Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 162
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I had another look at the GTR yesterday. All the carbon looks amazing. Rear parcel shelf, bootlid & spoiler, bonnet/vents, engine bay, gearshift paddles, even new sport steering wheel. This Guy is the CARBON KING of South Australia!!! Very cool car.

Looking forward to hearing it under full noise out at the track. More photos Martin.........and maybe some dyno sheets?

Love to see the comparison to stock setup.

Near enough 400kw at all four wheels on our new Mainline AWD dyno at 17psi boost pressure is a nice start with a conservative tune, up from 270kw at all four stock. Thats getting close to a 50% power and matching torque improvement :D

The upgraded WR35TT turbochargers are responding nicely with excellent flat boost control, not tapering away or running out of puff at the top end like the stock pieces do. Also they will not suffer the same accelerated thrust wear and failure that the stock turbochargers do over 15psi, due to being ball bearing (no thrust bearing). So its looking nice at this stage :down:

Martin

When does the boost cut in for the new turbos? Same as the stock or a little later?

Has this affected the way the car takes off or does your car still have a little lag (if it is a ADM car) ?

Regards

Mark.

This owner could have bought a 911 or a Lambo etc, but he chose to go sick on a new R35 GTR.

Good on him. I went for a run in this car yesterday & it is awesome. Definate improvement over

my Std R35. Will look forward to going out in the country where we can stretch its legs a bit more.

Hmmm... these new turbos are looking good.

The best way of describing the response of this package is to show you the raw numbers. Attached is a dyno graph from our Mainline Chassis dyno that shows you exactly the gains vs a tune + midpipe GTR in actual percentage - the very best way of showing the comparison :)

wr35ttdiff.jpg

The best way of describing the response of this package is to show you the raw numbers. Attached is a dyno graph from our Mainline Chassis dyno that shows you exactly the gains vs a tune + midpipe GTR in actual percentage - the very best way of showing the comparison :woot:

wr35ttdiff.jpg

How large is the trade off lower in the rev range given the turbo's are now larger?

I did not get to go far in this car but it did not feel much different from the bottom end.

The new ball bearing core spools up faster than the std plain bearing & this car has aftermarket

dumps that replace the primary cats so less back pressure.

To really tell the difference I would have to drive this one & then mine back to back but considering

how new this car all is I dont see that happening & I wouldn't expect to.

Going for a ride in it will be fun enough.

The boost response of these turbochargers is absolutely excellent. No doubt there is a couple of hundred rpm difference in the spool - it is impossible to avoid this when going to larger turbochargers, however the short initial gearing of the GTR and its lightning fast 'on boost' GR6 transmission effectively hide any of this to the point where the car feels like it has stock bottom end response. Where it is much different is higher in the rpm where the compressors simply dont run 'out of wind' and fall of boost like the stock items do. Most importantly being ball bearing cored there are no thrust bearings to go into rapid wear and failure mode as happens with the stock GTR turbos. My belief - and I am biased on this one so forgive me - is that the WR35TT modification is superbly matched to the GTR, adding reliability with ball bearing core design, and integrating all of the factory pleasantness of a properly integrated turbocharger solution.

As for US dealers and fitters. We have a main Willall distributor in Atlanta Georgia, that being Forged Performance, and then several dealers throughout the country. Fontana Nissan Motorsport in LA, SPE are another in Socal, in fact there are many dealers you can work with directly on the East Coast of the US that have access to Willall parts and technology :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...