IWG-75's and it was great with the Motec running closed loop boost with pressure being applied to both sides of the diaphragm. 
    • Hey man do you have pic of adaptor plate by any chance I need to match up the bolt holes as my gearbox adaptor plate ones are way off the only bolts of starter motor are matching thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...