Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

about 2 months ago i decided to get the turbo removed from my rb25det, due to p plate laws.. after getting this done i discovered the car does not have anywhere near as much power (sorry all the people that advised me against this i should of listened and you were right), in fact the compression is so low that my girlfriends barina has more up and go, so about 2 weeks ago i decided its time to stop embarrasing myself and put the turbo back in. i bolted the turbo in no problems at all, took me bout 20 mins i thought it would be easy, but i failed to take into consideration 2 copper pipes coming out of the turbo its self and a thicker (screw on) pipe, im not sure where the 2 copper pipes go i cant find anywhere around the turbo area where they would connect to, also they look exactly the same and (apparently) they do different things (one for water one for oil) so i wouldnt want to get this wrong and do some permanent damage to something. i found the spot where the thicker pipe screws onto but i could not locate anywhere to attach the skinny bendable copper pipes around the area where the turbo sits, i do have car ramps if its easier to get to from underneith.. surley someone on this forum would of done this themselves or know of someone who has done this before, would really appreciate a little help.. thanks..

this is what is in place of the turbo at the moment

in the photos below the RED circles are the copper pipes that im talking about, where i dont know the location of..

the GREEN circles are another thing, in the first photo im unsure where that yellow rubber tube goes as there is no location that i can see around the area of the turbo where it would plug onto, in the second photo theres also another cut off yellow rubber tube that has been cut off and had a screw put in it to prevent flow behind the block near the clutch fluid bottle, i dont know what this goes to either, if anyone can help thanks very much..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300900-putting-a-turbo-back-in/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 118
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

about 2 months ago i decided to get the turbo removed from my rb25det, due to p plate laws.. after getting this done i discovered the car does not have anywhere near as much power (sorry all the people that advised me against this i should of listened and you were right), in fact the compression is so low that my girlfriends barina has more up and go, so about 2 weeks ago i decided its time to stop embarrasing myself and put the turbo back in. i bolted the turbo in no problems at all, took me bout 20 mins i thought it would be easy, but i failed to take into consideration 2 copper pipes coming out of the turbo its self and a thicker (screw on) pipe, im not sure where the 2 copper pipes go i cant find anywhere around the turbo area where they would connect to, also they look exactly the same and (apparently) they do different things (one for water one for oil) so i wouldnt want to get this wrong and do some permanent damage to something. i found the spot where the thicker pipe screws onto but i could not locate anywhere to attach the skinny bendable copper pipes around the area where the turbo sits, i do have car ramps if its easier to get to from underneith.. surley someone on this forum would of done this themselves or know of someone who has done this before, would really appreciate a little help.. thanks..

this is what is in place of the turbo at the moment

in the photos below the RED circles are the copper pipes that im talking about, where i dont know the location of..

the GREEN circles are another thing, in the first photo im unsure where that yellow rubber tube goes as there is no location that i can see around the area of the turbo where it would plug onto, in the second photo theres also another cut off yellow rubber tube that has been cut off and had a screw put in it to prevent flow behind the block near the clutch fluid bottle, i dont know what this goes to either, if anyone can help thanks very much..

Perhaps you should take it to whoever it was that removed it, and get them to re install the turbo.

The big one at the bottom is the oil drain, the one on the opposite side of the housing to it, is the oil inlet.

The remaining pipe will be one of two water lines, but there should be two of them, one inlet and one out let.

The hose in the green circle is a boost line that activates the wastegate actuator. I'd say it should be connected to the one by the clutch reservoir that's been sealed off with a screw.

both of those copper pipes attach onto the block, the oil line (the one with the curl in it) sits towards the middle of the motor - the water pipe shown sits towards the rear of the motor (when you attach the bracket for this, it should line up to its location). there is another water line that wraps around from the other side of the motor.

here are pics ive got of mine, they arent the best but i hope it helps:

post-13452-1261362245_thumb.jpg post-13452-1261362263_thumb.jpg post-13452-1261362280_thumb.jpg

One near the clutch fluid is the nipple that should run to the factory boost sensor, really no need for that one to have been disconnected.

The yellow hose running off the wastegate will need to go to the factory boost solenoid which is behind the intake filter box. From memory the solenoid isn't a simple in/out configuration and had a t piece thrown in, just go on ebay and get a $30 turbotech boost controller instead.

And yes you'll probably need to drain oil and coolant before removing any blocking screws from the block.

Edited by nicr4wks
One near the clutch fluid is the nipple that should run to the factory boost sensor, really no need for that one to have been disconnected.

The yellow hose running off the wastegate will need to go to the factory boost solenoid which is behind the intake filter box. From memory the solenoid isn't a simple in/out configuration and had a t piece thrown in, just go on ebay and get a $30 turbotech boost controller instead.

And yes you'll probably need to drain oil and coolant before removing any blocking screws from the block.

Unless that nipple is running the wastegate and the solenoid has been by-passed for some reason.

Unless that nipple is running the wastegate and the solenoid has been by-passed for some reason.

Wastegate sensor coming off the plenum after the intake throttle on the stock setup would be a little unusual, but then again wonders never cease  :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...