Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hay all

my turbo on my s2 stagea is on its way out was thinking of getting gcg to high flow it

is anyone using one on and rb25det neo if so what mods are needed to run it i have fuel pump fmic coilpacks full turbo back exhaust

but stock ecu any help would be great i dont want to make heaps of power a little more then what i have now would be great

thaks guys

myles

Edited by GreenGhost
hay all

my turbo on my s2 stagea is on its way out was thinking of getting gcg to high flow it

is anyone using one on and rb25det neo if so what mods are needed to run it i have fuel pump fmic coilpacks full turbo back exhaust

but stock ecu any help would be great i dont want to make heaps of power a little more then what i have now would be great

thaks guys

myles

im running basically same as you with a GCG highflow, but SAFC neo on the stock ECU, makes great power, only run around 13psi. Not sure of the specs of the GCG as I bought it 2nd hand.

I have a GCG turbo with jaycar electronic boost controller. You can make anywhere from 200AWKW upwards (they are rated at 450hp). The GCG is not cheap (although you can get a discount as an SAU member) but they are ball bearing, slot straight back in with no lines to make up and boost hard from low revs.

If money is tight you can run with stock ecu (keep boost down to 10-12 psi).

I was using SAFC, SITC, speed limit cut defender but since you have a S2 you can replace all that for less money with a Nistune rechip and tune. Then you can raise boost to 16psi and really fly (you should get an electronic boost controller at this point).

chat to Bill at Adelaide Turbo Services

he'll line you up with a Garrett GT3076 ball bearing internal wastegate chra, with ported stock front housing, and larger .73 AVO skyline rear housing, bolt on, with lines

best of the best in terms of highflows, and thats a FACT

240kw at 1.05bar (15ish-psi)

chat to Bill at Adelaide Turbo Services

he'll line you up with a Garrett GT3076 ball bearing internal wastegate chra, with ported stock front housing, and larger .73 AVO skyline rear housing, bolt on, with lines

best of the best in terms of highflows, and thats a FACT

240kw at 1.05bar (15ish-psi)

cost ?

cost ?

the Garrett BB-IW Chra costs around $1300, the .73 AVO skyline 6-bolt exhaust housing is $700, ported front cover, lines, balancing etc

= $2500 for the kit, bolt on, rated for 280kw

I paid $2200 and gave ATS some spare parts for credit.

chat to Bill at Adelaide Turbo Services

he'll line you up with a Garrett GT3076 ball bearing internal wastegate chra, with ported stock front housing, and larger .73 AVO skyline rear housing, bolt on, with lines

best of the best in terms of highflows, and thats a FACT

240kw at 1.05bar (15ish-psi)

similar to a GCG.... i recon GCG prob use a 3071 CHRA.... they seem too laggy to be a 2871

i know its not an RB, but i had a GCG turbo on my SR20 (XTR-SR-3040) and it hauled ass, and didnt miss a beat, made a nice sound too.... like a police siren :P

My turbo does that too. Kinda cool. :)

  • 4 years later...

Just bumping this. Looking at a GCG hi flowed turbo for my S1 Stagea. Just interested what the lag and power delivery will be like compared to a stock turbo? I want to retain as much low end power as possible, so the rpm it spools at is important, some more lag in building up boost isn't a massive issue, but if it only makes boost above 2500-3000rpms that could be a problem.

Also any comments on the mid range and hi rpm power if I intend to only run around 9psi

Edited by zoomzoom

You will see earlier in the thread that I had one but that was four years ago - there are better and cheaper options now. Talk to Hypergear and he will sort out something to suit you - either exchange or rebuild yours - so no new lines or dumps needed.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/

Ill certainly ask Hypergear. Just reading through the sites you linked, it would seem the SS1 and SS1 billet machined turbo are the best match for what I need - maximum low end response. Anyone using those models?

You will see earlier in the thread that I had one but that was four years ago - there are better and cheaper options now. Talk to Hypergear and he will sort out something to suit you - either exchange or rebuild yours - so no new lines or dumps needed.
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...