Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i hit sandown for the first time on ku's the other day. times wernt too bad. the tyres seem to be getter better, 3-4 track days in they are

much better than the first couple, i have turn in grip now, ya. still feel em moving around after a couple of laps tho. which the 595rs dont.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ty...50#entry5065250

Has anyone got any feedback on best camber to for use the KU36 on a R32 GTR

they won't need as much camber as stickier dedicated track tyres. and with their softer construction, they will be less sensitive to geometry changes as well. ie you won't get much benefit for running an extra degree. really, just good performance road car settings will be fine.

good price at this point in time

my rears lasted 6 months...i wonder why! :happy:

my fronts are still going but i am looking to replace shortly

only unsure comment i have about them is i have vibration in the fronts.

from what i can see it looks like every second inner block has worn a little lower than others and this is the vibration i am feeling.

not sure on the camber setup...but advised the mech for a street setup so dont believe it would be too aggressive

  • 2 weeks later...
I'm just after a road tyre replacement. I might do like 1 track day a year.

Are the Kumho KU36 suitable for this or are there cheaper tyres that will suit a daily driver?

The price point on the Kumho's seem reasonable.

I'm in the same boat mate. I'm pretty keen on trying the Ku36, but wondering if the Ku31 would be better suited to my application, and I've been quoted the same price for both. Anyone have any thoughts?

I paid $170 each for 235 45 17's.

Took the car for a squirt through the spur and really enjoyed the grip, handles like its on rails now compared to the old crappy tyres. Need to run 38 to 40 psi to feel right and stop the squirmy feeling. Very low noise levels and minimal tramming.

I found them good in the wet, although they were brand new so will only be better now they are scrubbed in.

Have to see how long they last now.

Option1Garage do them for a reasonable price delivered, but if you're in Sydney hit up Tempe tyres!

I've been running the XS KU36 for around 6 months now, they are an excellant tyre for their price. I do agree, they need to be warm before they're able to perform.

They dont have to be the KU36, KU31 will be ok if cheaper. They are only for pottering around on the street but if you can pm me the details for 2 x 265/40/17s (not sure if that size is available, maybe 255/40/17) and 2 x 245/40/17s or there abouts

Depending on price may end up going Federal simply because they have a 265 tyre (sorry OT)

OTR on Westal Rd in Clayton sell & fit them for pretty much the same price compared to getting them freighted from option1 garage in Queensland. They can also get heaps of other tyres and very reasonable prices so they are definitely worth a look if you are in Melbourne.

My experience is based on the 245/45/17's on my RB25 r32 with around 220rwkw.

I am about 5,000km into a set of KU36's that replaced some Bridgestone RE01-R's. The Bridgestone's definitely had better turn in due to stiffer sidewalls and didn't move around as much as the KU36's do, but as far as putting the power down in a straight line the KU36's are doing a better job (not sure if this is because RE01-R's were old and possibly hardened up after a few heat cycles). As far as a track tire, the grip of the KU36's fall off alot quicker when they get hot (and need to run 38 to 40psi to stop them squirming too much), probably only good for 2 to 3 laps tops, but for a daily driven car that has to soak up some bumps with the occasional spirited drive & track day in mind then I would highly recommend them.

They work fine in the wet once the shine is scrubbed off them and don't seem to wearing overly quickly. I would be comparing the KU36's to something like Adrenalin's, not semi's. Their construction is closer to a road tyre but the compound seems to be closer in softness to a semi.

Just my 2 cents.

I've been running KU-31's on my car for the last 3 years or so, and think they're great.

Reading the positive reviews you all seem to be giving the KU-36, as they're similar money to the -31, I'm considering changing to them at my next tyre change.

My concern is the tyre wear. Anyone have any experience on how the life of these, compare to the KU-31?

They dont have to be the KU36, KU31 will be ok if cheaper. They are only for pottering around on the street but if you can pm me the details for 2 x 265/40/17s (not sure if that size is available, maybe 255/40/17) and 2 x 245/40/17s or there abouts

Depending on price may end up going Federal simply because they have a 265 tyre (sorry OT)

Traction Tyres did a great price on them for me Roy... Shane will look after ya if you mention you're a Vic member :) By the time you buy them cheap for somewhere else like Option1 or OTR and get them fitted/balance, i think TT came out a shade cheaper... or maybe $10 more expensive. Much easier to deal all with them and support a supporter :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
    • Shimmed or shimless, still solid, no hydraulic pump up stuff.
    • They have said food will be limited. Mainly meat pies and sausage rolls from memory. But they have a coffee van!
×
×
  • Create New...