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I was looking into the uniclutch, as something that doesn't rattle, dampens and holds horsepower is the dream. They didn't seem super confident on the power holding though. Could just be covering themselves, which is understandable. "The 10in sport Uniclutch can handle a peak of 1100Nm at the flywheel, not sure how that translates to HP. As for the power output of your engine, I would suggest holding for the UniClutch Track, I feel the 1000HP will have a higher torque rating then what the Sport will be able to handle, We have fitted prototype track clutches to a number of street/track test vehicles now and have found pedal effort to be reasonable. It is very similar to OE pedal feel. and would fall within the torque capacity of the Uniclutch Track." The track clutch loses the dampening and rattles(?) I believe though.... don't quote me -
By GoHashiriya · Posted
I think this is applicable for most. My car was ~2,000,000 JPY in 2020 Total expenses are around ~5,000,000 JPY excluding fuel. Selling price could be anywhere between ~5,000,000 JPY to ~7,000,000 JPY depending on how desperate the American. Sure, I could have stored it in that time but there are still storage costs “carry costs” as we call it in industry - insurance, garage, electricity, maintenance, etc. and possibly made 100% (nominal return), but I don’t think that’s why most of us are here. Apologies for the deviation. -
I don’t think they’re rated to hold that power -
So ive recently come across an issue on my R34, where no matter what i try do, the fuse pops for “tail lights” whenever i turn the “parker” light on at the indicator/light stalk. I cannot find anything wrong with wiring, and im still kind of unsure how to test continuity to find the issue as i don’t quite know how that circuit is wired. If i stick the multimeter into the earth of the parker on the driver side, i get continuity, on the passenger side i don’t. Putting it into the positive of both sides brings up nothing. I pulled apart the steering wheel surround and disconnected the plugs on the stalk and inspected them, seems all fine there. I cannot for the life of me work it out and its doing my head in, as im trying to get stuff sorted before the car goes off to get the engine back in while im away overseas from next week. I also have the very strange issue that i have been trying to work out for weeks now, when i turn the key to “ON” my dash night time lights, as well as ABS, Airbag and HICAS lights will come on, and stay on when i take the key out. Turbo timer is turned off, and also strangely, the tail lights stay on with it lit. Ive attached a video. Cannot work it out Any help would be greatly appreciated IMG_2901.mov -
By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
74mm would be good, however you will find you will need to gently ramp in the pedal vs. throttle so it feels smooth and linear (not like those silly carb V8s where you touch the throttle 1mm and the car wants to fry tyres). This is how mine is dialled in with a 74mm DBW TB, I wanted 68mm but Plazmaman couldn't weld a 68mm flange onto the plenum. You said you want 373kW to 447kW, you don't need a 62mm turbo to do that, that turbo can spin over 500kW+
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