Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok here is a question for you fellas that track your 300kw Skylines.

I've been changing the oil after every track day. My GTR makes about 290 kw and has oil catch can, oil cooler, bigger radiator and runs 14-18 psi lo/hi boost depending on the type of track I'm driving.

After about 10 minutes of track time my oil temp is 120 where I do a cool down and come in.

Since the oil temp is so high and on boost for so long I've always felt it is a good idea to change the oil right after coming home from a track day. Always been the first thing I do.

So my question - do you fellas do that too? It is getting a bit expensive cause I only use Motul 300v or Mobile1 Full Syn - so about $100 for an oil change. This on top of track fees, brakes, petrol and tyres. If this is the cost then I'd rather spend $100 preventing oil related engine failure than $$$ for a rebuild. But just want to know how you folks go?

I know a lot of other guys just do normal 5k and don't change their oil after every track day.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295705-replace-oil-after-every-track-day/
Share on other sites

I change oil every track day, but i do it the other way around. I change the oil before every track day. That way i know i have anice fresh sump and filter before every track day and oil that is in decent enough condition for pottering around on the streets, which lets face it, you can barely gas secon gear on the street so hardly stressful for the engine or the oil you are running

I change oil every track day, but i do it the other way around. I change the oil before every track day. That way i know i have anice fresh sump and filter before every track day and oil that is in decent enough condition for pottering around on the streets, which lets face it, you can barely gas secon gear on the street so hardly stressful for the engine or the oil you are running

I change my oil every 10 minutes...about how long my engine runs at a meet. :banana:

With around 20K in engine parts invested (my labour is free as i build them myself) a $250 oil change ($25 a litre plus filter) is cheap insurance. I use Motul 300V 'Le Mans' 20W60 and built the engine to run this oil weight.

If it picked up a bearing and or threw a rod and i didn't do this id be always thinking whether if i had done the oil if it would have happened.

Edited by DiRTgarage

I also change my oil before every track day, I dont want to spin a bearing like many others have. I rarely drive my car on the street so i'm not worried about having track day oil in it.

Hmmm, seems to make sense doing it before but means I'm going to go through twice as much oil changing before and after. Maybe I should keep the "street" oil and put that back in after a race day but only run on the race oil for just that track day.

Another expense of having a track/daily driven car. Oh well, need to take care of the beast.

Dont worry about after. Seriosly, if you have done a track day on a sump of oil then i dont see a problem with running it for 4,500-5,000kms. Temp and contaminants are what hurt oil and i cant see you getting too much f either sitting in traffic or going for a drive on the street.

If you run standard or extended sump definatley change before every track day. I personally change my oil every 2-3 track days as I run a dry sump set up with water to oil cooler set up in the radiator end tank so i run around 12-15lt of oil in total inc lines and cooler and the oil temp never sees over 110 deg. Heat is what kills oil so if you can keep the heat down that will go a long way to keeping your oil healthy.

We used to do the oil change just before every track day when i was running the Royal Purple 10w40. When we changed to the RP41 racing oil, we were able to start using the oil for 2 track days as long as I don't do a lot of street k's between them (1000 - 1500). The oil is still seeing < 2500km's total and when we send it away to be tested all results are A-OK.

We did a test where we changed the oil, did about 200k's street, then a track day, (so, <500ks total) sent the oil away to be tested. Drove the car for 1200k's street, did another track day, another few hundred k's on the street, and sent away another oil test. The only difference between the 2 samples was a tiny bit more fuel dilution (about half a percent up from 2.5 -> 3).

Im new to the game but I change it before the track day, Mines a quasi daily as it only comes out if its raining or if I go for a cruise with my daughter and such.

Or if its cold

Or if it hot

Or I have the need, the need for speed (sorry).

I figure it is the combination of heat and lots of boost that might degrade my oil. Basically 110-120 every session for 5-6 sessions over 120k's and a fair bit of boost. I thought that the boost will create bigger compression and therefore more blowby past the rings into the block - e.g. more contaminents. Also I use a return style catch can and get a fair bit of oil/air mix com'n out of the breathers then draining back in.

All good advice here folks I will probably switch to doing the oil change before the track day.

I change oil every track day, but i do it the other way around. I change the oil before every track day. That way i know i have anice fresh sump and filter before every track day and oil that is in decent enough condition for pottering around on the streets, which lets face it, you can barely gas secon gear on the street so hardly stressful for the engine or the oil you are running

HAHA...I'm in the same boat, I pretty much do the same.

  • 2 weeks later...

but seriously....change it before the track day, and after if the oil got hot. otherwise like roy said run it for ages on the street.

mine is track only so I change it every 3-4 days, which is normally 2-3 race meets.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It might be worth having a good look at the chassis behind the bumper then; most people prefer the series 2 look so it might have been changed to cheaper parts as part of an earlier repair
    • The car itself a series 2. I was just curious about the headlights and just wanted to confirm that they were series 1. Good to know the rest of the front end is series 1. It’ll be easier for me to find parts on the aftermarket side of things lol
    • If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
    • THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
    • Light should be a pressure switch, not a sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...