Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 277
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Marko we all know the reason you don't like rb30s is it had to much low down torque and you looped it and smacked a wall

We ALL know? You are a champion lol and I must say, thank you for sharing that - 10 points to the man with the microphone! Besides, I wouldn't go shooting off remarks like that unless you understood the root cause and in fact why the rear tyre peeled off the rim.

Your comment has no validation to capacity what so ever.

I had the opportunity to keep my rb30 and decided not to which clearly demonstrates that I prefer an rb26 and subsequently have my old car back...I've been there and done that, I've had my fair share of clapped out imports and now have my aust gtr :)

Tyres don't just peel off, I'm sure you know that, the force required to unbead the tyre from the rim is quite substantial and could only be caused by the rim/tyre impacting the gutter or pot hole from hell

I have seen tyres go flat and people drive on them until the side wall separated from the actuall tyre, but the bead was still attached to the rim.

As for capacity, on the street the rb30 would always be the best choice. cause I like drive up a hill with my a/c going and not have to change from 4th to second to get up there

Edited by r32-25t

Tyres don't just peel off, I'm sure you know that, the force required to unbead the tyre from the rim is quite substantial and could only be caused by the rim/tyre impacting the gutter or pot hole from hell

I have seen tyres go flat and people drive on them until the side wall separated from the actuall tyre, but the bead was still attached to the rim.

As for capacity, on the street the rb30 would always be the best choice. cause I like drive up a hill with my a/c going and not have to change from 4th to second to get up there

How can u draw a conclusion when u don't know the sequence of events? This is way off topic and again simon, I apologise.

Sorry if I have been abrupt but I shouldn't even have to apologise on this front...

Rb30 is an awesome engine, so is the rb26

How in the world did we go from tyres issues to aircon. WTF?? :pirate:

So back to my build thread rather than chat thread. I don't at all mind the banter thats been going on in this thread for the last 2 weeks or so, as long as its helpful.

I hope to twist my other tuners arm this week and get the GTR on the dyno to see what he thinks is going on....

  • 3 years later...

Just read the thread, I see this finished mid 2011, does it still stand true that the 26 is better on the track than the RB30, the Nitto 3.2 strokers rev to 10,000 and do not seem to drop off after 7000rpm and continue to go hard to the limiter??

Maybe I misunderstood ?

No its not true that 26s are better on the track. It is true that there have been a few more highly developed RB30 32 and 34s built in the last few years and they can indeed rev to 10k but at the end of the day , when all's said and done etc etc the fastest car on the track will be the best built best driven car and the capacity will just be a factor, not the deciding factor.

Yeah, after reading a lot of builds it seems the strokers are starting to be developed to rev higher as well as having the low/mid grunt.

Seems the Nitto 3.2Lt seems to be a well made unit and can handle a heap of HP while revving to 10,000+

I am building a Nitto 3.2 but as a DD and probably limited to 8000rpm ish depending how it all works in together.

You will be aware that RIPS put a 3.2 (pretty sure it was a Nitto) in a Stagea and made 1000kw...

Rips have put them in a few Rs, MGAWOT 1 & 11 and @ 1500HP, they seem to do some amazing things. Nitto in QLD goes hard @1000HP+ :) CRD has done some quick Rs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...