Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Great effort I love the interior and the air box is excellent... similar to Group A GTR's no doubt where you got your inspiration from? Are you mounting the radiator lower? (I may have missed that bit).

Great effort I love the interior and the air box is excellent... similar to Group A GTR's no doubt where you got your inspiration from? Are you mounting the radiator lower? (I may have missed that bit).

Race Radiators in Vic are making me a shorter cross flow radiator. When I was at superlap I took a tonne of pics of the GIO airbox, and pretty much copied it

The Fuel system is now together.

P9150269.jpg

P9150265.jpg

P9150266.jpg

P9150268.jpg

Edited by sav man

Nice, im curious though, why you mount the the surge tank at the back of the car? just thinking in the event you backed it in would be about the first thing to go..

Not sayin you would back it it or anything...

it's about parralel with the tank, so there is probably more chance of the 73l plastic tank splitting, than a 1.5l alloy tank.

Main reason I did it was I wanted it behind the axel, and that was just the neatest/easiest place to put it.

photos are way to big ben. ive gone over my download limit just loading one page. homo

So every one. Ben is searching for a oil drain pipe to suit his rb20 turbo. if you have one please let hime know. he has $100 waiting for one.

  • 2 weeks later...

more updates

The airbox is coming together.

PA020283.jpg

PA020286.jpg

Got my turbo back from being highflowed.

PA020284.jpg

PA020285.jpg

I got a split dump from damo, as he has a new turbo setup coming. It was a modified batmbl pipe, so I am putting it back to standard. I welded in the split pipe from being a screamer, to plum back in

PA020288.jpg

PA020289.jpg

PA030290.jpg

PA030291.jpg

Now I just need to extend the main pipe, and put a flange on it.

Steave the roofer made 1/2 of the cover for the parcel shelf

PA030292.jpg

PA030293.jpg

Fuel rail, and 800cc injectors in.

PA020287.jpg

Some say it took steve the roofer half a pack of ciggies to make that. hes still got 1/2 a parcel shelf. 2 doors and 2 rear quarter bits to go.

it is however far better than ben or i could do as ben cuts stuff out worse than a pre-schooler and i cbf'ed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...