Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo Vs. Non Turbo P Plate

skylinelova07
 Share

Recommended Posts

skylinelova07 Contributor

skylinelova07

Posted
Posted

Hi.

I have a problem.. :)

Basically I have found two r34's which I am interested in buying, however, one is turbo (at $19,000) whilst the other is non turbo but $20,000.

I am on my P plate licence and hence i SHOULD buy the non turbo. But if i bought the turbo I would get a better deal but would have to get an exemption + it would be a lot faster and considered more dangerous in the eyes of my parents.

My question is would a gt-t r34 be to powerful for me or would i get the hang of it and (considering I -along with a lot of people i know - think i am one of the safest drivers they have ever driven with) how difficult would it be to get an Exemption for this car from the QLD government?

If any one can help me out with this it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Luke.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281462-turbo-vs-non-turbo-p-plate/
Share on other sites
Benzino33 Experienced

Benzino33

Posted
Posted

how long till you're off your P's? And wat job do you have that would give you an exemption? I think people only get exemptions for work purposes, so you'd only be allowed to drive it to and from work.

Getting the hang of it depends on how in control of yourself you are as a driver. coz i know if i had my skyline when i was 18, i would hav wraped it around a pole coz of the power.

I think you're better off getting the N/A, selling it to another p plater en u get ur full license and buy the turbo one then- they'll probably be cheaper then anyway.

Theres been a lot of threads about these issues so just do a search and im sure somethin will come up.

cheers

skylinelova07 Contributor

skylinelova07

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
how long till you're off your P's? And wat job do you have that would give you an exemption? I think people only get exemptions for work purposes, so you'd only be allowed to drive it to and from work.

Getting the hang of it depends on how in control of yourself you are as a driver. coz i know if i had my skyline when i was 18, i would hav wraped it around a pole coz of the power.

I think you're better off getting the N/A, selling it to another p plater en u get ur full license and buy the turbo one then- they'll probably be cheaper then anyway.

Theres been a lot of threads about these issues so just do a search and im sure somethin will come up.

cheers

Thanks Benzino. I think i'm going to take your advice there cause firstly I don't want to be just driving it to and from work. And secondly, I don't really wanna wrap it around a pole cause i know it would be tempting to just floor it from time to time. So, thanks again :).

Luke.

Edited by skylinelova07
SL33K Experienced

SL33K

Posted
Posted

just buy the turbo one for about 900bucks less and then use that 900bucks to buy a crappy daily which you can use for work.

atleast u can keep admiring your r34 while ur on ur P's and pretend to drive it in the driveway till ur off ur P's

Benzino33 Experienced

Benzino33

Posted
Posted
Thanks Benzino. I think i'm going to take your advice there cause firstly I don't want to be just driving it to and from work. And secondly, I don't really wanna wrap it around a pole cause i know it would be tempting to just floor it from time to time. So, thanks again :) .

Luke.

No problem man, drive the NA and get more experience, thats the best way.

cheers

Keeper Experienced

Keeper

Posted
Posted

The government made the rule for a reason, buy a cheaper RWD N/A, have fun in it, by the time you are allowd a turbo you will be hopefully able to drive with a bit more confidence.

When I got my P's turbo cars werent so cheap, my first RWD wasnt quick, but it taught me about throttle control and conering, and I did spin it out a couple times, not intentionally, and because it was a pig it was slow enough I didnt damage anything.

[200] Mentor

[200]

Posted
Posted

It will be too powerful for you and you will kill yourself in it.

You won't be able to get an exception because you have had the choice of owning a non turbocharged car. Queensland Transport and the Government wouldn't give a rats arse that the turbocharged vehicle was better value.

Buy a shit box, save your money (or your parents) so when you're on your full licence you will be able to buy something nice.

syfon Veteran

syfon

Posted
Posted

My first car was a Toyota Paseo...1.5L 4cyl with no power and then i went to my R33 GTS-t while still on my P's....

It's not all about the power of the car, but more so about how much experience you have on the roads, however the power of the car does make a difference.

Since i have had my car, i have learnt a lot in the way of driving a car with reasonably high power, rwd and lsd....just dont do anything stupid and if you want to, take it to the track where it's a safer environment for all.

Plus the R34 GT-T's have traction control as far as i know?

skylinelova07 Contributor

skylinelova07

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

This is my second car. My first car (which i owned for a year now) was a mazda 1000 ute (very slow, 1L) and i often drive my brothers Datsun 1600 which isn't exactly powerful but its not slow. Have driven a Supra a couple of times and never found that to be too fast (164KW). So based on this, does anyone have any more input?

Thanks Syfon for your input, this sounds like me so i thought i would just ask if anyone else has had a similar experience?

Luke

Edited by skylinelova07
Kranker Collaborator

Kranker

Posted
Posted

im not sure where you are looking at these cars, but a 2 sec look on carsales shows that generally a 25GT should be significantly less than a GTT, and well under $20k.

find a cheaper 25GT, drive that around for a year or two. then you can decide if you want to upgrade to a GTT.

DC33VN Experienced

DC33VN

Posted
Posted

pretty much the goverment will do anything and everything they can do to stop you from getting a exemption and if you do , you can only use it within what you got it for. my friends a mechanic and he got the exemption but he can only drive turbo cars during work hours

peterw Community Regular

peterw

Posted
Posted (edited)

Depends how long you've got left on your P's. If it's not too long, hold out and get the GTT. I went the NA because I wasn't going to try and hold out 3 years on P's without being pulled over, or even being in an accident (would void insurance I'm sure). The NA should be an easy sell too considering how many new P-platers would be after them with the no-turbo rules.

People saying car is too powerful etc is load of crap. If you're a twat and plant the foot at all times, etc, and crash - you brought it on yourself, dont blame the car!

Edited by peterw
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted
i brought my R34 GT for $20,000 3 years ago fresh from japan, cant believe they would still be selling at that price!?

it depends on the individual car. just like how with turbo models you can find a variance of 10 to 15k for the same model

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

As has been said, stick with the N/A. Too many reasons why you shouldn't buy a turbo and only one why you should.

Can't believe you're looking at a 20k N/A though...I've seen them in very good nick for 15 grand.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Duncan · Posted

      Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      Sorry. Front brake calipers
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...