Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

stock tail lights are def do-able as there's a guy in japan (yahoo auctions again) that sells nismo-lookalikes, basically stockies with leds inserted into them.

Having said that, I've just recently taken a look myself when I was replacing mine with the eastbear copies .. and the lens is glued on there with some sort of silicone + clips all around, so it'd be a bitch to remove. But maybe with some patience and a spare set to fall back to ..why not try. But then you still have to do the whole leds thing....arrrg. Might be cheaper just to sell the stockies and buy the ones from japan which came to about $600 delivered iirc.

But honestly ..the eastbear copies on ebay.com.au look tops too. I just painted my blinkers orange (as I don't like clear plastics) ..at first I wasn't so fond of the bling but it's grown on me and I could never go back.

Bit more difficult for me - I have an R34 sedan - I don't have many options for LED other than custom or stuff on Yahoo Auctions (which was sitting $700-900 + shipping .. youch)

*sigh* .. What a pain.

The boot light I'd do the wiring and send on in plug n play form, I've got my car to do the test fitting on, so it's no problem just sending on a ready to go item :)

With indicators I've been using 3W Cree LEDs I actually found some decent ones, TrinGT has got them in his car as well...I'll try and get a video of them in action and put it up.

I just ordered a few of those boot light ones for the hell of it, I'll have enough to do 5 cars in a couple of weeks, I got a load of the reverse ones as well, enough to do 3 cars normally or 2 cars with a red and a white.

*actually after just looking it may use 4 of the stirps in there as I can fit in a board of up to 160mm long* So the LED display would be 20 x 2 LEDs anyways I'll build one and take a pic of it, may work out to be ~$35 with the extra board*

  • 2 weeks later...

Dan does this mean i can order now? if so can you PM me and ill make the payments for 2 sets of each [4 reverse in total 2 boot lights]

also Icy there is porn at the end of your link lol not talking about a awesome car or anything. actual japanese porn

Edited by R34P3R

yeah, he's taking the stock tail lights apart and putting LEDs in. Looks like you need a heatgun to separate the lenses which would confirm what I saw when i took mine apart recently ..the lenses are glued on real hard with some type of silicone.

Too much of a hassle to be honest ...just get the eastbear copies off ebay ($330 or so) if you want LED tail lights. I got those and just painted the blinker to amber as I hate the clear plastic crap on any tail lights

  • 2 weeks later...

I didn't realise how interesting this would all be, speaking to my supplier they can even totally reverse engineer a whole light for me and get the thing tooled and copied.

I was tempted to get these made, but not sure how popular they are with the 35 GTR crowd

http://gt-rr.com/gt-r/r35/nissan_japan/par...lights/pid/152#

Hey 666DAN are you using luxeon LED's for the boot lid brake light? That's what I'm currently running... about 5 in a row = MEGA bright!

Most likely not a Luxeon, trying to keep cost on the lower side. I'll be making up a mock sample to send to the manufacturer soon...this is when I'll make a decision on LED type. It will be just as functional, if not more so than stock.

Basically whatever goes in there will follow the concept of the dash light I stock now, super bright LEDs run at 60% output. Like all semiconductors this will actually see closer to the stated max life.

I've replaced mine the other day with the one from opening post from Japan ..looks awesome.

Only issue is when removing the housing some of the old seal cracked away as it was all hard and shit .. It's actually not seal it's some sort of black gunk, like playdough/bluetack. So I need to buy some more of this shit to fill all the gaps nicely so as not to allow water to come in from the outside and give me that dreaded "rust around bootlid tail light on R34" look..

Any ideas what this black gunk is called? It's soft and sticky and black ..like playdough but stickier..

I've replaced mine the other day with the one from opening post from Japan ..looks awesome.

Only issue is when removing the housing some of the old seal cracked away as it was all hard and shit .. It's actually not seal it's some sort of black gunk, like playdough/bluetack. So I need to buy some more of this shit to fill all the gaps nicely so as not to allow water to come in from the outside and give me that dreaded "rust around bootlid tail light on R34" look..

Any ideas what this black gunk is called? It's soft and sticky and black ..like playdough but stickier..

Yeah best bet is to leave the red section in place and unclip the rear of it (heads up for all other people) not sure what they call that stuff.

that black gunk type paste your talking about im pretty sure is what we use at volkswagen, its called Sikaflex. really good stuff that.

and in case you want some piks of the exact setup for the led nismo taillights, as i have genuines in mine, here are some piks:

IMG_8438_web.jpg

IMG_8441_web.jpg

dan, i will take the boot lid brake light insert and both the red and white leds for the reverse

Yeah best bet is to leave the red section in place and unclip the rear of it (heads up for all other people) not sure what they call that stuff.

yeah and those that take it out and ruin that factory seal like I did ..grab a small tube of Bostik (the black one) from bunnings. It's black silicone and costs $4 .. real easy to apply around the edge from the outside, then wipe all excess off and let it dry. Perfecto :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...