Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recommend whoever is admin here try and mass delete these PMs that have been sent to everyone if possible, I haven't bothered to check out the website that is disguised as 'new forums rules' but I imagine it is some kind of malware or virus.

The user that sent them was jurdreda

Edited by Rolls
  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Same issue as the other day (see below thread)

Users should be aware of such spam and not click links.

IPB have released an announcement about it to all Forum Owners, there no doubt will be some kind of fix coming - however i am unaware of deleting PM's from users, i dont think that would be a feature you'd want Admins to have :P

however i am unaware of deleting PM's from users, i dont think that would be a feature you'd want Admins to have :)

True, and I'd like to think most users are smart enough to avoid such tricks, however I'm sure some will have fallen victim.

I got this email about a PM but my user name isn't "PartsGuy". Logged into my account and I noticed that my email address has been changed. :)

I've changed it to my email address, but should I be concerned ?

I don't understand.

What does "partsguy" mean?

And did you change your user ID? Click on the link? Give out your pass?

If none of the above, there is no way for someone else to change email address, you must have done it at some stage or someone else did if you left your user logged into a share PC etc

Yes mate, if you didn't click the link you'll be right.

A little bit more info from an IPB announcement:

It has come to our attention that a new wave of SPAM is originating via the Personal Messenger within IP.Board. It is believed that humans are registering to satisfy the reCaptcha requirements and then activating a "bot" to send hundreds of SPAM messages via the PM system.
So we're certainly not the only ones "lucky" enough to be targeted, hooray!

If the account registrations are indeed being completed by people then it's extremely difficult for any automated system to detect them as a spam account until they've already tried to deliver their payload (and to detect THAT the software has to include the functionality).

As always, your best bet is to keep your eyes open (a lot of spam accounts will have nonsensical names, they'll usually have a registration date within the last week, etc) and, most importantly, don't click any links you are uncertain about.

I hate spam as much as anyone, but unfortunately it's a fact of life these days - just delete it and move on :(

How long is a piece of string?

Could be to promotional/rubbish websites, could be virus/malware... impossible to tell

I clicked on the link that i received via a PM, and now, in the next few days I'm going to find out how to increase my penis size!!!

I'll post up a full DIY ASAP! :stupid::D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...