Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

about 2 months ago i decided to get the turbo removed from my rb25det, due to p plate laws.. after getting this done i discovered the car does not have anywhere near as much power (sorry all the people that advised me against this i should of listened and you were right), in fact the compression is so low that my girlfriends barina has more up and go, so about 2 weeks ago i decided its time to stop embarrasing myself and put the turbo back in. i bolted the turbo in no problems at all, took me bout 20 mins i thought it would be easy, but i failed to take into consideration 2 copper pipes coming out of the turbo its self and a thicker (screw on) pipe, im not sure where the 2 copper pipes go i cant find anywhere around the turbo area where they would connect to, also they look exactly the same and (apparently) they do different things (one for water one for oil) so i wouldnt want to get this wrong and do some permanent damage to something. i found the spot where the thicker pipe screws onto but i could not locate anywhere to attach the skinny bendable copper pipes around the area where the turbo sits, i do have car ramps if its easier to get to from underneith.. surley someone on this forum would of done this themselves or know of someone who has done this before, would really appreciate a little help.. thanks..

this is what is in place of the turbo at the moment

in the photos below the RED circles are the copper pipes that im talking about, where i dont know the location of..

the GREEN circles are another thing, in the first photo im unsure where that yellow rubber tube goes as there is no location that i can see around the area of the turbo where it would plug onto, in the second photo theres also another cut off yellow rubber tube that has been cut off and had a screw put in it to prevent flow behind the block near the clutch fluid bottle, i dont know what this goes to either, if anyone can help thanks very much..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300900-putting-a-turbo-back-in/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 118
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

about 2 months ago i decided to get the turbo removed from my rb25det, due to p plate laws.. after getting this done i discovered the car does not have anywhere near as much power (sorry all the people that advised me against this i should of listened and you were right), in fact the compression is so low that my girlfriends barina has more up and go, so about 2 weeks ago i decided its time to stop embarrasing myself and put the turbo back in. i bolted the turbo in no problems at all, took me bout 20 mins i thought it would be easy, but i failed to take into consideration 2 copper pipes coming out of the turbo its self and a thicker (screw on) pipe, im not sure where the 2 copper pipes go i cant find anywhere around the turbo area where they would connect to, also they look exactly the same and (apparently) they do different things (one for water one for oil) so i wouldnt want to get this wrong and do some permanent damage to something. i found the spot where the thicker pipe screws onto but i could not locate anywhere to attach the skinny bendable copper pipes around the area where the turbo sits, i do have car ramps if its easier to get to from underneith.. surley someone on this forum would of done this themselves or know of someone who has done this before, would really appreciate a little help.. thanks..

this is what is in place of the turbo at the moment

in the photos below the RED circles are the copper pipes that im talking about, where i dont know the location of..

the GREEN circles are another thing, in the first photo im unsure where that yellow rubber tube goes as there is no location that i can see around the area of the turbo where it would plug onto, in the second photo theres also another cut off yellow rubber tube that has been cut off and had a screw put in it to prevent flow behind the block near the clutch fluid bottle, i dont know what this goes to either, if anyone can help thanks very much..

Perhaps you should take it to whoever it was that removed it, and get them to re install the turbo.

The big one at the bottom is the oil drain, the one on the opposite side of the housing to it, is the oil inlet.

The remaining pipe will be one of two water lines, but there should be two of them, one inlet and one out let.

The hose in the green circle is a boost line that activates the wastegate actuator. I'd say it should be connected to the one by the clutch reservoir that's been sealed off with a screw.

both of those copper pipes attach onto the block, the oil line (the one with the curl in it) sits towards the middle of the motor - the water pipe shown sits towards the rear of the motor (when you attach the bracket for this, it should line up to its location). there is another water line that wraps around from the other side of the motor.

here are pics ive got of mine, they arent the best but i hope it helps:

post-13452-1261362245_thumb.jpg post-13452-1261362263_thumb.jpg post-13452-1261362280_thumb.jpg

One near the clutch fluid is the nipple that should run to the factory boost sensor, really no need for that one to have been disconnected.

The yellow hose running off the wastegate will need to go to the factory boost solenoid which is behind the intake filter box. From memory the solenoid isn't a simple in/out configuration and had a t piece thrown in, just go on ebay and get a $30 turbotech boost controller instead.

And yes you'll probably need to drain oil and coolant before removing any blocking screws from the block.

Edited by nicr4wks
One near the clutch fluid is the nipple that should run to the factory boost sensor, really no need for that one to have been disconnected.

The yellow hose running off the wastegate will need to go to the factory boost solenoid which is behind the intake filter box. From memory the solenoid isn't a simple in/out configuration and had a t piece thrown in, just go on ebay and get a $30 turbotech boost controller instead.

And yes you'll probably need to drain oil and coolant before removing any blocking screws from the block.

Unless that nipple is running the wastegate and the solenoid has been by-passed for some reason.

Unless that nipple is running the wastegate and the solenoid has been by-passed for some reason.

Wastegate sensor coming off the plenum after the intake throttle on the stock setup would be a little unusual, but then again wonders never cease  :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...