Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thank you for your comments everyone! Its been great sharing my build with you!

Big Engine Update as we approach the finale of this build! I hope you like what you see - keep the comments coming

Built engine finds its rightful home in the engine bay! Engine bay has been repainted gloss white. The original factory matt off white colour looks too dull.

Main colour scheme is 'black and white Storm-Trooper' look.

dscf00112.jpg

dscf00172c.jpg

dscf0024v.jpg

Engine cam covers and oil catch can painted in crinkled black finish; all hoses and attachments are black as well. A few words that come to mind to describe the engine bay: 'mean'; 'industrial'; 'military' and 'stealth'.

Close up of crinkled paint finish. The paint is not uniformed in appearance and gives it a very unique look. It is different to the textured finish on say the Mines' signature purple or the Nismo S1; R1 red cam engine covers.

Note 'HKS Power' logo on the V cam cover - looks tough!

dscf0039qv.jpg

dscf0040ls.jpg

dscf0032k.jpg

Detailed images of V Cam badge; V Cam solenoid, wiring and oil line input and HKS limited edition oil cap

dscf0037r.jpg

dscf0035ct.jpg

dscf0038tf.jpg

Other supporting accessories:

Racepace custom Oil catch can and washer fluid combination, again in crinkled black finish. Hoses are neatly tucked away to be unobtrusive:

dscf0016dl.jpg

dscf0021se.jpg

dscf0022bv.jpg

dscf0041h.jpg

Racepace spec custom PWR based 50mm radiator:

dscf0017l.jpg

dscf0044m.jpg

Nismo Z Tune 100mm thick intercooler:

dscf0018xc.jpg

dscf0015dp.jpg

SARD 700cc injectors denoted by the light blue colour on the injector body:

dscf0029m.jpg

dscf0036jz.jpg

Nismo Air intake duct:

dscf0019rj.jpg

Nismo aluminum piping:

dscf0023av.jpg

dscf0033k.jpg

dscf0043ws.jpg

I still have a few more surprises up my sleeve. (Hint - I am a wheel whore and the black and white Storm trooper theme...... :thumbsup: )

Thank you guys for feedback!

Gts30t Posted Yesterday, 08:13 AM

Looks awesome matt, a nice strut bar would really finish off that bay

I planned to replace stock strut bar with Cusco Carbon fibre ALC40 when funds permit. Also planned Garage Defend Carbon radiator cooling panel.

Aaron34 Posted Yesterday, 08:28 PM

beautiful job. No other way to describe it. Wow..

Now it needs to be shipped to Germany with mine and Snowmans to be truely enjoyed...

Pity I don't have the driving skills like you guys to make the most of it! :(

BBGTR Posted Yesterday, 08:35 PM

I always like to see someone who is more anal than me when it comes to preparation.

Yes, I am super 'anal'. Believe it or not, I polish the rear bar after a every drive, because so much soot and fumes get blown out the rear end. As the car is white, if the fumes are left longer than a few days, the rear bumper; boot; spoiler supports and rear light cover goes yellow.

bigmikespec Posted Today, 02:13 PM

Was there a decision made to keep the orginal plenum instead of going for a Nismo version?

I sold the Nismo plenum to another fellow member. Beno said that the Nismo plenum is good for mildly tuned RBs; but for RB28 its actually going to reduce output! He measured the inlet and the Nismo one is smaller in diameter compared to the stock item. The chamber of the Nismo carries more volume though and therefore beneficial for standard capacity RBs.

awesome car mate and great choice of bits. there is not anything I can really fault with it. it will be an absolute weapon to drive and should give years of fun. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Why are people so insistent on making dirty water?!
    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...