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how many litres are you classing as a tank? shits me when people just say "a tank" because a dodgy fuel sender can mean that it reads empty after using 35L.

put your economy into L/100kms. my 33 would get about 10L/100km on the highway and about 17L/100km round town because i drove a lot of short trips where it would still be on cold start enrichment, and when it was warm i would fang it a bit.

also you can get a direct fit replacement o2 sensor from repco, autobarn, etc. the new ngk catalogues have the part number listed for them. and if it doesn't just order the one for a n15 SSS pulsar as it uses the same one.

This is interesting, last time i filled up my car, the fuel gauge came back to E! lol. First it went to F, then came down to well past E. Then during driving, it crept back up to F. I could never figure out wat the hell is/was wrong. Dodgy sender unit you reckn?

My one seems to get a lil bit more economy with my new turbo-mainly offboost economy. Im putting it down to the lag.

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geez guys how you getting so much km/s per tank?

i usually get around 310km b4 filling up. atm i have 1mm above half a tank with 200km being driven so far. i have full 3"zorst, 10psi and atmo megasonic. and yes i am aware the atmo will make it eat more fuel, however it cant be that much?

as said per tank is fairly meaningless. you could be running it down to 1L left or you could be filling up with 20L left.

i get around 14-15L/100km driving only on weekends with mostly short, agressive drives

I've been getting around the 10L/100km over the last month driving to work and back. It's due to the fact that a lot of it is highway though.

Just wondering is the R33 and R34 02 sensor the same part number?

anyone know if the 300zx Twin turbo o2 sensor is the same? i herd the plug and that is the same...and my brotherlaw has 2 brand spankers sittin there !

i consistently get around 220kms with half a tank :P

i think they are different. not because of the plug but because of what they are made out of. but i'm not 100% sure on this. you could check on the ngk website as they have the 300zx listed. if it starts with OZA then if the plug fits it will work. if it starts with (i think) OTA then it won't as the sensor is made out of a different material

it should also be said that just driving at low rpm doesn't automatically mean good fuel economy. if you are still giving it the beans but are changing at 3000rpm you will still use more fuel than someone using much lower throttle percentage and reving to 4000rpm. if you want good economy just make sure you keep it out of positive boost as much as possible.

also make sure your thermostat is working properly because if it isn't and your car takes longer to come up to temp then that is wasted fuel. also if you start your car and let it idle until it comes up to temp (which i personally don't agree with) you will also be using more fuel than you need to and also your car takes longer to come up to temp idling and then only your engine is up to temp and your gearbox and diff oil isn't. also if you spend a lot of time sitting in traffic, or just have to go through a lot of stop or giveway signs that also increases your fuel economy. sometimes slightly altering your route can get you better fuel economy even though you may go slightly further, but the fact that you don't have to alter your speed will save you fuel (and sometimes time as well).

it should also be said that just driving at low rpm doesn't automatically mean good fuel economy. if you are still giving it the beans but are changing at 3000rpm you will still use more fuel than someone using much lower throttle percentage and reving to 4000rpm. if you want good economy just make sure you keep it out of positive boost as much as possible.

also make sure your thermostat is working properly because if it isn't and your car takes longer to come up to temp then that is wasted fuel. also if you start your car and let it idle until it comes up to temp (which i personally don't agree with) you will also be using more fuel than you need to and also your car takes longer to come up to temp idling and then only your engine is up to temp and your gearbox and diff oil isn't. also if you spend a lot of time sitting in traffic, or just have to go through a lot of stop or giveway signs that also increases your fuel economy. sometimes slightly altering your route can get you better fuel economy even though you may go slightly further, but the fact that you don't have to alter your speed will save you fuel (and sometimes time as well).

i posted a PFC map with cruise and power part highlighted here;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...is-t276729.html

it should also be said that just driving at low rpm doesn't automatically mean good fuel economy. if you are still giving it the beans but are changing at 3000rpm you will still use more fuel than someone using much lower throttle percentage and reving to 4000rpm. if you want good economy just make sure you keep it out of positive boost as much as possible.

also make sure your thermostat is working properly because if it isn't and your car takes longer to come up to temp then that is wasted fuel. also if you start your car and let it idle until it comes up to temp (which i personally don't agree with) you will also be using more fuel than you need to and also your car takes longer to come up to temp idling and then only your engine is up to temp and your gearbox and diff oil isn't. also if you spend a lot of time sitting in traffic, or just have to go through a lot of stop or giveway signs that also increases your fuel economy. sometimes slightly altering your route can get you better fuel economy even though you may go slightly further, but the fact that you don't have to alter your speed will save you fuel (and sometimes time as well).

If I may add to this^

There's also a misconception that driving down a hill in neutral saves fuel because of the low idle RPM, when in most cases this will use more petrol than leaving the engine attached to a gear (idle control valve is not your friend!). Just because the engine is revving high does not mean it is getting alot of fuel - it is the throttle plate that controls this, not engine RPM. A vacuum gauge is good biometric feedback for monitoring your fuel economy...or you could could put a piece of wood behind your accelerator pedal :thumbsup:

I warm my engine up before driving, but not to get it up to temp so I can thrash it. I just like the oil to have circulated for a little bit before my engine sees 1500RPM+, after which I use normal driving to get the rest of the drivetrain up to par.

350Kms out of a tank (assuming by "tank" you mean 50l) is about 14l/100Kms which is not too shabby .. I'd be happy with that. I barely get 300Kms out of 50l and that's with a band new genuine o2 sensor, afm and remapped ecu that runs a lot leaner than stock.. I do no highway driving though (well maybe 5-10% every other week) as it's all mostly around town.

Edited by Delta Force
anyone know if the 300zx Twin turbo o2 sensor is the same? i herd the plug and that is the same...and my brotherlaw has 2 brand spankers sittin there !

i consistently get around 220kms with half a tank :P

Sorry don't mean to rain on anyone's parade but that's not an accurate measurement unless you're certain your fuel guage is SPOT ON but seeing as how it's an R33 I highly doubt it.

My R34's fuel guage shows up to 180Kms for the top half of tank and then only about 120 for the bottom half (bottom 2 notches) ie. it's not balanced correctly and doesn't actually mean jack shit. Best way to measure it as the bowser.. ie. 1) fill up until full 2) reset odo to 0 3) drive until empty or however long you want 4) refill and note down how many litres you refilled 5) look at odo .. divide that number by 100 and then divide number of litres you refilled by that result of division above and you get l/100kms

doubt it ..different turbos, different dump pipes and possibly connectors .. If you look here http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ad...keywords=oxygen you'll notice even R33 S1 and S2 use different Nissan (OEM) sensors. R34 is different also but R33/R34 GTR ones appear to be the same.

Edited by Delta Force

I am yet to confirm it with a calculator (Have not had enough cash to put 2 full tanks in a row since I bought it) But R32 GTR with turbos, 3.5 exhaust, and 70% of the time on 7psi 30% on 14 (maybe a little bit of 20 for fun) around town (Bathurst) about 15-17l/100, which includes the car running for at least 5 mins before leaving home or work, and going across the blue mountains at a good pace plus a bit of driving in Syd is 10/100 if not a bit better!!!!

Was expecting this thing to be heaps worse than my Stagea.. But complete opposite, Stagea was about 20/100 around town and 13-15 on the highway.. Manual, lighter weight and better o2's etc is probably the diff

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