Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

By smooth i mean it doesnt look like it will take a finger off if you touched an edge...but you did just say you have been playing with it for a while....im just wonding the best way to cut and bend it to shape.

i do alot of work with 2mm and 3mm aluminium... i use a bandsaw to cut out most shapes, a die grinder to smooth the edges... than a deburring tool to take the corners off... they are the best things ever!!!

bout $20 and they'll last for ever.

manual-deburring-tool-46302.jpg

there are double edged ones that do both sides in one go... but they are double the price.

give me 30k and ill have one built in under 6 months.

you realy want the series 2 because thats when you learn from mistakes and have already fixed all the dud ideas.

But bens is a series 2 for me as a lot of RnD of ideas has been done to my car.

funnily enough the targa car i looked after 2 years ago is for sale and its 15K and about half way developed. Bilstines haltech seats cage big brakes light wheels. just needs some of the finer things done.

Are you not better off putting the ECU on the transmission tunnel so it isnt getting kicked?

Any info on the one for sale for 15k?

At 30k i think they still represent decent value, provided its registered. I have alwasy joked with mates that if i had a clue how to i would make a one make R32 GTSt series...It would be a blast! :cool: But half the fun with this sort of car is really the build, doing things, everything just how you like it.

By the time the Nav foot rest is made it shouldn't be an issue, also with the sea so far back it's less likely to be kicked.

I've made sure i've kept paying the rego on mine, cbf putting it over the pits.

The 15k gtst is black, std body kit but with gtr alloy bonnet+grill. R32 GTR rims+brakes. Cage, extingisher, isolation switch..ect. Pretty sure it's got 2 sparco seats and harnesses. 3" exhaust and dump, Haltech E11v2

Edited by sav man
Are you not better off putting the ECU on the transmission tunnel so it isnt getting kicked?

Any info on the one for sale for 15k?

At 30k i think they still represent decent value, provided its registered. I have alwasy joked with mates that if i had a clue how to i would make a one make R32 GTSt series...It would be a blast! :P But half the fun with this sort of car is really the build, doing things, everything just how you like it.

after having worked on plenty of race cars with electrical dramas you get over trying to bend around roll cages so im putting it all in the one spot.

this was all designed with a specially built foot rest in mind.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making Vag coil loom for rb25det, can anyone confirm the wire guage i’m using for power supply in diagram is enough for supply not too small for loom? For earth do i need to follow the same procedure or i can use only 16awg wire for all coil and their connecting wire following to the plug?
    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
×
×
  • Create New...