Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I don't think the problem is so much them braking, but the whole car on 4 skinny posts with fairly small base could just topple over sooner or later.

Regardless, knowing you are a careful man I still congratulate you on the effort. There is nothing quite as satisfying as working on your own car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303133-my-r35/page/3/#findComment-5039312
Share on other sites

Because jack stands just brake everyday and all 4 fail at the same time?

You can't be serious.

How'd you manage that, did the jackstand break on it?

The caliper bolt just broke undoing it. Perghaps it was seized a bit. Nothing to do with the jack stands!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303133-my-r35/page/3/#findComment-5039587
Share on other sites

trust all went well

how were the new rotors and pads?

I had a shocker of a day yesterday (last sprint at OP) the slicks were just not working, there was little grip. I was running about 1 second slower than last time i was there (with RE55's) so i am not sure what to say about the brakes yet; i just couldnt get into a groove and was focused on other things.

I will say that the j-hooks are rather noisy though, you wouldnt go for them unless you are chasing track times i reckon. Sorry, hopefully i have more meaningful feedback after the next track day.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303133-my-r35/page/3/#findComment-5040032
Share on other sites

Awesome - you could see a smoke out the drivers window. You reckon it had something to do with you putting the suspension setting to softer, if I'm not mistaken, as you were going down the straight..

I was actually turning VDC Off. Lately i've been running the outlap with it on for a bit of cold tyre safety. Probably a waste of time. Anyway all my PB's are with VDC off (you can't run your quickest with it on). The car wouldnt have done that with VDC on. I was just over-driving with cold/worn slicks simple as that i guess.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303133-my-r35/page/3/#findComment-5043382
Share on other sites

Its an easy analysis after watching the video Dunc, that neat little tip in wobble to settle the front is now gone, as the front doesnt bite, which then causes you to lift the gas, then step back on it, which unsettles the rear, which also doesnt bite. No grip - time for fresh Michelins :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303133-my-r35/page/3/#findComment-5043419
Share on other sites

totally unintentional! the tyres just were not working (dunlop slicks). I have some video i will post up soon (equally sloppy) but gives you an idea

in my experience with a porsche cup car the michelein slicks are much better than the dunlops. we always run the micheleins but one or two events had the dunlops as the category tyre so we had to use them and were about a second off the pace on them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303133-my-r35/page/3/#findComment-5044461
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...