Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Would it be possible to set up some sort of clutching system so it slips slightly until you get right on the throttle making it quieter?

All the supercharged v8s I hear only tend to really whine when full throttle.

Edited by Rolls

Rolls I dont think I could incorporate that sort of system unfortunately. The noise is abit different to that on a regular supercharged v8. Because their unit is mounted straight onto the inlet manifold the thickness of the ally dampens the noise from the outlet. But they usually also have an airbox that the intake sucks from unless its old school with carby on top with bug catchers through the bonnet. But most of those use roots blowers which are a little quieter then a twin screw as they dont internally compress. Plus I believe their whine is from the actual gears meshing not the pumping noises of the unit itself.

At idle and through most of the rev range the induction noise is really loud and then it gets overpowered by the pulsing outlet noise from the charger which is fine at higher rpm. Its just the idle noise I want to dull down.

After a video or two you will know what I mean.

Lol nice one Duncan. I have and I dont want to have to re do anything, not yet anyway. Lol if I do have to re do anything then I will consider twin charging it. Maybe in years to come. Build a tough RB30, another custom exhaust manifold to mount something like a gt45 or something around that to try and have a super responsive 1000hp.....

i know for a fact that a nice big 16x11x8" muffler will fit on the back of an R33, combined with the decent sized mid muffler you have now that should take a lot of the noise out, i know on a turbo skyline one of them mufflers and a hotdog will get a 3" exhaust to legal levels. (as mine is a 16x11x6 + hotdog mid muffler and reads 89db @ 4000, 92db @ idle)

Being NA it will be a bit harder to make quiet but you can always go a custom huge muffler if off the shelf sizes dont take enough out.

9" will fit also.

I'm running a cat, followed by a 5" mid muffler thats 550 mm long (Able to go out to 950MM from memory we measured), followed by a 7" Body, 950mm long, (These are both "cannon" style but custom made with fibre glass packing)

The rear one we measured we can push out to around 9/10" round without an issue.

There is also room to fit a 5" body stainless packed front muffler before the cat (Like some rotary guys do)

We looked at if need be on my system running the stainless muffler as part of the dump pipe.

There is so much room under a skyline for mufflers, it's awesome.

Lol that badge is awesome!

No new videos or updates yet sorry. Ive been busy working on the race car and my car is on hold at the moment until I work out what I want to do. Im heavily considering twin charging it....Simply for noise reduction and the new challenge.

Ive got a Mr turbo billet turbo at home which we had for the race car at one stage. Its a 900hp T76 somethingarather. So that coupled with the supercharger would make for something interesting surely!

The internal debate in my head is still going.....

Yeh it would have to be low mounted and further back then normal. I havent really done any proper measuring or checking yet. Just looked at it roughly by eye.

If I did do this it means, new custom exhaust manifold, new 4" exhaust, water/oil lines, moving or remaking the catch can, turbo intake, new turbo outlet to charger intake and plumbing up the meth injection system. Plus I gotta redo the supercharger drive system. Im pretty sure the belt is slipping a shit load. Im thinking change to gilmer drive instead of ribbed.

So thats a couple small things to consider!

Yeh it will no doubt add some whine. But aside from going to 8pk belt over the 6pk I have now, there arent too many other belt types and I dont have much room left to go further out for wider belts.

  • 1 month later...

Whats the go joe?

I'd love to see you get the best out of the sc set up before twin charging... After all the work that's gone into it, it would be a shame to not get the best out of it and see where it goes.

CHeers

Justin

Unfortunately nothing has progressed yet. Its been on hold while we are working on the race car. We're not allowed to work on more then one car at a time in the shed. Too easy to get bits n pieces mixed up and there isnt enough room.

I was considering trying to fix up the drive only and see where it goes, however the biggest problem at the moment is still the noise. My honest opinion is that twincharging it will cure that problem, atleast better then somekind of heavy duty airbox and another muffler/resonator or two. I really dont want to pull it all off and then have to do it all again.

Yeh you are right about the exhaust. I do have access to a big one that is probably around that size which is currently on the race car. But its the inlet noise thats number 1 on the list and what im mainly focused on.

The joys of modifications!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...