Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well 1 of my friends used a 480 KKR turbo which was poo, u have to run so much boost to make 240 at rears and its not the healtiest thing for the standard internal engine, :D now my other mate ran an ebay cheap kit for $900 including manifold, waste gate, turbo and it made 270 at 16PSI but its very laggy and is still running strong after more than a year of absolute thrashing, :) (1 in a 100000) i run a garrett gt3076r 0.82 IW on mine i made 260 at 15psi its not very laggy and mid to high rev range is very strong :D save some more money and get a trusted brand name garrett have some great range and are not overly priced

www.horsepowerinabox.com

www.gcg.com.au

well 1 of my friends used a 480 KKR turbo which was poo, u have to run so much boost to make 240 at rears and its not the healtiest thing for the standard internal engine, :D now my other mate ran an ebay cheap kit for $900 including manifold, waste gate, turbo and it made 270 at 16PSI but its very laggy and is still running strong after more than a year of absolute thrashing, :) (1 in a 100000) i run a garrett gt3076r 0.82 IW on mine i made 260 at 15psi its not very laggy and mid to high rev range is very strong :D save some more money and get a trusted brand name garrett have some great range and are not overly priced

www.horsepowerinabox.com

www.gcg.com.au

I have been doing some looking around at turbos and i have found that alot of people are running th gt3076r. Is that just a straight bolt on or does some modifing have to be done. and will that turbo be a better choice than high flowing my turbo.?

  • 7 months later...
430hp-Specifications

Compressor side

Inlet pipe 70mm, outlet pipe 50mm 48 trim compressor;

inducer 53mm, exducer 76.5mm

Exhaust side

0.58 A/R turbine housing, Turbine wheel outlet 48mm, outer diameter 64.5mm

OR

480hp-Specifications

Compressor side

Inlet pipe 70mm, outlet pipe 50mm 48 trim compressor; inducer 53mm, exducer 76.5mm

Exhaust side

0.69 A/R turbine housing, Turbine wheel outlet 56mm, outer diameter 73mm

OR

560hp-Specifications

Compressor side

Inlet pipe 76mm, outlet pipe 50mm, 55 trim compressor; inducer 61mm, exducer 82mm

Exhaust side

0.69 A/R turbine housing, Turbine wheel outlet 56mm, outer diameter 73mm

will be using a power fc, bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump but want to run on stock internals. can anybody recomend what turbo will be the best suited for good medium punch through to redline and why? would be a great help :P

Im running one of these the internal gated 430hp from ninja garage, running 16PSI, response is good and top end heaps better than standard, have not dynoed but very impressed bang for buck. My car is only a toy definately not a daily driver. ECU is Jap LAP ECU with SAFC II, standard injectors. Have set high throttle +5 on SAFC II.

there really need to be an EBAY sticky, post ur ebay turbo question here

way to many ebay turbo topics

and there needs to be an automatied reply to every post

EBAY = BAD with nismoids old photo of the guy jerking

You seem to be one that is trying to find a good deal and not have to fork out 3000 or so for a garett kit so I would recommend if you settle for 250kw go for a highflow from where other have stated gcg or hypergear or if you want 270kw then try hypergears atr43g3 it will make the power prob im guessing at around 17psi and are good on price , and also take into consideration that when people say bolt on they usualy mean it bolts onto the standard exhust manifold but you may or may not have to have a new dump pipe made , you will need new oil lines and maybe water, new intake pipe and posibly modify your intercoller pipe but the high flow are pretty much stright bolt on.

Im running one of these the internal gated 430hp from ninja garage, running 16PSI, response is good and top end heaps better than standard, have not dynoed but very impressed bang for buck. My car is only a toy definately not a daily driver. ECU is Jap LAP ECU with SAFC II, standard injectors. Have set high throttle +5 on SAFC II.

this sounds safe

If you want 270 go for a 25NEO (R34) Hiflow. The 33 Hiflow wont make that power, you need the larger housing of the NEO to get that power, but will still be responsive as hell.

The best 2 turbos to compare are the Hiflow and the 3076, the Hiflow is way more linear in delivery, whereas the 3076 has a touch more lag but has a nicer kick and has the ability to make a bit more than 270.

The Hiflow is a bolt-on but the 3076 requires alot more work to fit, so consider a fair bit worth of labour costs. Changing manifold studs for spacer...oil/water lines...youll need a custom intake pipe too.

the Hiflow is way more linear in delivery, whereas the 3076 has a touch more lag but has a nicer kick and has the ability to make a bit more than 270.

I've never thought of the GT3076R as any other than linear - do you guys given them as quite snappy?

Send in your stock turbo for Powered up high flow. We can get you 270rwkws+ with your stock 2IU turbine housing with our VARA technology, which allows us to alter your turbine housing to what ever we need it to be.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...