Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 477
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

whats the best way to do a join, for a bonnet, my R33 bonnet is too big and would need to pieces, any hint or tips, DRIFTT, wanna do my bonnet for a carton of corona???

Lay one in a straight line then place second one next to it............ Not as simple as that but other things like temp come into account.

F#&K that and it is better with 2 or 3 people and if that cheap shit I would not look at doing any job with it.

Edited by Guest
Lay one in a straight line then place second one next to it............ Not as simple as that but other things like temp come into account.

F#&K that and it is better with 2 or 3 people and if that cheap shit I would not look at doing any job with it.

i saw u replied in that for sale thread of his. thought it was too cheap to be true,

Charles I'm waiting for you to do a full gainer on the whole car, excellent work on the Z.

Haha thanks :P but a whole will never happen :)

looks ok

Looks ok only in certain angles, at other angles, the coated just looks like gloss black.

hey just wondering what this stuff is like to use? is it similar to an avery 700 series or thicker like a reflective media? and how long is it rated (3yrs) ?

This vinyl will go soft when heated, so you can work it around corners and stuff.

3M gurantees 4yrs lifespan outdoor with UV protection

hey just wondering what this stuff is like to use? is it similar to an avery 700 series or thicker like a reflective media? and how long is it rated (3yrs) ?

It is nothing like normal cast vinyl but if you have used it a fair bit or done vehicle wraps it helps.

will this stuff loosen on hot days?

say you heated it to strech around something, if it gets hot one day will it come loose?

If you have curves and the correct primer isn't used, yes it will come loose. You have to take your time not stretching it to much and bring those bubbles out before you fit the bits.

Ah k so its a calendered polymeric film. fark must take ages to get it to conform around those small curves, i just want to do boot and bonnet so shouldnt be hard.

Driftt do you work in a sign shop? Im looking at wrapping my car matte black and need to source some vinyl. Spandex, qual sign and robayne pretty pricey over the counter.

One issue with clear coating people forget is that there is movement of the material so on items that might flex the coating will crack, just a point as to why it isn't clear coated.

Ah k so its a calendered polymeric film. fark must take ages to get it to conform around those small curves, i just want to do boot and bonnet so shouldnt be hard.

Driftt do you work in a sign shop? Im looking at wrapping my car matte black and need to source some vinyl. Spandex, qual sign and robayne pretty pricey over the counter.

Message me your details, what you are after and will see what I can do to help you out.

Edited by Guest

Hi Charles, awesome works you've done here! I'd like to get some of those CF vinyl to try on my car. I couldn't pm u coz I havent had enough post yet. Anyway, can you give me a quote and it's gonna be good if I can pick it up next week. I'll hav whole week next week off to play with it. Thanks!

Ever since i saw DRIFTT's pic of a dash being wrapped, I also wanted to wrap mine. How much do you guys reckon it would take to wrap a whole 180sx dash? My dash has a few small cracks and I want to replace it or wrap it in this stuff. Even if this is more expensive then just replacing the dash, I'd rather go with the carbon look.

Ever since i saw DRIFTT's pic of a dash being wrapped, I also wanted to wrap mine. How much do you guys reckon it would take to wrap a whole 180sx dash? My dash has a few small cracks and I want to replace it or wrap it in this stuff. Even if this is more expensive then just replacing the dash, I'd rather go with the carbon look.

I have a whole load of Nissan bits coming in from a mate, he will be doing it on a direct exchange basis with the Carbon Wrapped parts sitting on the shelf ready, started doing them already to build the stock up. Looking at S13, S14, R32, R33 and some other one's not 100% sure. Since you have to use a primer you can use lower grade parts which of course are worth less so even though wrapped the cost isn't much higher then A grade parts.

Got a complete AE86 trim to do now for same guy, better to repair cracks and just wrap it compared to tracking down a new/decent replacement dash.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...