Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Whats the engine condition like?

Still like new upon start up no extra noises or loss of compression?

Thanx peoples. I'm in the process of a engine rebuild and would like to know if the benifits out weight the negatives for a daily driven 25-30,000km a year driven car. I need the car/engine to last at least another 3 years.

So basically what I'm asking is will forged pistons last 100,000km's and still have near perfect compression and oil usage?

Joel Joel Joel, mate you're gunna' research youself into an early grave! :D

I'm sure if you talk to enough people & read enough web info you'll get answers/opinons that vary wildly.

I can honestly say I have never heard anyone complain about the life of a forged piston equiped engine.

Edit - Cold starts - no change from when it was stock internals. Basically the engine is as smooth (if not smoother) than it use to be! The choice of pistons is one thing but the quality of the build is the big one (ie tolerances)

hahah lol.. I've just been down to speak to the blokes at RPM. There's no long term reliability issues due to forged pistons IF the bore is machined to suit the pistons and clearances are set correctly.

They mentioned that black CA18 180sx that is making 310rwkw at the wheels. Thats been running for around 3years with no drama's at all, and several VL Turbos.

They also mentioned.. Porsche, BMW etc. run forged pistons in their HP engines with no problems.

I think its a bit of a wives tale from the old days where forged pistons required large clearances hence sloppy bores that caused lots of wear on start-up eventually causing an early retirement.

I was out at AIR with James & Shaun @ the last AIR comp/street meet & James was talking about how poor it is to see freshly rebuilt engines in this day & age that burn oil.

4AGZEs use forged pistons from the factory also. The old loose pistons are long gone. Piston technology has advanced alot since those days and a car with forged pistons should be nice and smooth these days as long as they are installed with the right tollerances.

Geoff.

Didn't know that pistons wore out, my understanding is the rings that wear out, think about it! So rings are just as important if not so more, and yes, the higher the silicon content in the metal composition of a piston, means it will require more clearance, if nec, just warm it up nicely. If they were a prob. big dollars exotics would not use them instead of hypo pistons.

Thanx ppls.. :cheers: Makes me feel better.

I'm going Wiseco as they have been around for many years and are avaliable at a snap of the fingers for $1400 with rings.. Also little bit of trivia.. Did you know Wiseco make the rings for a lot of the top brand pistons.. CP, JE etc was in the list.. :)

Just as a matter of interest, what piston bore clearances are you guys running ?

With my Arias forgies the bores were finished oversize to give seven thou clearance, that was with a turbo Ford six cylinder motor that has a 94 mm bore. It lasted about 30,000 Km and had some serious ring sealing problems.

I still have these pistons attached to Crower rods, but no digital camera here unfortunately.

Warpspeed... 7 thou is a lot, over double what wiseco recommend.

Wiseco recommend 3 thou for a street car or up to 24psi and 4 thou for 24psi+ & if the car is being used for race.

Warpspeed.. That wasn't an older 250 ford motor was it?

I had a TE cortina that I had a little bit of work done to when I was younger.

I found after 200,000km's (probably had the clock wound back though) the bores were glazed and had a huge lip that required the bore to be bored out 1.5mm. Maybe the reliability of forged pistons in some motors is greater than others. The RB's are known for having very clean new looking bores even after hundreds of thousands of kays.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...