Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 219
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Aiming to get back to the dyno the weekend (or Friday) after the easter long weekend.

Guilt, will you be free sometime around then?

I want to wind the boost up from 17PSi to 19PSi also. Hopefully then with a bit more boost and the hi flow cat, it will crank out ~300AWKW.

It will be interesting to get a power run done on a Sydney Dyno down the track to compare results.

How did the dyno run go Bakes?

Due to Paul having to go to Qld for work I took the car to Sydney to get it final tuned. Car got tuned today by Scott at Insight Motorsports. Ive spoken to him over the phone, it made 396 Horsepower (295Kw) at all 4 wheels at 1.3 Bar.

This is with my 19 inch Volks on also so with stock wheels it will pull 310-315 All wheel Kw. Im looking forward to driving the mofo.

Ill post up graphs when I get them.

Why would it make more power at the wheels with the 18's ?

of all people i thought you would know this dude... unless you use a hub dyno.. the size of the wheels and friction properties of the tyres will affect the power output on any particular dyno.. high reading or low reading.. his volks have a rolling diameter of 675mm while the original gtr wheels are 654mm, so the original wheels will give a higher speed reading and slightly higher power reading. the big wheels will give a higher torque reading and less speed.. it doesnt matter anyway as the dyno was just used to tune it.. scott @ insight said it has got more to offer and its a very safe tune for day to day driving.. and its been tuned for maximum low down response... not top top end power.

regardless of power readings and dynos and crap thats gone on and what anyone thinks.. this car now hauls. it has fantastic driveablity, excellent fuel economy, and power to boot.. for the amount of punting bakes does.. the money has been spent, the parts are fitted, and the result at the end are what matters, it should keep him happy for a while..

simon, if your not content with anything about bakes gtr, feel free to line your r31 up anytime you like (or your mates mp3 player) .. until then.. let him enjoy his car stop worrying about what you could have done for him..

;)

Car made 400HP at 4 wheels but was pulled back a bit on final tune to keep everything nice and safe (stock motor) Not running crazy boost either. (only ~1.2/1.3 Bar)

The tune is fantastic, runs so smooth. Tuned for cold start also, Im very happy with it. Ive found no need to give it more than 70% throttle yet either, she goes pretty good ;)

Here is my performance mod list:

* HKS Front pipe, HKS rear pipe with Hi Power Muffler, Hi flow cat

* Garrett 2860R-5 Turbos

* HKS SPL full piping kit with HKS super power flow pods

* Nismo Fuel Pump

* Turbosmart fuel regulator with pressure gauge

* Hypertune Billet fuel rail

* Siemens 610cc Injectors

* OS Giken Cam gears

* Nismo twin plate clutch

* Vipec V44 ECU

* Tech Edge Wideband AFR controller

* HKS EVC6

Tune results at different boost settings on Insight Motorsports Dyno, ALL WHEEL HORSEPOWER: (19 inch volks on)

img1476aaa.jpg

Now for those interested I had some fun with excel to compare my results from where my car was stock except for exhaust to where the car is now:

Notes: Above dyno graph is in All Wheel Hosepower, the graph below I made is in All Wheel Kw

: Blue line was done on IS Motor Racing Dyno with stock wheels/tyres

: Yellow and red lines are on Insight Motorsports Dyno with 19 inch wheels

stockturbosvs5turbosdyn.jpg

My biggest loss in response is ~ the 100Kw mark with a loss of ~550/600 RPM. The -5s catch up ~ the 4400 RPM mark

Would be interesting to do another power run now on the IS Motor Racing Dyno.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...